Kubota L3301HST/LA525 modifications

[kennyd]

Nice work so far Lenny :thumbsup:

 

[dieselcrawler]

I agree, nice work so far.... nice tractor too.

Re: your side hill test. Keep in mind that once you are sitting in the operator's seat, you have likely raised the center of gravity. You also have to factor in momentum and centrifugal force during actual operating conditions. A static side hill test vs actually driving across that same area can be vastly different. All it takes is that low side tire hitting a soft spot you didn't realize was there...

So now that you did your test with rear wheels not as wide as they go, once you have widened them out all the way, and carry rear ballast low as possible on side hills, you should be good... just go slowly, be cautious.

How about some pictures of that house and deck... your place looks nice from the limited view of it we've seen so far... how's the view? I live on the very top of a high knob, the 360° view is awesome, one of the characteristics I really like about our place.

Here's the view from the back patio one summer evening after work. Left the driving of the barbie power wheels jeep to my daughter.



And from my driveway on the other side



I got some hills myself... 118 ac of them!

 

[Fallon]

You can mess with the offset on R1 at rims (which I see in the original photos), but not R4 industrial rims. At least on the economy Kubotas.

I can't widen my R4s to get rear chains on mine without wheel spacers.

 

[lennyzx11]

Nice place dieselcrawler! I only have about 8 acres. I bought this as a foreclosure in 2009 and the previous owners tore it up on the way out. Stripped all the wiring and fixtures and just grabbed and tore up what they could on the way out. I work out on the road (build wind turbines) so I work work work then get home for a month or so and throw myself into projects. The rock walls and patio is my work so no laughing too bad. The trees were up against the house in the deck side so I cut them out and stump pulled by hand. (Shoulda had the tractor already back then!)

 

[motownbrowne]

Thanks on the info about the wheel spacing. That back hill showing in one of the photos is an honest 30 degree slope. I've had trouble mowing it with a rider and ZTR with wife actually managing to turn the rider over on it once. I had asked the dealer to move the tires out before delivery but they only moved them to the normal centered position. I've been debating moving them but hesitating knowing that wheels are weighted and I work alone.

I did a quick test to see where the realistic limits were with the current setup.
I parked the tractor ROPS up on the side hill sideways on the steepest part that always has scared us with the bucket hovering over the ground. I then got off (if anyone does this, please don't be a d****ss like me and park where you get off on the downhill side. We had a moment there.)
I then gently pushed on the ROPS on the uphill side and watched the tire lift easily off the ground with just a little force. So it was close to the balance point.
Then, I took my IPhone, set it on angle finder mode and laid it flat on the transmission floorboard. It read 30 degrees. So now I plan to build up any of the yard I have to be on to less than 30 degrees.View attachment 452998

Yeah, move them all the way out. You'll be impressed with how much stability you gain. I managed to wrestle around my 13.6-28s full of beet juice, so the 11.2-24s should be doable.

 

[4570Man]

I removed the filled R4 from my tractor. The key to success is very accurate jacking height so the lug bolts line up without lifting anything. The R4s stand up themselves. It might be harder with R1s.

 

[motownbrowne]

I removed the filled R4 from my tractor. The key to success is very accurate jacking height so the lug bolts line up without lifting anything. The R4s stand up themselves. It might be harder with R1s.

Yeah, it is definitely tough that they try to tip over on you. Once they get to much of an angle, they are hard to keep upright. The flip side, though is that the R4 tires will be significantly heavier for the same tractor size.

 

[The Deerslayer]

One thing to do, if you haven't already, is to widen your rear tires. No parts needed, just a floor jack, a couple of jack stands, and ideally a buddy.

You'll notice in your owners manual that you need weight on the three point hitch for loader work. I'm guessing here, but somewhere around 800-1000 lbs should be what you want for your 3301. This will help keep the rear tires on the ground and keep you safer. Widening the rear tire spacing coupled with this ballast will help keep your tractor upright, which is of the utmost importance.

I have to keep mine at a set width for vegetable production, about 53" from center to center of the tread on my 13.6-28s. However, during the winter, I can widen them up. I just did that this week and went from 53" to 64". The stability increase is incredible. Unless you need them close in for some reason, move them all the way out. You probably have to swap them side to side to do it, but it'd worth it. Just be careful, they're heavy!

Definitely agree. Just did this on my L3901 with loaded tires, and it was a piece of cake. You will need another set of hands though or if you have an engine hoist with straps. Difference in stability is significant.

