Landscape Rake Build

[GuglioLS]

Oh boy here we go.............





Well it works better than expected. At least I'm impressed. I got a little over 45* so some sort of a stop at the bottom of the die should allow for more precise bends. Thank you Renze for the idea of using C channel to make a die. The anvil is not too shabby either. Check out these close up's of the bend.....




With this setup I should be able to accurately bend up to 1/2 thick by 3" wide flat bar for the TPH mount on the Rake project. Maybe I'll get to that by mid week?


Larry

 

[mjncad]

MJ-

Oh man that is nice stuff, super tough too. Thanks for all that detailed info and the links. I'll check to see what's available in Albuquerque. I'm a couple weeks off for sure.
Larry

You're welcome Larry. The press break did a nice job on the bend, and I'd bet you could get tighter bends with the metal heated up; but that would require building alignment tabs onto the die to be able to accurately position the hot metal.. Now if I only had your tool collection, I could expand my capabilities, or at least try.

 

[GuglioLS]

MJ- thanks or the kind words, at first I thought no way was the press going to bend that metal bar like butter.

Here is a pic of the TPH mounting arms, not sure what the correct technical term for those two pieces are. In any-event those are what need to be bent on the press. Please someone let me know if the geometry look correct for a TPH? Any suggestions before I start cutting, drilling, milling a radii at the top link, then bending?





Larry

 

[3RRL]

Wow, very cool Larry.
A lot of work for the anvil and die, but they sure work great. That crazy Dutchman must know his stuff! hahaha.
The geometry looks good to me, but you can check it with the Standards of 3pt hitch categories, but I'm sure you've already done that.
Great stuff Larry!
Rob-

 

[GuglioLS]

Wow, very cool Larry.
A lot of work for the anvil and die, but they sure work great. That crazy Dutchman must know his stuff! hahaha.
The geometry looks good to me, but you can check it with the Standards of 3pt hitch categories, but I'm sure you've already done that.
Great stuff Larry!
Rob-

Hey thanks Rob, I appreciate your Dutch Indonesian input, yea, gotta love those crazy Dutchmen. Thanks for the TPH standards link, I double checked the dimensions, plus measured a few of my store bought TPH stuff as a comparison. I think it's OK to go ahead and cut those pieces and make them per the drawing. When drilling out two identical pieces, do you stack them and drill through both at the same time? or drill each separately?

Larry

 

[mjncad]

Hey thanks Rob, I appreciate your Dutch Indonesian input, yea, gotta love those crazy Dutchmen. Thanks for the TPH standards link, I double checked the dimensions, plus measured a few of my store bought TPH stuff as a comparison. I think it's OK to go ahead and cut those pieces and make them per the drawing. When drilling out two identical pieces, do you stack them and drill through both at the same time? or drill each separately?

Larry

Do you use a Quick-Hitch? Regardless of whether you do or not, allow a little slop spacing in case the manufacturers of your implements didn't adhere to the standards as well as you intend to.

I stack and drill to save setup time, and I find it more accurate that way. I've started to drill a small (3/8" to 1/2" dia.) hole depending on thickness on the back side of one piece and plug weld the parts together before cutting and drilling begins. Then I drill out the plug welds as the last major machining step. I did something similar here minus the plug welds. Picasa Web Albums - Matt - King Kutter K...

Matt

 

[3RRL]

When drilling out two identical pieces, do you stack them and drill through both at the same time? or drill each separately?
Hi Larry,
For tractor projects, I too stack them to save set-up time. After all, how close does it have to be?
For exact locations, I pre-drill them separately in a precision vise set up with stops. The pieces are ground square and parallel first and then indicated in to insure exact positioning, then bore to size. This insures location and counters drill walk off and over cut.
If your pieces are not exactly square and parallel, and/or the head is not dead square to the table, going through stacked pieces can result in the top piece being off location from the bottom one. The more pieces you drill though, the bigger the difference can be from top to bottom.
For what you're doing, I wouldn't sweat it though.

Hey Matt, I saw your machined parts ... they look great. Excellent work there.

 

[Renze]

Larry,

thanks for the compliment... I used this method only the redneck way, on a pipe bender with all sorts of scrap metal
I didnt have time to put the 32 ton bottle jack i bought a year ago, into a frame to use it as a workshop press like you have... and then i'd have to collect several sizes of standardised UNP profiles to use as dies... 7 or 8 times the sheet thickness... means i need dies from UNP 40, UNP 50, UNP 60, UNP 80, UNP 100 to bend most flatbar of common farm sizes.

For thin sheetmetal i can use the brake press at work, you cant get the die-and-C-channel trick to work accurate enough for 3 to 6mm sheetmetal. Anyways for half inch flatbar, most shops dont have the dies anyways, and a little misalignment isnt a big problem on only a narrow bend line.

I'm jealous, and i do need a decent shop press...

 

[mjncad]

Thanks Rob, I appreciate the compliments. Now if I only had space and money for a lathe, and a mill, and a gas torch, and, and, and...