Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints

[bumperm]

Getting ready to install a back up camera along with a loader mounted front camera so I can see the pallet forks and cutting edge on the bucket. I'll be sort of copying Waxman in some respects.

Will also be installing amber LED traffic bars front and back for snow removal safety, so the roof will be coming off as well.

Ever wanted to shut down the tractor but leave the radio on while working nearby? To do this I'll be adding a couple of Schottky isolation diodes, one on the ignition switched 12 volts to the radio and another to the same point from the "rear outlet"* aux 12 volt supply through a toggle switch. (The diodes prevent 12 volts from the always on Aux from flowing back into the switched ignition circuit.)

*The rear outlet is a 10 amp fused connector that's tucked in the left rear corner behind the seat (didn't even know it was there until I saw the fuse and went looking for it!). I'll tap into power there and run the wires up under the left rear vertical trim - - at least that's the plan. The amber LED bars will use the same DC source.

BTW, amber flashers are regulated in some states. NV requires you to apply for a permit - - $2 a year :c) - - guess they don't want everyone and their brother lighting up the highway with flashing strobe lights.

bumper

 

[bumperm]

Front camera mount:



Parts to clamp mount on front stabilizer bar.



The camera boom removes easily. It's also possible to pivot it back out of the way when working with brush etc.




In "Waxman's" install, the camera boom is mounted to the left side of the loader. I wanted a centered mount, figuring it would be easier to view pallet forks from directly behind. Also, with a 130 degree camera view angle and center mounted, all of the bucket cutting edge is visible.

Next is mounting the monitor and wiring, then followed by rear camera install.

best,

bumper

 

[bumperm]

The RVS uses a multiplex box to tie it all together, I could find just one location for it, as shown. It's mounted with 3 small squares of 3M mushroom dual lock tape. Ignition switched power for the multiplex was obtained from the parking brake warning switch.



Wire to the two cameras is routed down the right side of the console and back to the right fender well alongside an existing wire loom. A utility knife is used to cut the layerd foam and the top layer is then torn out to make room for the additional wire loom. The wire for the front cam exits the cab bottom at the inboard edge of the fender while the rear cam wire continues up under the inside trim and is then routed up the right rear corner post (remove plastic rivets fixing interior trim cover by backing out plastic phillips head screw, then pull out "rivit") If using a joystick mounted button to switch select cams, that 3 conductor wire goes to inside the inner fender cover as well. To remove this ccover, unscrew mounting screws on under side of fender.



The optional hydraulic 3rd function joystick handle is shown. I drilled a hole in the inboard side of the housing and installed a single pole, double throw (SPDT), center off toggle switch to select which camera to view. With the RVS system, this switch will also turn the monitor on (though the monitor still must be powered from ignition switched 12V). The joystick mounted switch was used, rather than a reverse sensing switch, as the Kobota doesn't have a convenient back up switch and I deemed it more work to install one :c).



Roof removed. Power for amber light bars was obtained by splicing into the left most wire loom (large yellow black - positive, large black - negative, these wires are fused 25 amp and power the air conditioner blower and several other items.

Enough for one post, more to follow.

bumper

 

[bumperm]

The underside of the roof, showing the three connectors (front and rear light bar, rear camera). Roof is easy to remove - remove three gray plastic caps near center of roof liner (these just snap on to cover 10mm hex head bolts), remove bolts. Next remove all 10mm hex bolts around perimeter of roof, including two that are through extended strap brackets at the rear. Some bolts are much longer than others, no need to keep track of what goes where as the correct bolt length is obvious. Roof is light but ungainly, so you will need two people to remove or replace.

Forgot to mention, when roof is removed is a great time to replace the speakers. Stock speakers are okay, higher quality replacements sound much better, even to my tired old ears. I used these:

Amazon.com: Rockford Fosgate R14X2 Prime 4-Inch Full Range Coaxial Speaker - Set of 2: Car Electronics

though any good 4 inch speaker should do. Note that the old speaker grills were used as the new, more rounded ones had clearance issues with headliner. Could have sanded off offending part, but the old ones fit nicely. Also note that Kubota uses mounting screws into loose nuts on the backside, so it is not possible to remove speakers without access to the backside by removing roof.



The rock was not even visible without front cam, nice to be able to see exactly what loader bucket is doing. That said, the 130 degree fish eye view does take some getting used to.



Rear view with grid lines (lines can be menu deleted), note the 3-point hitch lower links are visible to aid in implement alignment. My 6-O'clock "Messerschmidt twitch" never did work well, so I'm one of those that has to twist my body around to look directly aft. Sometimes this kills the engine if the seat switch is left operational (mine has been jumper wire disabled). So the rear cam is a really nice!







The front mount easily removes w/ no tools and also adjust fore and aft or simply swings back out of harm's way if need be.



