Chains L4400DT front Chains?

[GotSnow]

Hello,

As my login name implies we get more than our share of snow in Idaho, this year in particular.
So I now have a L4400DT, loader, and rear blade. Long term I will buy a blower.
The tires are Ag with filled rears and H pattern chains on the rears as well.

But I am having trouble finding chains for the front tires; 8.3 x 16.
Anyone have a good source?

Also anyone running filled front tires? I am plowing snow on 10-15% drive that is ~1000 ft long so traction will be an ongoing issue. The rear chains helped termendously, but I want to add as much weight as possible to keep the center of mass as low as possible.
So I am thinking about filled front tires and front chains. Any down sides to this? The drive is gravel so it does not matter if the chains chew up the drive.

 

[lp333]

Have you tried TireChain.com?

 

[Greenfield Dave]

There are NUMEROUS posts in this forum that have said not to run chains on the front tires. Apparently, it puts too much torque on the front drive train, causing teeth to grind, and swear words to become prevalent. I don't think they recommend fluid either, possibly for the same reason. That makes no sense to me, because if the bucket is full, the weight is on the front axle...

Post pix of these Idaho snows you speak of...

 

[GotSnow]

Thanks for the feedback.

tirechains.com does not have that size listed but I will give them a call and see if they have a solution. The local tire/chain dealers say that they cannot help since it is a strange size.

I also have read those that suggest the front chains and front filled tires are a bad idea but I am skeptical. As you point out it is basically the same as a bucket full of gravel. Also it seems to me that the front steel weights that are common on many types of tractor are also basically the same thing. Has anyone seen or heard an official word from Kubota on this?

The first picture is the L4400DT and my supervisor.

The second is a shot of a driveway. That section is not too bad ~2-3 feet deep in places. But around the bend it was at least 5-6 feet deep in places. The rear blade was no use. I ended up shoveling out with the bucket.
We are somewhere in the neighborhood of 5-6 feet of actual snowfall this winter, but it has not broken above freezing for any length of time during the last month so it just piles up and then the wind blows it into drifts. In some places the snow is only a few inches thick and then in others it will be many feet thick.

 

[GotSnow]

Here is a shot of the rear tires and chains.
The bungee cords are a short term solution.

I have the rear tires set out as far as possible. I will do the same with the front tires as well.

 

[RFB]

Gotsnow,

Get these for the rears:

tirechains

I run vbar chains on the front, and chains like yours on the back, and my rears are filled with Rimguard, and the backhoe stays on for more weight.

The vbars were from 16 inch pickup tires. I cannibalized another older chain set as well to add additional cross-links to the front set, and linked them with lap links.

I "got snow" as well.

 

[jmc]

snow.JPG is a great photo!

John

 

[Waltert]

Hi All,
On my old L245 DT I just picked up a set of chains for my front tires that were close in size and added a few links here and there to make them fit, easy fix , worked great. I got the type with x looking spikes, they chewed through just about everything.
Walter

 

[lp333]

GotSnow, my BX24 runs with chains on all four from Tirechain.com. With the FEL and a 3PH snowblower, it has excellent front/back weight distribution. This little machine is virtually unstoppable in either direction... even going up (or down) icy hills. I have no doubt that chains will do wonders on your L4400DT.

 

[Hammy]

I've got a very similar machine as yours. I run v-bar chains on all four tires. I think the fronts do more then the rears to be honest and on my hilly driveway, chaining up all four was a must. I don't see an issue and I couldn't find it anywhere in my owner's manual saying not to do so.

I bought mine from Tirechain.com.

