Mcdust
Bronze Member
Why dont you unpack it and do it piece by piece? No sweat, no stress for you or machine
Jaygyver
Silver Member
Two things on a tractor, the higher the loader goes the lower the cap gets, and even if you use a strap at the pins the loader is also that much higher than the load to begin with so you're still at a disadvantage, just less so. Just the way they are.
Suggestion and caveats for a ballast box.
Be aware tho, they probably won't be cat 1 pins, 98% chance they will be Cat 0 so you will have to get the pin adapters. Or drill out the holes larger for Cat 1 pins. Measure the width between the brackets so you don't get too wide of ones. Top and or bottom.
The two I have were Cat 0 contrary to what it said and it may not be QA compatible as the top-link pin bracket holds the pin too close to the box so the hook won't fit in-between. They do make a top link adapter that extends the pins so it will fit tho.
Also, if you clean ditch's or similar make sure you get a box that has the -lowest- mounted pins so you can lift the box up far enough to clear the road when your going out the other side. Found that out the hard way. And remember to lower it back down near the ground for normal work so it doesn't mess up the center of gravity. Most of them have a slot for a hitch and have cutouts for forks. The only reason I got the one with the lower door was so it would be easier to dump the river rock I had in it if I wanted to change out the ballast.
Not sure why you would have to worry about the front axle if you're at or near the rated cap of the loader?
Either the relief valve will kick in trying to lift it from the ground or the pump just won't be able to lift it at that height. It's not like you'd be able to drive 70 mph across a field.
Suggestion and caveats for a ballast box.
Be aware tho, they probably won't be cat 1 pins, 98% chance they will be Cat 0 so you will have to get the pin adapters. Or drill out the holes larger for Cat 1 pins. Measure the width between the brackets so you don't get too wide of ones. Top and or bottom.
The two I have were Cat 0 contrary to what it said and it may not be QA compatible as the top-link pin bracket holds the pin too close to the box so the hook won't fit in-between. They do make a top link adapter that extends the pins so it will fit tho.
Also, if you clean ditch's or similar make sure you get a box that has the -lowest- mounted pins so you can lift the box up far enough to clear the road when your going out the other side. Found that out the hard way. And remember to lower it back down near the ground for normal work so it doesn't mess up the center of gravity. Most of them have a slot for a hitch and have cutouts for forks. The only reason I got the one with the lower door was so it would be easier to dump the river rock I had in it if I wanted to change out the ballast.
Not sure why you would have to worry about the front axle if you're at or near the rated cap of the loader?
Either the relief valve will kick in trying to lift it from the ground or the pump just won't be able to lift it at that height. It's not like you'd be able to drive 70 mph across a field.
Jaygyver
Silver Member
For one, it ask's you in the delivery instructions if you have the equipment to take it off the truck, either a dock or the equipment to take it off in a -"reasonable amount of time"-.
The other is because it's up to the driver on how long they will wait.
Some are "Richard Heads" and others are great about it.
If they can't wait then they will either tell you to pick it up at their dock or bill you for a second delivery if they have to come back out.
Some of the drivers get paid by the mile and others by the hour and even then if they have more deliveries then they will have the company on their ass to get them done.
That's why I recommended to have a couple extra hands to make it that much faster to get it off if it can be broke down.
I Piddle
Bronze Member
Do try to lift the load off the truck. If you can lift the load on the truck. Pull the truck out and lower the load.
I Piddle
Bronze Member
that should have read. Do not try to lift the load off the truck. If you can lift the load on the truck. Pull the truck out and lower the load.
eightytwenty
New member
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2019
- Messages
- 7
- Tractor
- Kubota
As was said above, these lifts are bundled with fork slots on the end. For a 1400# gross weight lift (4post?) @20' long, you need a 5000# hiester. Leverage is a ***** sometimes.
Take it apart and move the posts and runways separately. I received and unloaded an 1800# gross lift this way, piece by piece... with a Kubota 2300D. It's like 16 - 1/2" bolts to it undo it completely. Moving the runways was sketchy, I picked one end up, moved the truck, then lowered the other end. From there, used forks on the 3pt inches above the ground to position them in front of the garage... And furniture dollies from there.
I have 400# at the pins, your machine is bigger, but not big enough to take the whole bundle at once, even unsafely.
Take it apart and move the posts and runways separately. I received and unloaded an 1800# gross lift this way, piece by piece... with a Kubota 2300D. It's like 16 - 1/2" bolts to it undo it completely. Moving the runways was sketchy, I picked one end up, moved the truck, then lowered the other end. From there, used forks on the 3pt inches above the ground to position them in front of the garage... And furniture dollies from there.
I have 400# at the pins, your machine is bigger, but not big enough to take the whole bundle at once, even unsafely.
4570Man
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2015
- Messages
- 18,995
- Location
- Crossville, TN
- Tractor
- Kubota M59, Kubota L3800, Grasshopper 428D, Topkick dump truck, 3500 dump truck, 10 ton trailer, more lighter trailers.
If you used some slings and set off one of the main upright beams the tractor should have no problem picking up the rest. That’s like a 5 minute process. If you need to drive to the hardware store to buy some slings and then get back and fuel up the tractor then yea they’re probably going to complain about that. If you have some tools to bust apart the crate if needed and the slings ready to go then they won’t have any problems.
When I ran LTL p&d I'd average 8-14 deliveries and 6-10 pickup stops a day, I couldn't afford to wait an hour for one stop that is in all reality a non repeat non revenue customer. I often ran an extra 48' liftgate route and did lots of house deliveries and appreciated the guys with Bobcats or tractors with forks.
John_Mc
Elite Member
- Joined
- Aug 11, 2001
- Messages
- 4,675
- Location
- Monkton, Vermont
- Tractor
- NH TC33D Modified with belly pan, limb risers & FOPS. Honda Pioneer 520 & antique Coot UTV
The alternative to all of this is to find a business or farm (or friend) with the appropriate equipment to unload and have it delivered there. You can then either break up the package into pieces you can handle there, or have them load it on a trailer for you and you can bring it home and break it up there. I've done that on occasion when something I buy offers a better shipping rate for delivering to a business address (or refuses to deliver at all to a residential address, regardless of what equipment you have.)