Rear cam position. Roof is double wall, hollow, so all wiring was routed inside roof. Butyl rubber tape (caulk) used to seal roof penetrations. One would probably never notice, but cab is not exactly square to tractor, off a few degrees, thus to get rear cam grid lines aligned properly, it was necessary to slightly (0.060") shim one side of cam mount to get it straight.





Pallet forks - I could never see the tips before - - moving rocks is gonna be easy!



When not playing with the tractor.

best,

bumper

 

[bumperm]

Control heads for amber light bars are mounted to an aluminum plate using adhesive mount Velcro. Switch to right (on rear support column trim) removes power from light control heads. Light bars are wired to 12 VDC continuous (no ignition switched), as there may be times when it's desirable to have lights operating with ign off. Switch is necessary as light bar control still draws .120 amps (120 ma) when control button is off.



Switch above radio is used to apply power to radio when tractor ignition switch is off. Nice to have the option to listen to radio when working near the tractor when it's not running. The wiring to accomplish this is relatively easy and is all done on the radio pig tail (the wires that run from the radio to the Kubota radio plug in.

Requires two isolation diodes and an on off switch (of course). The cathodes (banded end) of the two diodes are connected together. The + (ignition switched) wire to the radio is cut and one diode is spliced in series with this wire - cathode side of the diode/s toward radio, anode towards Kubota wiring plug. The second diode will have a wire connected to it's free (anode end) and this will go to one side of the new on-off switch. The other side of the on-off switch is spliced to the radio's always hot (battery, or memory keep alive) wire.

Isolation diodes are necessary as other wise the switch would back feed 12 volt bat positive to the ignition circuitry. I used 8 amp Schottky diodes as thier voltage drop (loss) is low, about .120 volts. Regular diodes (5 amp or so) would work too - they drop about .7 volts.

bumper

 

[PapaPerk]

Front camera mount:

http://s674.photobucket.com/user/bumperm/media/IMG_0885_zps5dce5f8a.jpg.html

Parts to clamp mount on front stabilizer bar.

http://s674.photobucket.com/user/bumperm/media/IMG_0886_zpsbb2fe255.jpg.html

The camera boom removes easily. It's also possible to pivot it back out of the way when working with brush etc.




In "Waxman's" install, the camera boom is mounted to the left side of the loader. I wanted a centered mount, figuring it would be easier to view pallet forks from directly behind. Also, with a 130 degree camera view angle and center mounted, all of the bucket cutting edge is visible.

Next is mounting the monitor and wiring, then followed by rear camera install.

best,

bumper

Nice work! Good to see everyone being creative and making their own modifications and accessories!

 

[bumperm]

Thanks Papaperk!



Couple of things I forgot. When installing a "bucket cam" on the frontloader, if you have occasion to remove the loader for other front mount implements (in my case, that would be a front mount snow blower), then it's necessary to have a quick connect for the camera wiring so you can easily disconnect that along with the hydraulics.

When wiring the camera, I pretty much followed the loader's hydraulic line back to the quick connects on the right side of the tractor. The camera wire is cut at this point and a connector installed. The wire has 5 individual wires and the yellow video wire also has a separate shield, so a 6 conductor connector is used*: Amazon.com: 5 Kit 6 Pin Way Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector Plug: Car Electronics

You could use a 4 or 5 conductor connector if you give up the audio monitor function on the camera (probably not needed anyway) and the video wire shield can usually be left disconnected with no problems on the monitor (at least that was my experience during testing - -still better to run the shield though).

When running the wire with the hydraulic lines through the anti-chafe covering, I slid the wire through a length of 1/4" ID teflon tubing (McMaster-Carr on line). This tubing is slipperier than snake snot on a flat rock and reasonably tough, but it doesn't bend to a tight radius - - thus it's well suited to go with the hydraulic lines which should also not be bent tightly and will protect the wire well.

Up forward, where I needed to extend the wire protected along the bottom of the boom arm, and there were no steel hydraulic tubing to attach the wire to, I used a length of carbon fiber kite spar material 1/4" ID as conduit. This was then cable tied to the steel hydraulic lines up higher on the boom. The kite spar is narrow enough that it tucks up under the boom in the recess there and is out of sight.

Split wire loom (the corrugated black vinyl stuff) is used everywhere else to keep wiring clean looking and protected.

all the best,

bumper

 

[WaxMan]

Nice work bumperm, the best compliment one can receive, thanks for the credit. Finally, someone gets my camera. Isn't it just great to see what you're doing.
It makes sense being a pilot, you want to know whats going on:thumbsup:
Nice work.

I learned a little too late to start a new thread when posting a new project. That way, someone can find it later. I never would have looked here if not for your resent post directing me. If I was looking for camera mods. As time goes by it will be even harder to find your camera.

