Flail Mower Let's talk flail mowers

[nova3930]

When I put my roller back in the last time, I dropped the height a notch. The old 917 cuts really well with it in that position. Short like a finish mower with not quite as good a cut.

I even managed to make it a whole cutting day without breaking the mower other than a lost blade....although I did break a stabilizer bar on the tractor

I've got a little more cutting to do before I stash it for the year, at which point I'm going to clean it up, empty the gear box and replace with 85w/140 gear oil.

 

[grey goose]

Well, I did it - and with no real-world experience either, just the knowledge you guys have shared in this mega-thread! Funnier still, I haven't even gotten my tractor delivered yet!

I found a used [well used] Befco H40 flail on our local craigslist. Drove out to look it over and was really hesitant because of the mods the owner did, but at $700, I just couldn't pass it up. The driveline cover is beat up but the cross bearings seemed good and there is no noise coming out of the rest of the bearings. There is plenty of oil in the gearbox. The 'Y' flails are worn but they look like there is plenty of material left to sharpen them. There was only one belt on it and that was dry-rotted.

The seller must have had serious problems with the factory roller because he engineered what looks to be a 6" oil field pipe on pillow blocks to replace it. Looks like it gives up any height adjustment for all that strength tho... We'll see come spring when I can test it.

Now, a question for the experts here:
> The top link connection has been welded to the front hitch support [see photos]. Will this prevent me from 'floating' the mower across uneven terrain? I still don't have a clear understanding of this mechanism so I guess I'll have to experiment a bit.

> The parts listing shows two versions of belts for this mower. Can anyone offer a clue as to how I can tell which 'version' I have? I haven't found a serial # yet either...

If anyone has a source for the operators manual for this beast, please PM me. I see I can get parts from German-Bliss. Are they any other trusted sources for parts?

Now at least I've got a winter project to keep me out of trouble.

Thanks to everyone for sharing all their experiences and advise in this forum!


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[IslandTractor]

Well, I did it - and with no real-world experience either, just the knowledge you guys have shared in this mega-thread! Funnier still, I haven't even gotten my tractor delivered yet!

I found a used [well used] Befco H40 flail on our local craigslist. Drove out to look it over and was really hesitant because of the mods the owner did, but at $700, I just couldn't pass it up. The driveline cover is beat up but the cross bearings seemed good and there is no noise coming out of the rest of the bearings. There is plenty of oil in the gearbox. The 'Y' flails are worn but they look like there is plenty of material left to sharpen them. There was only one belt on it and that was dry-rotted.

The seller must have had serious problems with the factory roller because he engineered what looks to be a 6" oil field pipe on pillow blocks to replace it. Looks like it gives up any height adjustment for all that strength tho... We'll see come spring when I can test it.

Now, a question for the experts here:
> The top link connection has been welded to the front hitch support [see photos]. Will this prevent me from 'floating' the mower across uneven terrain? I still don't have a clear understanding of this mechanism so I guess I'll have to experiment a bit.

> The parts listing shows two versions of belts for this mower. Can anyone offer a clue as to how I can tell which 'version' I have? I haven't found a serial # yet either...

If anyone has a source for the operators manual for this beast, please PM me. I see I can get parts from German-Bliss. Are they any other trusted sources for parts?

Now at least I've got a winter project to keep me out of trouble.

Thanks to everyone for sharing all their experiences and advise in this forum!

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View attachment 398773
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1) Wait for Leonz to reply
2) I think you could just use a chain rather than toplink if you want the mower to float. You can run it in the rigid position however. I think that for rough cutting the rigid position is fine. You'd like the float if you are trying to cut real evenly though.
3) I'm a bit concerned about the big open space between the roller and the body. The mower relies on recutting material to mulch properly. Not sure if that gap will interfere with recutting. If it does just weld a plate over it to close it.

 

[IslandTractor]

Well, I did it - and with no real-world experience either, just the knowledge you guys have shared in this mega-thread! Funnier still, I haven't even gotten my tractor delivered yet!

I found a used [well used] Befco H40 flail on our local craigslist. Drove out to look it over and was really hesitant because of the mods the owner did, but at $700, I just couldn't pass it up. The driveline cover is beat up but the cross bearings seemed good and there is no noise coming out of the rest of the bearings. There is plenty of oil in the gearbox. The 'Y' flails are worn but they look like there is plenty of material left to sharpen them. There was only one belt on it and that was dry-rotted.

The seller must have had serious problems with the factory roller because he engineered what looks to be a 6" oil field pipe on pillow blocks to replace it. Looks like it gives up any height adjustment for all that strength tho... We'll see come spring when I can test it.

Now, a question for the experts here:
> The top link connection has been welded to the front hitch support [see photos]. Will this prevent me from 'floating' the mower across uneven terrain? I still don't have a clear understanding of this mechanism so I guess I'll have to experiment a bit.

> The parts listing shows two versions of belts for this mower. Can anyone offer a clue as to how I can tell which 'version' I have? I haven't found a serial # yet either...

