Land plane dimensions

[Yamezz]

I've previously built a land plane for my X495, which is 1,310mm wide x 1,500mm long. I want to build a bigger one for my JD3720. All the ones I can see, regardless of their width, are quite short. Tell me why I shouldn't build one 1,625mm wide (the rear track of my machine) x at least 1,800mm. The rear of 3 blades on my current one is at the rear of the plane, and I would do the same on the new one. I figure the longer the blade span, the flatter I will get my road (without small undulations).
Why are store-bought planes so short?

 

[bcp]

I've wondered that, too.

An exception: Priefert used to sell one that was about 7 feet long. I don't know if they made it, or some else did.



Bruce

 

[oosik]

My Land Pride GS2584 is short and wide also. Only reason I can think - saves on materials - customers don't realize that longer will work better - shorter gets the overall size down so it "fits" smaller tractors.

If my Land Pride were 7 feet long plus its already 7 feet wide - that's a h e l l of a lot of swinging weight out back. Could also relate to overall clearance issues and potential damage to the 3-point system.

Who knows - ??? It is what it is.

 

[Fallon]

The longer it is the less contour it can adapt to. So effectively longer = smoother & flatter. But at some point material cost outweighs the extra smoothing. I assume the OEMs thing that length works well enough for most use cases.

My LandPride is around 5' long. Works well. I'm sure longer would make things flatter, but it works just fine for driveway maintnance stuff. Haven't used it for land leveling. Have a berm I made a long time ago I need to smooth out s bit. Need to throw the LPGS at it one of these days.

 

[Yamezz]

So, I've built my new plane. Some info and pictures, to show either what to do :thumbsup: or what not to do! :thumbdown: depending on your point of view

It's 1,625mm wide overall and 1,800mm long (plus the upturned ends). The skids are bulit from 2 metre lengths of 180x75mm galvanised PFC. The tube frame is 50x4mm galvanised SHS. The blades are 75x6mm mild steel angle, set at a 10 degree angle for the first two. I was going to use stainless angle, but it was going to be three times the price. The blades are bolted to angle iron carriers, so they can be mounted either on top of the carriers (as per currently, where the blades do not protrude below the skids) or underneath the carriers, giving just under 20mm of protrusion below the skids.
Total weight is 163kg. It was built for my 3720, but my X495 just manages it too.

 

[Bigpuddie]

Looks very nice. Good job. ^^^

 

[Fallon]

How did you galvanize it? Or was the raw material galvanized before you got it? Know it can be very unhealthy to weld.

 

[Yamezz]

It was galv stock. Oh yeah, smokes and spit 'n sparks and carries on when you weld it. The tube is OK, but the PFC is awful, even after grinding it back a bit.

 

[gillesdumais]

how did it work finally. i changed my L2501 for MX6000 so my homemade grader is 60'' wide by 60'' long and new tractor coming 73'' . So i have to build another one. i was planning to build like your with grader blade in the middle. dimension planned 74'' wide by 72'' long or 78'' long for leveling my land for seedling grasse eventually. what would you recommend me for dimension and other innovations ?

 

[Yamezz]

What would you recommend me for dimension and other innovations ?

I think the longer you make the plane the better, if your intention is to grade the flattest you can. The features I find valuable are:

* An adequate supporting surface to stop the blade sinking too far in soft soil. I used PFC in my last build to help spread the weight of the plane and on my first build I added angle iron 'wings' to the tube frame to help support the plane. Too little support and the plane can fill up like a box blade, requiring constant input to the height of the plane to get a smooth surface. I have built three planes over the years, all with three 'blades', so I don't know if the above is an issue with single-blade planes. Perhaps others can offer their experience.

* Angled leading and trailing edges to prevent digging in. Having angled edges on both ends allows the plane to be pushed or pulled and glide over an unexpected root. I promptly busted the first plane I built as I snagged on a root just below the surface.

* A frame to enable the plane to be maneuvered with the FEL bucket. This allows you to quickly do a small job without having to change 3-point implements. It's also useful to move the plane and transport it. Often I will drive the tractor to a job with the box blade on the rear and the plane on the bucket.

* The frame also allows you to add weight to the plane when needed. I find the weight of the plane alone is enough to use in soft soil, but extra weight is sometimes needed in the first couple of passes over a compacted driveway.

It looks like you have the last point covered in the photo you posted.