Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,081  
The bushings on my Caroni appear to be nylon.

Thanks!

On the market, there are good expensive nylon and cheap lousy nylon, the price difference could be 10 : 1.

Do you know what nylon they are?

It's a question related to experience. Good nylon has better outlooking than cheap nylon, also different smell when you burn it. It's really difficult for me to tell you how to identify them by words here. So, you can search more on internet and watch more nylon by your eye close. Or talk with nylon manufacturer vendors, they will tell you more.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,082  
Both two side shift rails should be lubricated. Because although the shift rails have to be gavalized or chromed when manufactured, its surface will be worn out soon during working, then the shift rails surface will start oxidation(like rust), then this will wear the nylon of the shift rails faster.

The old style side shift flail mower doesn't need to lubricate the rails, they were like this: QQ图片20161223145956.jpg

After I got some feedback about nylon defect, so since two years ago, I produced my offset flail mower to be with the rails which need lubrication. It is easy, use the two tubes on the rails and drill holes for grease, just increase some production cost.IMG_3023.JPGIMG_3231_20180520110735.JPG
As the result, I got few nylon worn out feedback on the new model mowers in last two years.

First I have a question for those of you with side shift flails. Do you put any grease on the shift rails? I feel like I should be putting some type of lubricant on them, but there was nothing in the (terrible) caroni instructions.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,083  
thanks for the input Jack, fallon and all. I'll use some chain lube and see how that goes.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,084  
So my Woodmaxx FM62H got dropped off by the shipping Co last Tues and now Sunday got back home to finally get it mounted to the B26.
Stupid me after reading what StuartDK45SE posted about shearing off the grease nipples when adjusting the roller height, I go and do the same dang thing DUHhhh... oh well easy fix.
Shortened up the drive shaft by 3" (using a quick hitch as well), grease, oil into the gear box and add the ends for the hydraulic hoses to plug into the remote and a quick nip at some grass and I'm going to Love this thing. Goes to work Monday cutting a lawn that is in full overgrowth and lots of damdelions.
Going to say the B with 19pto hp is going to have no issues handling this flail short of trying to cut a jungle down.

Kitimat-Stikine B-20180527-04732 by richardktm300, on Flickr
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,085  
Having the same mower, I can tell ya you will love it! Mine came with grease already in so just cut the pto and went mowing. Oh ya, I too broke a nipple when lowering the roller. 19 pto HP will run that mower easily, mine sure does. Great photo!

Ricn
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,086  
As far adjusting the skids and the rear roller you can always leave it attached to the top link and the lower links and use a sandwich of 2 by 12's from the front of the mower to the rear edge of the shroud to raise it above the ground making 3 stacks of 2 by 12's or other lumber essentially a pad for it to rest on. It will shuffle around a little until the knife sets and shackles roll forward or back to allow the mower to rest on the dimensional wood sandwich.

Once you have the entire weight on the 2 by 12 sandwich while its still attached to the draft links you will have no problems adjusting the toy, er mowing implement, er flail mower, er forever mower in your stable.

Better to just glue and screw the wood together unless you have thick hardwood blocking to use otherwise

So leonz wrote this to Roy last July. I'd like to get this set up before the Caroni comes, so wondering what is the length of the "sandwich"? I'm assuming there is one "sandwich" that runs the width of the mower, but I could easily be wrong.

Second question -- StuartDK45SE and bkrgi had posted about the WoodMaxx design flaw that caused them to shear off the grease nipples when adjusting the roller height. Do I need to be careful about this with a Caroni?

Third question -- I'm planning on using it to mow both my fields and the lawn around my house. I'm thinking that I raise the roller for a shorter lawn cut and lower it for the less frequent field mowing. Suggestions on which roller hole I use for each situation?
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,087  
I run a Woodmaxx FM-62 on my BX2200. I use it to mow my lawn. I alternate between the MMM and the flail. Best investment I ever made.

The little BX2200 has more than enough power to run it mowing a lawn.

Also, the folks at Woodmaxx are awesome! I went there myself to pick it up. I was there, in and out in like 20 minutes.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,088  
With both my old Ford 917 (rear roller height adjustment welded solid years ago) & my new Peruzzo (havent messed with roller adjustment yet) I just put my hydraulic toplink in float & adjust mowing height with the 3pt. Generally you don't want the toplink doing anything support wise when mowing. That goes for a rotary and a flail. A toplink is only needed when lifting the mower. I'll occasionally lift & back or drive over heavy stuff while the mower is running, but generally the only time you need that toplink is transport. If it's supporting the mower while mowing its taking a lot of stress it doesn't need to & preventing the mower from articulating & following the contours of the ground.

Lots of old timers replaced their toplinks with chain. Still not a bad idea today.
 
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,089  
   / Let's talk flail mowers #5,090  
Looks good: had two hrs myself yesterday. So how does that quick hitch work for you? I want one! Same mower but on my L2501 and about the same hook up as yours.

Ricn
 

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