I didn't see anything you posted on 3/30/14 or 4/3/14 or yesterday until now. It's not too late, just start one now before too many people post. Copy and paste is a great feature.

 

[bumperm]

Added hydraulic top and tilt:







Cutting off original clevis on tilt cylinder. Original fixed left lift link was cut and each end welded to tilt cylinder - cylinder disassembled first to prevent heat damage to seals.
All part from Surplus Sales except for restricter inserts (.032") that I made for each cylinder to slow them down for more precise positioning. Total cost less than $400 including a few extra fittings and hoses.

bumper

 

[bumperm]

I really goofed when I "reorganized" my photos in Photobucket. Didn't realize it would screw up the images in my previous posts. Haven't figured out a good way to undo the damage yet. Sorry.

If anyone knows how to edit old posts so I can update the photo links, please let me know.

bumper

 

[6sunset6]

I have a question about mirror image. I want to use a back up camera looking forward. Do they allow mirror image or not or do they all come set up for mirror image?

 

[bumperm]

On my Rear View Safety system, that option is menu selectable. I'm using mirror image for the rear facing cam, as it seems more natural and it what my little brain is programmed for. Front cam is normal view of course.

bumper

 

[Complete Turf Care]

I really goofed when I "reorganized" my photos in Photobucket. Didn't realize it would screw up the images in my previous posts. Haven't figured out a good way to undo the damage yet. Sorry.

If anyone knows how to edit old posts so I can update the photo links, please let me know.

bumper

I don't know how you would do it, but I would really like to see your photos. I have a Kubota L5740 and I would like to install a front and rear camera system. Is there another way to see your pics? Can you re-post them? Or can you provide a link to the photobucket page?

Thanks!

 

[bumperm]

I don't know how you would do it, but I would really like to see your photos. I have a Kubota L5740 and I would like to install a front and rear camera system. Is there another way to see your pics? Can you re-post them? Or can you provide a link to the photobucket page?

Thanks!

Okay, will try the link first, once on the first page of photos, you should be able to go to the next etc. (assuming the link works). The photos are mostly not tagged, I may go back through and tag them. Post here if you have any questions.

EDIT . . . I went back in and added some descriptions on photos.

Kubota Tractor Photos by bumperm | Photobucket

bumper

 

[Complete Turf Care]

Okay, will try the link first, once on the first page of photos, you should be able to go to the next etc. (assuming the link works). The photos are mostly not tagged, I may go back through and tag them. Post here if you have any questions.

Kubota Tractor Photos by bumperm | Photobucket

bumper

The link works. Thanks! Where did you run the power cable for the front camera? Does it go into the cab and connect to the monitor? Could you go with a wireless front camera and just power it from the battery?

 

[bumperm]

Pretty sure you'll want to go with wired cameras. This avoids occasional interference, and since you have to run power to the cams anyway . . .

Camera wire is routed along bottom of front loader brace using double sided hook and loop. At underside of right loader arm is a quick connect so that cam and mount can easily be removed from loader leaving main wire (description follows) in place.

From front of loader arm wire run is routed through a carbon fiber rod (nylon tying to any sort of rod would work) to get the wire to the first steel hydraulic lines. At the lines, the wire, with flex conduit over, is attached to hydraulic lines all the way back to the loader hydraulic quick connect point, at which point there is a weatherproof wire connector so the loader can be removed in total (to make room for winter front mount snowblower). At quick connect point wire runs aft and then up inside cab floor where it goes forward to console alongside existing wire run (I used a razor knife to remove foam sound insulation to make existing wire raceway wider.

A fair amount of work overall, probably spent the equivalent of 3 days on it . . . a lot of time was spent noodling trying to figure what would be the best way. I had no plans, just knew what I wanted.

I wasn't sure how useful the rear cam grid lines would be. I had to slightly shim the cam mount to get the grid lines to fall exactly centered. They can be useful when backing up to an implement or backing onto a trailer.

One final thought, don't skimp on camera or monitor resolution, get the best you can find as being able to see detail is important sometimes.

bumper

 

[bumperm]

BH77 as mounted on the B2650 and B3350

Hint: Do what I didn't department. When removing 3-point lower arms, be sure to put the hitch pins back on the lower pivot pins. Otherwise the bushings may work their way out and jamb the backhoe frame when removing the backhoe. There isn't enough clearance for the bushings to be lost (no small favor there) but you might bend one of the pivot pins trying to unjamb things. Mine didn't bend, but I was worried.

Had to jack side of tractor at sub-frame to get enough clearance to unjamb the bushing. Phew!

bumper

 

[RCMEDIA]

Just have 6 hours on my new 3350. Have a B2782B 63" blower. Been between -30 an 19 here in NW Wisconsin, since i picked up my tractor. Blower and tractor both get high marks so far. I am confused on the DPF regen. My manual says its in the auto mode by default. Without pressing any buttons? I also thought I heard my salesperson say you have to hit the lower right button to place in auto regen mode.

