Loader capacity

[Cedarthal]

Wow, so much useful information. Thank to everyone who responded and helped me understand potential issues and solutions.

 

[not2old]

I've made some concrete "railway ties" for a landscaping project. They are heavier than my tractor will lift completely but I am able to lift one end and with a piece of pipe under the other, I am able to move them where I want. This included getting them off my flat deck trailer onto the ground. This might work for your hoist.

 

[Jaygyver]

Mine from around 15 yrs ago I believe was in a steel frame but I have seen them in a wooden crate before and mine came in a semi van. I did have an old 3000# cap forklift at the time. Read underneath what I did to do for your tractor.

I first had someone hold an old -good- pallet on its end and pulled the crate out as far as the edge of the truck and set the other end on the pallet. I was then able to lift the middle up level -above- the floor of the trailer, pulled the pallet away, then had the truck pull out and when it was cleared I lowered it down and was able to maneuver it to the shop.
Anything to get that end near the height of the trailer that's strong enough. You will probably need a strap/chain to help pull the skid back as it most likely will NOT pull easy. You're only caring half the weight but you're -pulling- all the weight. Make sure it stays on the forks.

I really don't think you'll be able to lift in the middle when crated using the pallet method or if it's still bundled together, especially without a 600 or 700 lbs counter balance and wouldn't suggest it as if you go to all that trouble and can't lift the whole thing then it was a waste of time and have to start over again. If you do it that way and it won't work then you will need to use a strap/chain to lift the end off the pallet to lower it onto the ground because it will slide off the forks when lowering it because of the angle.
But you should be able to do it with the individual long uprights that way. In fact you may be able to just slide both the posts onto the forks if you can disassemble or if it came in a crate.

If is in a steel frame or full wooden crate then you can sit the one end on the ground and you should be able to lift the trailer end up just enough to clear the floor so the driver can drive away then you can lower it down. If the truck does come with a lift gate then all you have to do is pull it out far enough to go on the lift gate, set the end on the ground, and they will lower the gate down.

If you still can't lift the trailer end of the crate off the trailer floor (but you should be able to) DO NOT have the driver drive away thinking the tractor will hold it, especially if you don't have a real counter balance. If the crate end is too heavy to lift off the trailer floor it will add a few hundred more pounds all at once when it clears the edge and it WILL tip the tractor. Tip it forward if you're lucky and worse case, sideways if the end gets caught on the lip of the floor.
Remember, the higher you go the less you can lift on a tractor. If the whole crate was on the ground you might be able to lift the crate up a bit but not be able to lift it when it's already 4 or 5 feet off the ground.

Think of a a plan of action AND a back up plan as the truck driver will probably have other deliveries on his truck so you don't want to hold them up too much. In case it does come in a full wooden crate then have a crowbar/hammer available if it's too heavy to lift as a whole. And have a couple of straps on hand also. Probably a couple guys to supervise, I mean help out.

DO NOT -drive- with any heavy load higher then a few inches off the ground, also make sure the forks are rotated all the way back (depending on the load) as that will bring the center of gravity back closer to the pivot points. (and will also put some weight back onto the rear tires, more so on forklifts anyway.)

Did it that way for 45+ years driving a truck and never had a problem. Common sense is a huge factor in that. And no you can't use the pallet way with a #5000 I-beam.

 

[bridge4]

Wow, so much useful information. Thank to everyone who responded and helped me understand potential issues and solutions.

So did it work!

 

[CoyPatton]

You give a lifting capacity at the pivot pins—an absolutely useless location, which a lot of mfg provide as it gives a higher lift capacity. If you check out your loader specs or break out a tape measure you will find this is roughly 20” from the leading edge of your bucket. Assuming the delivery driver is willing to allow your buddy the time to separate pieces and it is on flat deck trailer where you can gain access from the sides, you might lift it in sections using slings hooked at the closest to the frame. Ballast is your friend when lifting with the loader. A blade that weighs roughly what your PHD foes but hanging further back from the tractor will provide more ballast.

 

[henerythe8th]

Some words of wisdom from someone who has both a 10,000# fork lift and a small CS2220 with pallet forks and a max lift capacity of around 600lbs.