If anyone has a source for the operators manual for this beast, please PM me. I see I can get parts from German-Bliss. Are they any other trusted sources for parts?

Now at least I've got a winter project to keep me out of trouble.

Thanks to everyone for sharing all their experiences and advise in this forum!

View attachment 398779
View attachment 398770
View attachment 398773
View attachment 398778

1) Wait for Leonz to reply
2) I think you could just use a chain rather than toplink if you want the mower to float. You can run it in the rigid position however. I think that for rough cutting the rigid position is fine. You'd like the float if you are trying to cut real evenly though.
3) I'm a bit concerned about the big open space between the roller and the body. The mower relies on recutting material to mulch properly. Not sure if that gap will interfere with recutting. If it does just weld a plate over it to close it.

 

[Reg]

Yes, I think that welded top link will limit your ability to float it.
Not necessarily a BAD thing though, floating it over humps or through dips that are too severe can be BAD.
{Unless/until you get good at timing your 3 pt lift height adjustments just before & after the humps and dips}

You could probably cut those welds out (I would) or use an hydraulic top link with a float detent (I probably wouldn't).

I think I would wait and see how the geometry works out when you have the tractor available to hook it up to.
If that top link is as long as I think it is you won't have room for a regular top link (as WELL).

At a guess the former owner welded it up because it kept loosening up and falling apart- nylok nuts might have fixed that.

 

[Reg]

Second thoughts, it isn't a top link, it is a bracket TO the top link.
It is fairly upright, a regular top link should fit into it without a length issue.

 

[Halftrack]

The welded top link is probably a modification I would have made to this flail mower. If you look at the 917 Ford flails, you fine tune the cutting height with the top link, longer cuts higher, shorter cuts lower. Look at it as though the flail rotor is hanging between the rear wheels and the rear roller. Your mower with the altered roller (further back) will tend to scalp more do to the distance between the rotor and roller. The main reason to take the lift arms out of the height adjustment is the single point top link allows the mower to rock left and right to follow ground contours.

 

[leonz]

Well, I did it - and with no real-world experience either, just the knowledge you guys have shared in this mega-thread! Funnier still, I haven't even gotten my tractor delivered yet!

I found a used [well used] Befco H40 flail on our local craigslist. Drove out to look it over and was really hesitant because of the mods the owner did, but at $700, I just couldn't pass it up. The driveline cover is beat up but the cross bearings seemed good and there is no noise coming out of the rest of the bearings. There is plenty of oil in the gearbox. The 'Y' flails are worn but they look like there is plenty of material left to sharpen them. There was only one belt on it and that was dry-rotted.

The seller must have had serious problems with the factory roller because he engineered what looks to be a 6" oil field pipe on pillow blocks to replace it. Looks like it gives up any height adjustment for all that strength tho... We'll see come spring when I can test it.

Now, a question for the experts here:
> The top link connection has been welded to the front hitch support [see photos]. Will this prevent me from 'floating' the mower across uneven terrain? I still don't have a clear understanding of this mechanism so I guess I'll have to experiment a bit.

> The parts listing shows two versions of belts for this mower. Can anyone offer a clue as to how I can tell which 'version' I have? I haven't found a serial # yet either...

If anyone has a source for the operators manual for this beast, please PM me. I see I can get parts from German-Bliss. Are they any other trusted sources for parts?

Now at least I've got a winter project to keep me out of trouble.

Thanks to everyone for sharing all their experiences and advise in this forum!

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View attachment 398773
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Mule or no Mule in the stable you are now member of the Flail Mower Nations.

Your going ot have to experiment with the cut to see if you are happy with it as is.

Please upload a picture of the flail mower rotor and exposed pulleys when you have a minute.

Remove the V belt guard and you will have direct access to the drive and driven pulleys.

You can get a manual from the Befco main office folks in the carolinas for your mower.

I believe the replacement side slicer blades will cost you less than the trouble of grinding
them for now as you have no idea what he was mowing and how fast )(*&^%^&*(.
(I have the same 34 year old rear roller on my flail mower)

As you have examined the side slicer blades-I would order new ones from Flail Master.


IF you want to keep it you can add a front set of pneumatic caster wheels to keep the mower cutting level
at one mowing height BUT that would increase the potential for deer ticks and......................................

IT would keep the knives out of the sod/rocks if you did that but the rear roller business make me wonder how badly he really treated that thing.

You can always get original replacement parts from a Befco authorised dealer.
If you take this mower under your wing it would be a good way to understand how the flail mower works.

When you start mowing your going to find it will not cut very well as the mower will not be able to create high suction
(pressure gradient) to aid in slicing and lifting the cuttings up and over the flail mower rotor.


Please post more pictures when you have time.

 

[erda]

So, just trying to figure out a few things. Does a flail mower 'use' as much power as a rotary mower (bush hog)? Also, there seems to be a huge difference in price between some of the brands. Is there a 'substantive' difference?
Thanks.

 

[erda]

double post