LK3054 Clutch & Splitting Help

[Ohming]

Hello, recently bought a 3054 with 300 hrs. The tractor barely moves. Checked the clutch linkage, thread color indicates the rod has been adjusted, linkage not bent. I even took the linkage off and at full engagement there is still no friction so I am assuming its time to split the tractor.

I have done extensive mechanics on vehicles, but not tractors. If someone out there has split this unit before / replaced the clutch, are there any tips to share? First time for everything, kinda lookin forward to getting greasy on this one.

 

[teg]

300 hours?!?! I can't help you with your tractor... but I can tell you a story that may or may not help.

Bought a backhoe from a farmer... we got to talking and said his TLB is going in the shop because it barely moves. We went over there and he would shift Forward and reverse and it barely moved. I asked about the other gear shifter... he never used that one. It was knocked out and it was either high/low or was 1,2,3 or 4th gear shifter. He put it in gear and was as good a new. I would look around a bit more.

 

[Ohming]

There is also a transport lever on commercial Toro mowers that wont allow it to move that can allow a cheap buy at auction.

Seems odd to me to for 300 hrs, but after extensive googling, it seems to be frighteningly common.

The tractor was a decent buy with a parts allowance though.

 

[bluechip]

Operating technique has more to do with clutch life than hours of use. the older LK3054 had a smaller clutch later models used a bigger clutch as does the LK30 that replaced the LK3054. Splitting is pretty straight forward. Anything that crosses the plane where the transmission belhousing attaches to the engine bellhousing must be disconnected. Put a wedge in the front axle at both sides to prevent the front end from pivoting. use 2 floor jacks on a smooth floor and slide the two parts away from each other. After you replace/repair you will need a way to line up 2 clutch disks, we use a NAPA universal alignment tool and it is amazing how easy it is to adapt to center the clutch disks. We use a special tool to rotate the PTO shaft to help alight the splines, but you can use half a driveline to do something similar. When disconnecting the hydraulic supply line from the pump, be ready to plug it or drain it or you will loose a lot of hyd. oil. Be sure to set up the 2 stage clutch properly. I cant think of much else and will qualify this by stating that I have supervised this job, I have not done it personally, so these are general remarks.

 

[Ohming]

Thanks Bluechip. Do you know if the larger disk from the LK30 will fit in the LK3054?

 

[Ohming]

Talked to a cluth reman shop. He offered an upgrade to a ceramic clutch plate (on the drive plate) for a small upcharge. If the clutch is the weak link on this machine, it may be a good option. Anyone ever had the ceramic?

 

[teg]

Don't know about clutches but I switched to ceramic brake pads and love the heck out of them... :ashamed: I know different item. 96 Dodge went through the factor brake pad set at 25k, I'm at 125k with ceramics and might need to check them again... last few times I checked they were still good. Would like to hear what anyone else say...

 

[MichiganIron]

The LK3054 is a 2 stage clutch. Be prepared to deal with the adjustment bolts between the first and second stage of the clutch pack. The head-out on these bolts (3) is critical for the clutch to operate correctly and not wear pre-maturely. It's just a matter of setting the head clearance properly and evenly with a feeler gauge. Make sure you lock-tite the adjustment bolts and the clutch mounting bolts. We also use RTV sealant between the bell housing and the engine. It really helps to keep moisture out of the clutch housing.

The alignment is probably the trickiest part since you have 2 clutch packs to align for re-assembly. Other than that, not a real bad job.

Check that throw-out bearing while you're in there.

 

[Ohming]

Thanks for the tips guys, I'll post up results when done.

 

[kenstrac]

The best way to align the 2 halves is what I do, I get long bolt or threaded rods long enough to line up before the shaft enters the clutch it slides in and self aligns it's self.

 

[Ohming]

Ok, I got her split and I think I found out why this tractor with 300 hrs has a worn out clutch.