On solid ground the fork lift is more forgiving, but the 4WD CS can get into places the fork lift will just get stuck/bogged.

We lift lots of odd sized/weighted objects and each one is always different.

Don't be in a hurry! Think things thru.

1) If your lifting an odd size/weighted object off a trailer - find/figure out the center pivot point. If you are using a sling over a bucket make sure it is secure and won't slip. Pallet forks are always better than a bucket. Tie a long rope on one end of the object to be lifted and have a spotter hold the rope to stop sway and/or rotation.

2) When you think you have the sling correct to balance the odd load, test by lifting 1inch. Keep the engine rpm at ~2000. If it is not balanced, lower and adjust the sling points. Use welding clamps to ensure the sling points (and on the bucket) won't shift/slip. Once you have it balanced and 1 inch off the trailer, set the parking brake and gear to neutral...........and GENTLY move to get off the tractor seat and off the tractor. If your weight on the tractor seat is the only thing that keeps the load stable, rethink your tractor rear ballast. It needs to be stable without you in the seat.

3) Before you attempt to remove the load from the trailer. Have mental plan for your tractors movements to get the load to its destination. Make sure all obstacles have been cleared and resting blocks are pre-placed at the destination to set the load down on.

4) Move very slowly with front wheels straight to get the load off the trailer. As soon as it is safe gently lower the load closer to the ground. Keep it just high enough to not hit anything.

5) Move slowly and minimize turning. Moving slowly back and forward to turn slowly is better than cranking the steering wheel.

6) Arrange the unloading zone to be on level, even and firm ground. Putting a front wheel in a small pot hole when near the load limit can tip you and the load.

Think it thru, make sure it feels stable, move slowly with no sharp turns/movements.

Check air pressure in the tires (before is better ;-) ).

Good advice!


Another thing to consider is infringement the load and driving the trailer our trom under it.

 

[candovt]

With my Kioti CK25/30 and loader KL130, I want to help my neighbor unload a new car lift that weighs 1350 pounds. As long as I keep the load low to the ground, I’m hoping it will work out OK. The loader manual says lift capacity to full height at pivot points is 1155 pounds but breakout force at pivot pounds is 2046 pounds. My rear tires do have ballast.
Will I be OK lifting a 1350 pound load?

If you can remove your front implement (quick attach?) it will allow for rated lift. Using straps from each side of attachment point on boom down to a 4’ wide balance area on the load. Try lifting not sliding load just enough to clear trailer. Then drive trailer out from under load, lower load enough to clear ground and deliver driving up any incline slowly. Be ready to lower load to ground at any time. If you can’t lift load initially then don’t go any further.

 

[Gord Baker]

With my Kioti CK25/30 and loader KL130, I want to help my neighbor unload a new car lift that weighs 1350 pounds. As long as I keep the load low to the ground, I’m hoping it will work out OK. The loader manual says lift capacity to full height at pivot points is 1155 pounds but breakout force at pivot pounds is 2046 pounds. My rear tires do have ballast.
Will I be OK lifting a 1350 pound load?

If it is on a flat bet, Park it close to the building and lift it only a couple inches and pull the trailer out from underneath it without moving the load. Then lower it close to the ground for positioning.

 

[S854]

…Will I be OK lifting a 1350 pound load?

Where did this number come from? Product website? Shippers manifest?

I recently bought a 295# set of pallet forks which were delivered strapped to a 45# oak pallet. Which resulted in:

Implement weight = 295#

Shipping weight = 340#

One more thing to consider if you think you’re close to max lift capacity.

 

[kmesr9]

Some words of wisdom from someone who has both a 10,000# fork lift and a small CS2220 with pallet forks and a max lift capacity of around 600lbs.

On solid ground the fork lift is more forgiving, but the 4WD CS can get into places the fork lift will just get stuck/bogged.

We lift lots of odd sized/weighted objects and each one is always different.

Don't be in a hurry! Think things thru.

1) If your lifting an odd size/weighted object off a trailer - find/figure out the center pivot point. If you are using a sling over a bucket make sure it is secure and won't slip. Pallet forks are always better than a bucket. Tie a long rope on one end of the object to be lifted and have a spotter hold the rope to stop sway and/or rotation.