Craig

 

[simonmeridew]

Hi Got:
My approach for plowing your driveway/road would be to start pushing with the bucket as far as you can get or until it bogs down with snow piled in front of the bucket. Then carefully bucket the accumulated snow to the side...probably 5 bucketfuls or so, then start back down the drive again until it bogs etc. When you get to the bottom start back up the hill going forward, and when you get to the top, turn around again and start down with the bucket by moving over a few feet left or right and push again.
That's this year.
Next year, three things: put a snow fence on the prevailing side of the drive in the areas that drift the worst a/o plant short evergreen trees as a wind break for the future. two: put some whips every 15 feet or so especially where the drive curves to mark where the drive is. three: get a snow plow mounted on the front of your bucket, either with a quick-connect or other arrangement, to help "cast" the snow to the side. It'll be spring loaded so that if you hit a frozen piece or gravel or some other obstruction the blade will pivot and avoid shock-damaging the loader hydraulics/cylinders etc. From the looks of your excellent pics you need a serious snow plow setup and a simple upgrade from rear chains to front/rear chains is not going to be enough. That pic looks like an 8 or 10 hour chore to clear the snow.

I bought Norwegian boron steel spike chains for the rears of my L4400 and traction is no longer a problem. We get snow 2 or 3 times a winter like in your pic ourselves plus I log with my winch so I want traction.
simonmeridew

 

[GotSnow]

Guys,
Thanks for the feedback.
We have had more snow since that picture and more on the way tonight so a set of front chains and stretchers will definitely be key. I suspect the front chains will help significantly with the steering problem I currently have. If I go slow I can get the job done, but it requires some caution and takes a lot of time.

Simonmeridew: All good points. Some bushes and trees to act as a snow fence will definitely help and that is in the works for next year. I am more or less doing what you suggest. My problem is where to put it all and the fact that I have steep ditches on both sides and a narrow road. So pushing the snow to the side is a problem. Also I have to be careful not to get a wheel off into the deep snow that is hiding the ditches.

That is why I think a rear mount blower will be very helpful. But a front blade may be a good investment as well. The good news is that this loader has a quick attach bucket that is bobcat compatible so attaching a front plow should be easy. I had a similar setup on a much large tractor that I use to run and loved it. Pull two levers and the attachmemt pops right off.
Any suggestions on a good front blade manufacturer?

 

[jmc]

The front mounted blades I've seen stick way out there since they have to have clearance to angle. The side force from that much snow wants to push the front of your tractor sideways so I guess that's another reason to have front chains.

John

 

[Mikeeemo]

The front wheels on your 4wd tractor are designed to turn slightly faster than the rear tires. That is why you get all of the conflicting information about chains & filling the front tires with liquid. I would have to speculate that your decision would need to be based on you specific needs. I did a little research on this a couple of years ago when I purchased my L4400DT. I live in the deep south, so a just loaded the rears with water and use suitcase weights when a have the FEL removed. BTW, when using the loader for heavy loads, you really need a weight box or heavy implement on the 3 point to prevent you from tipping forward. I have done that & will assure you that I won't sign up to do it again....

 

[RFB]

Got Snow,

I use a Curtis 7 foot blade on my Kubota 5030 with 853 QA FEL. I also installed the W.R. Long electric(solenoid)/hydraulic system for power angle function. This give left and right angle added to the normal lift and curl actions.

It is on and off in 2 minutes: detach bucket, drive to plow, hook in and throw levers, then plug in 2 hoses and go to work.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/photos/showphoto.php/photo/2756/sort/1/cat/500/page/2

The other thing you will definitely want from WR Long is the "bulk head plate with bulk head fittings". It bolts (using existing bolts) onto the starboard side of the torsion tube covering plate (the big round pipe with the flat plate at the front of the FEL) If I can do it, anyone can. I think I remember it costing about $100. It saves a lot of climbing under the tractor in mud and snow to attach and detach fittings as you change back and forth from bucket to plow. Hoses from the WR Long valve stay attached to this, and you just plug your plow into the quick connects up front.

The "Electric over Hydraulic Valve Kit" is the first pic on this page, and the "bulk head plate with bulk head fittings" is the 3rd pic.

Valve Kits



I would buy it again without question.

To compliment it, i just purchased a Loftness 841S rear-mount PTO snowblower. Loftness > Snow Blowers > Tractor Mounted > S Series Small

Like you, in some areas I rapidly run out of places to push it, so I am now running a plow and a blower.