Backhoe L5412 Price
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rbargeron
Elite Member
$6900 CAD (5300 US) is actually reasonable-to-low for what it is. The L5412 is made by Bradco (google Bradco 611 or 11HD, also related posts). Its a heavy duty unit with long reach, jacketed hoses, large cylinders, spherical replaceable bushings, big rods with thick chrome plating. The original well-fitted subframe is with it (very hard to find). The compact chain-swing allows close-tucked transport - there's still some front end weight for back-dragging. If you're in the market for a BH for your L5450 this is a lucky find. If I didn't already have one I'd be all over it. BTW, to me it doesn't look rough - the paint is sun-faded but the pics show no damage or signs of leaks or repairs. Probably lived on a farm or homestead and rarely used. Good luck. Dick B
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wmonroe
Elite Member
The price seems good based on what a new unit costs and it looks to be in good shape. The paint might be faded but that won't hurt and it can be repainted if desired. Looks solid with no weld repairs on the backhoe or buckets.
Thanks for the responses. I was concerned that the hoe might be in sad shape, but based on your replies the worst I have to worry about is faded paint -- I can live with that.
Larry
wmonroe
Elite Member
Worst case is probably badly rust pitted cylinders and dry rotted hoses. Hoses aren't too big of a deal as they can be replaced as they fail. I can't see the cylinders too good in the pics but they appear good.
rbargeron
Elite Member
In the single picture above there are a few visible spots on the bucket cylinder rod. Before running the hydraulics, exposed rods should be gone over with emery cloth to shine off any spots. The plating on the rods is quite good but if unused for years pitting can appear. (salt in airborne dust starts it).
Re: L5412 Installation
I finally have gotten to the installation of this backhoe and have a couple questions. The sub-frames have gone on with a little futzing and the local dealer has been out to see about building hoses for the plumbing.
I am working on power for the fan and have a couple arms that have damaged threads and two adjustment bolts that are seized.
1) Does anyone recognize the connector on the fan for power?
2) Where should I take power from on the tractor? I see there is a free connector in the rear for what I guess is a
trailer -- might that work?
3) Where should I take these arms to clean up the threads, replace the bolts and un-seize the stubborn ones?
Thanks for your help.
Larry
I finally have gotten to the installation of this backhoe and have a couple questions. The sub-frames have gone on with a little futzing and the local dealer has been out to see about building hoses for the plumbing.
I am working on power for the fan and have a couple arms that have damaged threads and two adjustment bolts that are seized.
1) Does anyone recognize the connector on the fan for power?
2) Where should I take power from on the tractor? I see there is a free connector in the rear for what I guess is a
trailer -- might that work?
3) Where should I take these arms to clean up the threads, replace the bolts and un-seize the stubborn ones?
Thanks for your help.
Larry
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rbargeron
Elite Member
Re: L5412 Installation
You may not need the fan very often. Unless you dig all day in high heat, the hydraulic oil in your L5450 won't heat up much. The connector in your third pic may be for a cab and may not have big enough wire and fusing for the fan motor - I'd just run a #10 or #12 wire from the battery cable terminal on the starter, adding a 20A in-line fuse and a 20A toggle switch for the fan. When a Laurin cab is mounted on these models, it has a separate fuse block connected with #10 wire at the starter. Torch the stuck parts up to red-orange to free them up. Take care, Dick B
You may not need the fan very often. Unless you dig all day in high heat, the hydraulic oil in your L5450 won't heat up much. The connector in your third pic may be for a cab and may not have big enough wire and fusing for the fan motor - I'd just run a #10 or #12 wire from the battery cable terminal on the starter, adding a 20A in-line fuse and a 20A toggle switch for the fan. When a Laurin cab is mounted on these models, it has a separate fuse block connected with #10 wire at the starter. Torch the stuck parts up to red-orange to free them up. Take care, Dick B