2) When you think you have the sling correct to balance the odd load, test by lifting 1inch. Keep the engine rpm at ~2000. If it is not balanced, lower and adjust the sling points. Use welding clamps to ensure the sling points (and on the bucket) won't shift/slip. Once you have it balanced and 1 inch off the trailer, set the parking brake and gear to neutral...........and GENTLY move to get off the tractor seat and off the tractor. If your weight on the tractor seat is the only thing that keeps the load stable, rethink your tractor rear ballast. It needs to be stable without you in the seat.

3) Before you attempt to remove the load from the trailer. Have mental plan for your tractors movements to get the load to its destination. Make sure all obstacles have been cleared and resting blocks are pre-placed at the destination to set the load down on.

4) Move very slowly with front wheels straight to get the load off the trailer. As soon as it is safe gently lower the load closer to the ground. Keep it just high enough to not hit anything.

5) Move slowly and minimize turning. Moving slowly back and forward to turn slowly is better than cranking the steering wheel.

6) Arrange the unloading zone to be on level, even and firm ground. Putting a front wheel in a small pot hole when near the load limit can tip you and the load.

Think it thru, make sure it feels stable, move slowly with no sharp turns/movements.

Check air pressure in the tires (before is better ;-) ).

I agree with everything said here except the pallet forks comment. Pallet forks on a tractor are great for light loads but same as a forklift, the farther the load is from COG the less stable you are and lifting a load like the OP is talking about could be catastrophic if it even got off the ground. If it were me I’d strap or chain the load under the bucket as tight as I could and test lift it. If the rear tires bounce a little then slow and steady back off the bed/trailer and lower to about 10-12” off the ground and move slowly to where it gets placed, put dunnage user to remove step or chain and remove. If the tires don’t bounce you’re good to go but use the same logic, low and slow. If the rear end comes up, don’t proceed and find an alternative.

 

[Aquabird]

Just hope your front axle holds up.

 

[Mcdust]

With my Kioti CK25/30 and loader KL130, I want to help my neighbor unload a new car lift that weighs 1350 pounds. As long as I keep the load low to the ground, I’m hoping it will work out OK. The loader manual says lift capacity to full height at pivot points is 1155 pounds but breakout force at pivot pounds is 2046 pounds. My rear tires do have ballast.
Will I be OK lifting a 1350 pound load?

Why dont you unpack it and do it piece by piece? No sweat, no stress for you or machine

 

[Jaygyver]

Two things on a tractor, the higher the loader goes the lower the cap gets, and even if you use a strap at the pins the loader is also that much higher than the load to begin with so you're still at a disadvantage, just less so. Just the way they are.

Suggestion and caveats for a ballast box.
Be aware tho, they probably won't be cat 1 pins, 98% chance they will be Cat 0 so you will have to get the pin adapters. Or drill out the holes larger for Cat 1 pins. Measure the width between the brackets so you don't get too wide of ones. Top and or bottom.
The two I have were Cat 0 contrary to what it said and it may not be QA compatible as the top-link pin bracket holds the pin too close to the box so the hook won't fit in-between. They do make a top link adapter that extends the pins so it will fit tho.
Also, if you clean ditch's or similar make sure you get a box that has the -lowest- mounted pins so you can lift the box up far enough to clear the road when your going out the other side. Found that out the hard way. And remember to lower it back down near the ground for normal work so it doesn't mess up the center of gravity. Most of them have a slot for a hitch and have cutouts for forks. The only reason I got the one with the lower door was so it would be easier to dump the river rock I had in it if I wanted to change out the ballast.

Not sure why you would have to worry about the front axle if you're at or near the rated cap of the loader?
Either the relief valve will kick in trying to lift it from the ground or the pump just won't be able to lift it at that height. It's not like you'd be able to drive 70 mph across a field.

 

[Jaygyver]

Why dont you unpack it and do it piece by piece? No sweat, no stress for you or machine

For one, it ask's you in the delivery instructions if you have the equipment to take it off the truck, either a dock or the equipment to take it off in a -"reasonable amount of time"-.