Your place looks great. Congrats on the machine!

 

[dstig1]

You have nothing to apologize for at all. That is a very nice place. You are concerned about handling large weighted rear tires, and rightly so. Here is what I did as a reference. Other, more manly men seem to think handling 1000ln wheels is no big deal, but I know the laws of gravity well enough :
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/278997-how-lift-filled-rear-tires.html?highlight=

 

[motownbrowne]

You have nothing to apologize for at all. That is a very nice place. You are concerned about handling large weighted rear tires, and rightly so. Here is what I did as a reference. Other, more manly men seem to think handling 1000ln wheels is no big deal, but I know the laws of gravity well enough :
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/278997-how-lift-filled-rear-tires.html?highlight=

Hey, that looks pretty swell!! The greased plywood would even be a huge help if going it alone. I'll definitely remember those tips when I have to put mine back in come springtime. Thanks for posting that!

 

[dieselcrawler]

Nice looking place! Great views too! Thanks for sharing the pictures. I like the multiple level decks. Nice work on the rock walls, I would like to build some myself. I have one by the barn that needs redone.

 

[lennyzx11]

Had a few minutes today and got the rear wheels moved out per suggestion.


First order of business was finding and refilling the low oil cylinder in my jack, going over to my dads to get my jack stands and getting the rear end off the ground.

Then measuring the current distance of the wheelbase width.

And the original configuration.

Locking the parking brake, I removed the bolts and then turned the outer rim slightly wiggling it out past the inner rim. Then rotating back for the new bolt holes
to align. I let the tractor down slightly for the tire to touch the ground, released the parking brake and by rotating the opposite wheel I lined up one of the bolt holes and stuck a bolt in it to hold the rim on. Jacked it back up a bit and used a pry bar under the wheel to wiggle the next bolt hole in alignment with one hand. The bolts are square shouldered so now they go in from outside to in.

Yep, one got away from me while rotating the opposite rim. Lift with your legs!

Then tightening all up from the inside now, and remeasuring shows my increased width. Yay!



Though I have a pretty good Snap On impact some of the bolts needed a little nudge.

Now I need to run it around a bit and retorque all.

 

[TripleR]

That is a really nice tractor and some very good modifications; also love the scenery. You will find if you haven't already, there always seems to be "just one more", some expensive and some not. I would suggest from personal experience adding some expanded metal to your grill guard before you get a stick through it. If you don't have one, a hydraulic top-link is worth its weight in gold, TnT even better, oh then wheel weights and...

Enjoy your new tractor.:thumbsup:

 

[lennyzx11]

Warning to all you guys!

It's when dearly beloved catches you doing things like this is when she decides it's time for you to start a new project!


Looks like I start on our new Murphy bed tomorrow....

 

[The Deerslayer]

Warning to all you guys!

It's when dearly beloved catches you doing things like this is when she decides it's time for you to start a new project!
View attachment 456799

Looks like I start on our new Murphy bed tomorrow....

Awesome....

 

[lennyzx11]

Had a little time today so added a larger toolbox behind the seat.

Since I then had that little box that said "Kubota" on the top, I couldn't quite retire it. After all, it's brand new!
So I found a place for it.
Perfect place for the chainsaw "stuff".

 

[The Deerslayer]

Had a little time today so added a larger toolbox behind the seat.View attachment 457196

Since I then had that little box that said "Kubota" on the top, I couldn't quite retire it. After all, it's brand new!
So I found a place for it.View attachment 457197
Perfect place for the chainsaw "stuff".
View attachment 457198

Do tell where you got the toolbox......started looking to do the same exact project. Looks like it fits perfectly on yours so it should on mine too. Did you mount it to the same bar under the factory one, or did you need to reinforce?

 

[lennyzx11]

It's a Rubbermaid box. I'll measure it. I did cut a "floor" of OSB and put it inside the rear box to stiffen it up without modding the tractor. Couple of larger flat washers top inside the box band it's a solid mount.

 

[ishiboo]

Obligatory action photo.

That should not be an action photo. You are missing a heavy implement or counterweight on the 3 point. All of the weight is sitting on the front axle.

Please throw the heaviest implement you have on the 3 point for substantial loader work. Your tractor will thank you.

 

[The Deerslayer]

It's a Rubbermaid box. I'll measure it. I did cut a "floor" of OSB and put it inside the rear box to stiffen it up without modding the tractor. Couple of larger flat washers top inside the box band it's a solid mount.

Thanks!