Hey Kent. To be sure we are on the same page (after review, my verbage was not as clear as it should be), there is a zerk behind the inspection plate that could be termed the throw-out zerk, MI Iron has a great tip for service of it.
The pencil points to a different - overlooked -- lube point. That would be the shaft / rod that has the throw / release bearing fork it attatched to. When you depress the clutch pedal, this shaft rotates and moves the throw-out / release forward via the fork.. The shaft / rod is captured in a bushing on each side of the trans casing, there is no zerk, but you can see the shaft end to where the pencil points. This shaft froze in that bushing on mine and caused clutch failure.
Re loose steering; my steering link had non-adjustable tie rods on each end. the tie rod boots were shot and the knuckle had severe wear due to the dirt intrusion and grease evacuation. I replaced the steering link -- about $80-- and all is good.
Doing the clutch myself saved me about $1000 + transportaion cost if needed both ways. I learned a lot, mostly that this is quick, easy, fast buckets of cash for a shop.
The pencil points to a different - overlooked -- lube point. That would be the shaft / rod that has the throw / release bearing fork it attatched to. When you depress the clutch pedal, this shaft rotates and moves the throw-out / release forward via the fork.. The shaft / rod is captured in a bushing on each side of the trans casing, there is no zerk, but you can see the shaft end to where the pencil points. This shaft froze in that bushing on mine and caused clutch failure.
Re loose steering; my steering link had non-adjustable tie rods on each end. the tie rod boots were shot and the knuckle had severe wear due to the dirt intrusion and grease evacuation. I replaced the steering link -- about $80-- and all is good.
Doing the clutch myself saved me about $1000 + transportaion cost if needed both ways. I learned a lot, mostly that this is quick, easy, fast buckets of cash for a shop.
