Any details on the thunderbolt scratch setup? I have the same welder and have been contimplating doing this. Thanks!
Very simple set-up
1 Argon tank for shielding gas
1 Tig torch with collet to hold tungsten electrode. 3/32" electrode is a good choice.
1 conductive tig torch hose to connect to torch.
These can be bought as a kit.
Check EBAY and they are usually found for a low price.
1 bulkhead connector to join the torch hose to the shielding gas hose.
1 piece of non-conductive hose to supply shielding gas to bulkhead.
DC polarity is the set-up for carbon steel and stainless steel.
Negative lead to electrode holder which is clamped to the bulkhead and makes the torch negative.
Posative to the ground clamp.
Turn on argon
A scratch start gets the arc going.
Feed or dip your filer rod and work the weld puddle with your torch.
A flick lift of the torch to stop the arc. You must return the torch to the weld momentarily to provide argon until the weld puddle cools for a few seconds.
Stopping requires a little practice so you don't restart the arc for the post flow of argon during cooling.
You'll catch on.
Adjust your heat as normal.
I can give you tips on grinding or sharpening the tungsten later if you wish.
The second purge is basically for stainless.
when welding stainless, usually it require a purge on the back side of the weld. thinner material stainles will suger out if oxygen is present in the weld.
A black crusty deformation is a way to explain what it looks like.
Stainless pipe is usually pluged with a rubber or lead cork with a hole in the center of the cork.
A tube with the argon is fed thru the hole in the cork.
the other end of the pipe is plugged lightly with a piece of steel wool.
turn the second purge on before you start to weld and purge the inside of the stainless pipe to remove oxygen.
A piece of fiberglass welding blanket can be put on the back side of the weld to stop oxygen from comming in contact with the weld area also.
copper plate will work too.
If you have questions don't hesitate to ask.
