Kubota L3940 All the Sudden Won't Move and Hydraulics Won't Work

[5030]

Simple call to your dealer will confirm that issue.

 

[5030]

One thing to keep in mind and that is, running the pumps dry will score the swash plates. They cannot run dry.

 

[CobyRupert]

I wonder why it wouldn’t start when pulled up on the level?

 

[sixdogs]

I wonder why it wouldn’t start when pulled up on the level?

Prob more fluid leaked out while sitting on that angle? Must be really low.

 

[webmonk]

No easy or cheap fix,have to split the tractor$.

a split is in order as your input seal has failed.

Make sure they replace the 4wd shaft seal while they are in there and the sleeve that it rides on.

Splitting a tractor apart

Thank you all. Not sure if I got everyone's response about the need to split the tractor.

A few parting questions...
1) There could be several reasons, but any idea what causes the seal to fail? If it is something I could have done, I want to avoid it in the future.

• I've had the tractor for 13-14 years
• I maintain (mow) about 5 acres
• I use the loader to move all sorts of things (heavy and light)
• I use a box blade to maintain a nearly 1/2 mile gravel drive, level areas and move snow
• There are more hills than level areas on our land
• I try to have it serviced regularly, based pretty closely on the manual's recommendations

2) This seems drastic enough of a repair (especially since I have a cab on it) that it may be too much for an average mechanic. Would you recommend a dealer performing this or just finding a good independent mechanic?

3) I know there are a LOT of variables, but can someone give me a general ballpark on what I'm look at for cost? Above $2000, above $3000, over $5000? Just need to know how many children I'll have to sell to pay for it!

I have L3940 so I’m paying attention.

Once I take the step to get it repaired I'll place an update here so other owners will know what to expect.

 

[5030]

I'd say at 14 years it's just tired and I'd take it to a dealer. A cab unit requires a trained tech, nit some shadetree mechanic. Couple grand probably.

 

[nybirdman]

I'll let you know in a week or so when I get mine back!Guessing 2K minimum.
It's nothing you or I did;just happens.So common the dealer keeps the necessary parts in stock.

 

[5030]

Like I said previously (and you must have missed it), if you ran the gearcase dry and it didn't move, there is a good chance (if it's a hydrostat) that you scored the swash plates in the pump. They don't last very long with no lubricant flooding them.

 

[number two]

This seems to be a Grand L 40 series issue.
I never see complaints about the Grand L 10,30 &60 series.
Good Luck!

 

[CoyPatton]

Prob more fluid leaked out while sitting on that angle? Must be really low.

Low fluid combined with somewhat steep incline and fluid moved away from pump pickup point. Once pumped out of that area, low fluid level did not allow replenishment to the pickup. Many tractors have multiple drain plugs for a reason.
With noticing a 3x3 ft oil spot in grass and not checking and filling, well learn a lesson from his error. Even a few drips from being parked, one needs to check fluid levels. Anytime a leak has bern noticed.
Of course a 9 sq ft oil spot means get it somewhere for repairs not keep on working! (Not intending to bash the OP, but express to others to do differently). That size spot on grass would have been larger on concrete that would not absorb oil, and probably would have been significantly larger (as much as twice as large — 6x6 ft)

 

[jonsstihl]

definitely change all the seals will you are in there and make sure they check the shafts or sleeves that the seals ride on also. A 100$ shaft on a 2000$ dollar repair is cheap compared to having to split the tractor again soon because the new seal did not seal on the old shaft.

I have heard around 2000$ for that job but thankfully have not experienced it myself yet. I believe there are updated parts that better resist the wear Maybe rickb will be along shortly to confirm.

 

[BufordBoone]

Mine had that split pin leak about 1 yr. ago. I had it taken to the local dealer. It was just over $2,500 for the repair.

Good luck.

 

[webmonk]

Well, I got my tractor back the other day and it was a seal leak as suspected. Their wording was:

Hydro leak est fix before anything
Tech found unit leaking out transmission bell housing weep hole

Tech replaced all needed parts to correct issue
Changed out hydro fluid, filters and put in fresh fluid
Checked operation... No leaks

They did some other routine maintenance so I'm unable to separate out the time spent on fixing the leak verses the other. But the cost for the leak parts and all the service time just over $2,400 (before tax).

The breakdown was $482 for parts and $1806 for all the service (@ $18.8162 / hour, which comes to 96 hours). There was $177 for misc. This seems to be in line with what others have reported.

I don't care for paying so much, but it is certainly nice having it back and working. Hope this helps with others trying to diagnose their problem and deciding, whether or not to perform the service and knowing what it will cost.

 

[k0ua]

If you didn't have significant wear on the swash plate and slippers count yourself lucky. Very lucky.

Note to everyone: Next time you see a significant oil leak under a tractor, it is time to figure out why.

 

[k0ua]

What I wonder is why you got off so cheap? The parts sound right but that labor sound like half enough to me. Seriously ONLY $18 an hour for labor. ? Wow, that seems REALLY cheap.

 

[bearthebruce]

For a dealer to make money, his service hourly rate has to be near $100. Can't pay the tech and pay for the insurance and shop facilities at $18/hour.

My guess the labor bill was 18.81hours at $96/hour...

 

[jonsstihl]

That would make a lot more sense. Maybe they figured you wouldn't freak out as much thinking they spent 96 hours at 18$ per hour. But it all comes out to the same thing in the end.

 

[tractorcrazy]

I was mowing the back side of our pond dam. I back down and drive back up. I have done this many times before. After a few times today I was driving back up and all the sudden my forward movement stopped. I put my foot on the brake and tried a few times to drive up, making sure that it was in gear, but every time I let off the brake I would start rolling backwards. I tried the hydraulics (loader and PTO mower) and neither would raise up. I turned it off and started it again hoping that would reset something, but it didn't. After several attempts in different gears and settings (in case I bumped something) I gave up.

Does anyone have any idea of the likely cause and solution?

 

[tractorcrazy]

I was mowing the back side of our pond dam. I back down and drive back up. I have done this many times before. After a few times today I was driving back up and all the sudden my forward movement stopped. I put my foot on the brake and tried a few times to drive up, making sure that it was in gear, but every time I let off the brake I would start rolling backwards. I tried the hydraulics (loader and PTO mower) and neither would raise up. I turned it off and started it again hoping that would reset something, but it didn't. After several attempts in different gears and settings (in case I bumped something) I gave up.

Does anyone have any idea of the likely cause and solution?

I have a L4310 i noticed a couple times while I was mowing and backing down a steep grade it didn't want to go forward i cant remember if it finally took off or i backed down to level ground but i think it had to do with all the fluid running to the rear of the tractor away from the pump.you could be a little low on fluid making the cituation worse.get someone with a tractor or 4 wheel drive truck to pull you up to level ground and i bet it will move then check the fluid level i bet its a tad bit low.i wouldn't keep trying it on the hillside where its now your liable to damage the hydraulic pump. Hope this helps thanks Rick