After disconnecting the clutch linkage, I rotatated the cross shaft to allow the release bearing assy to come forward & out along the trans input shaft. But the shaft would hardly turn! I had to tap the linkage attachment cam lever with a hammer to get the shaft to rotate! Then I took a drift and hammer to the RH side and knocked the pin in to loosen it up. Several srayings of PB Blaster latter and a little lube, the shaft now rotates freely with the wieght of the release fork.

What happened is the previous owners let the tractor sit out in the weather and the pin was staring to rust into the rear bell housing. So when the clutch was engaged for operation, I doubt it ever fully engaged, it couldn't -- just like riding the clutch with a heavy foot. But this wasnt obvious when trying to operate the tractor.

Off to the rebuilder it goes today. The engine to bellhousing mating surface will have some RTV sealant when reassembled this time, what a rusty mees! Thinking of Kevlar for the drive disk, anyone ever tried it?

My LH brake pedal doesn't raise back up after my foot release, I have to pull it up by hand. Looks like I'll be tearing that apart as well.

 

[teg]

Do you have photos to post? This would be great to get documented for other members...

 

[MichKubota]

It's always nice when you not only fix the problem but discover the underlying root cause.

If clutch had been replaced in a shop you may never known the root cause. Or worse, the root cause may have not been fixed.

Great job. Thanks for sharing.

 

[JoelD]

Great thread

Sitting out in the weather is just never s good thing even just a tarp Can make a big difference

Joel

 

[KeithT]

There is a plate that can be removed on mine to grease some sort of shaft for the clutch. The manual also suggests locking the clutch in the disengaged position if it is going to sit for a while. I see why now....

Good luck, sounds like you have made a lot of progress already. -Keith

 

[Ohming]

Talked to the rebuilder today. The clutch was severly glazed, the PTO disk was not so worn but the drive disk was about at the rivets. He will reface the disks and do his magic on the assembly and hopefully have it to me by the weekend. I'll post up some pics when I reinstall.

 

[JoelD]

There is a plate that can be removed on mine to grease some sort of shaft for the clutch. The manual also suggests locking the clutch in the disengaged position if it is going to sit for a while. I see why now....

Good luck, sounds like you have made a lot of progress already. -Keith

I've removed the Cover on mine and there is no zerk that I can see manual says this is where I'd greese throw out beering

Joel

 

[Ohming]

Here is the grease point for the throw-out bearing, Actually, the bearing is sealed, the zerk will grease the input shaft that the slide bushing -- which holds the throw-out bearing -- slides on. The whole bushing with thow-out still attached is shown on my bench. You will see it when you remove the inspection plate and look to the rear. It will be an awkward reach.


The release bearing shaft lubrication point is shown by pencil point. That is the actual shaft end exposed, keep it lubed with a thin lube like chain lube that will protect from moisture. Especially if stored outdoors.

Reassembly was a bear. The only way it went back together was to lossen the clutch mounting bolts and retighten them after joinging the 2 halves. The picture shows doing so through the inpection plate.

Another pictute shows the front half. Look closely at the peice of scrap 3/4 oak wedged in between the top of the axle housing and the bottom of the engine. Do both sides before splitting.

 

[kentrodngun]

Hey Ohming - thanks for the pencil pic of the grease fitting. My manual (see attached) seems to indicate that the grease fitting is located behind the plate. I've removed the plate a couple of times and have never found it. Maybe I'll finally locate it now. Thanks.

My manual also shows an adjusting bolt to help eliminate excessive steering wheel play (which I have a lot of) above the fuel filter assembly at about 11 o'clock. I haven't been able to locate this either. Got a picture of this too?

When I replaced my engine, I too split the tractor and was going to replace the clutch plates & pads but it seems the previous owner beat me to it and I wound up returning the parts. Hey, even after the restocking fee & shipping I still pocketed almost $500. Sometimes you catch a break.

 

[MichiganIron]

Lock the clutch open (pedal lock). It moves the grease fitting so it is accessible, although still tough to get to. You can get at it, just not the easiest thing to reach.