Well after 6 hours the tractor shut down. Dealer picked up and said a hi temp code was triggered. I have been letting tractor warm up fefore using for 15-29 min in low idle. i also had the dealer install a block heater and trickle charger pigtails. Is this the cause of the DPF buildup?

I want to give this system a chance, but need some help.

When operating in cold temps, what tips do you have for DPF to funtion optimally. How long between regen cycles typically?

Thanks

This is the exact reason I ordered a B2650 - you're paying another $5,000 for the turbo to push exhaust through the clogged DPF and the extra 5 hp difference is lost with all the emission crap. In fact you might even have less hp than the B2650.

To make matters worse, you have to suffer with a computer telling your engine when to run and when to shut down, and you have to suffer with start-ups and idling. Bottom line is; if you put the 2650 up against the 3350 I'll bet there ain't no difference in power. Ain't our government great imposing restrictions on these little engines which does not contribute anything to the real problem.

 

[bumperm]

This is the exact reason I ordered a B2650 - you're paying another $5,000 for the turbo to push exhaust through the clogged DPF and the extra 5 hp difference is lost with all the emission crap. In fact you might even have less hp than the B2650.

To make matters worse, you have to suffer with a computer telling your engine when to run and when to shut down, and you have to suffer with start-ups and idling. Bottom line is; if you put the 2650 up against the 3350 I'll bet there ain't no difference in power. Ain't our government great imposing restrictions on these little engines which does not contribute anything to the real problem.

RCMEDIA,

califr's post was responded to previously with advice about what he was doing wrong. There is a learning curve with the computer and DPF equipped, higher horsepower Tier 4 diesels. And I agree that the EPA rules are a bunch of BS. That said, there is no way that a 2650 has the power of the 3350. Ain't happening - you would lose that bet. The 3350 also has a clear advantage at higher elevations (I live at 4900 feet) were a normally aspirated engine loses about 3% per 1000 feet elevation, the turbo supercharged engine does not.

Operated correctly, the DPF and auto regen is pretty much transparent, I pust the button after engine start. If it needs a regen while I'm running it, and it does that about every 13 hours or so, then it takes care of that automatically. I've only had it do a parked regen twice; once when I forced it to do that to see what would happen (I didn't allow it to auto regen), and then again when I was using the tractor for short periods and so didn't push the auto regen button. Pretty much a non event, took 15 minutes or so.

If I were making the purchase decision again, I would certainly consider the 2650, but the 3350 is a better fit for me I think.

bumper

 

[RCMEDIA]

RCMEDIA,

califr's post was responded to previously with advice about what he was doing wrong. There is a learning curve with the computer and DPF equipped, higher horsepower Tier 4 diesels. And I agree that the EPA rules are a bunch of BS. That said, there is no way that a 2650 has the power of the 3350. Ain't happening - you would lose that bet. The 3350 also has a clear advantage at higher elevations (I live at 4900 feet) were a normally aspirated engine loses about 3% per 1000 feet elevation, the turbo supercharged engine does not.

Operated correctly, the DPF and auto regen is pretty much transparent, I pust the button after engine start. If it needs a regen while I'm running it, and it does that about every 13 hours or so, then it takes care of that automatically. I've only had it do a parked regen twice; once when I forced it to do that to see what would happen (I didn't allow it to auto regen), and then again when I was using the tractor for short periods and so didn't push the auto regen button. Pretty much a non event, took 15 minutes or so.

If I were making the purchase decision again, I would certainly consider the 2650, but the 3350 is a better fit for me I think.

bumper

I think you hit the magic word "transparent" that's what your few extra HP (and your extra $5K) will be when its consumed by the emissions. Regardless of your elevation, as I mentioned there won't be enough power left with the 3350 to make any noticeable difference to the 2650. You're missing the whole point of this version of the B model, you guys are paying the R&D for the B model because the in a short period of time the clean running 26 hp engine which like the 21 hp model we've loved for years will vanish due to new requirements and we'll all be choking to death on these shiny tin can models. I have a very close relationship with my Kubota dealer and these new DPF models are quitting and failing throughout the entire line of tractors. The drivers and field techs are going nuts with these new DPF models.

As I mentioned, if you haven't already ordered or bought one - save yourself the grief and money and buy the clean running B2650, if you can't do the job with the 2650 then you won't do it with the 3350 either! I've owned a B21 for the past 14 years and they are bullet proof, the new 2650 is the same version of the B21 21 hp machine except they added 5 HP to run the AC unit - and another 5 hp for the DPF. its as simple as that.