The other is because it's up to the driver on how long they will wait.

Some are "Richard Heads" and others are great about it.
If they can't wait then they will either tell you to pick it up at their dock or bill you for a second delivery if they have to come back out.

Some of the drivers get paid by the mile and others by the hour and even then if they have more deliveries then they will have the company on their ass to get them done.

That's why I recommended to have a couple extra hands to make it that much faster to get it off if it can be broke down.

 

[I Piddle]

With my Kioti CK25/30 and loader KL130, I want to help my neighbor unload a new car lift that weighs 1350 pounds. As long as I keep the load low to the ground, I’m hoping it will work out OK. The loader manual says lift capacity to full height at pivot points is 1155 pounds but breakout force at pivot pounds is 2046 pounds. My rear tires do have ballast.
Will I be OK lifting a 1350 pound load?

Do try to lift the load off the truck. If you can lift the load on the truck. Pull the truck out and lower the load.

 

[I Piddle]

that should have read. Do not try to lift the load off the truck. If you can lift the load on the truck. Pull the truck out and lower the load.

 

[eightytwenty]

As was said above, these lifts are bundled with fork slots on the end. For a 1400# gross weight lift (4post?) @20' long, you need a 5000# hiester. Leverage is a ***** sometimes.

Take it apart and move the posts and runways separately. I received and unloaded an 1800# gross lift this way, piece by piece... with a Kubota 2300D. It's like 16 - 1/2" bolts to it undo it completely. Moving the runways was sketchy, I picked one end up, moved the truck, then lowered the other end. From there, used forks on the 3pt inches above the ground to position them in front of the garage... And furniture dollies from there.

I have 400# at the pins, your machine is bigger, but not big enough to take the whole bundle at once, even unsafely.

 

[4570Man]

For one, it ask's you in the delivery instructions if you have the equipment to take it off the truck, either a dock or the equipment to take it off in a -"reasonable amount of time"-.

The other is because it's up to the driver on how long they will wait.

Some are "Richard Heads" and others are great about it.
If they can't wait then they will either tell you to pick it up at their dock or bill you for a second delivery if they have to come back out.

Some of the drivers get paid by the mile and others by the hour and even then if they have more deliveries then they will have the company on their ass to get them done.

That's why I recommended to have a couple extra hands to make it that much faster to get it off if it can be broke down.

If you used some slings and set off one of the main upright beams the tractor should have no problem picking up the rest. That’s like a 5 minute process. If you need to drive to the hardware store to buy some slings and then get back and fuel up the tractor then yea they’re probably going to complain about that. If you have some tools to bust apart the crate if needed and the slings ready to go then they won’t have any problems.

 

[Mirage276]

For one, it ask's you in the delivery instructions if you have the equipment to take it off the truck, either a dock or the equipment to take it off in a -"reasonable amount of time"-.

The other is because it's up to the driver on how long they will wait.

Some are "Richard Heads" and others are great about it.
If they can't wait then they will either tell you to pick it up at their dock or bill you for a second delivery if they have to come back out.

Some of the drivers get paid by the mile and others by the hour and even then if they have more deliveries then they will have the company on their ass to get them done.

That's why I recommended to have a couple extra hands to make it that much faster to get it off if it can be broke down.

When I ran LTL p&d I'd average 8-14 deliveries and 6-10 pickup stops a day, I couldn't afford to wait an hour for one stop that is in all reality a non repeat non revenue customer. I often ran an extra 48' liftgate route and did lots of house deliveries and appreciated the guys with Bobcats or tractors with forks.

 

[John_Mc]

For one, it ask's you in the delivery instructions if you have the equipment to take it off the truck, either a dock or the equipment to take it off in a -"reasonable amount of time"-.

The alternative to all of this is to find a business or farm (or friend) with the appropriate equipment to unload and have it delivered there. You can then either break up the package into pieces you can handle there, or have them load it on a trailer for you and you can bring it home and break it up there. I've done that on occasion when something I buy offers a better shipping rate for delivering to a business address (or refuses to deliver at all to a residential address, regardless of what equipment you have.)