Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints

[bumperm]

An addition I made when installing my radio, is a little toggle switch that connects the memory wire to the key switched radio power. That way I can listen to the radio while working outside the tractor, door open, when parked. You do need to add a couple of isolation diodes to keep the constant 12Volts from feeding back into the switched. I did a previous post on it.

Also replaced the stock cab speakers with aftermarket - much improved sound. Downside, if there is one, is you have to remove roof as they used regular loose nuts to secure speaker screws. That too is easy. I'd previous posts this thread on both projects but unfortunately, photo links got trashed. The photobucket album (with other Kubota projects too) is here:

Kubota Tractor Photos by bumperm | Photobucket

 

[bumperm]

Here is the hydraulic chute deflector that I built for the front mount snow blower. I could not justify the crazy cost of a kit from Kubota, so with the help of the fabricator at my shop we built this. It runs off the dump/curl function of the loader joystick, but could just as easily run of a third function or rear remote. It bolts to the existing holes in the chute. Not that we built one, we are thinking we may build more if there was interest from other folks in buying something like this. Wondering is there is any interest in buying this as an add on kit or buying the brackets and adding your own cylinder and hoses.

View attachment 413523View attachment 413522View attachment 413521

I did similar, but using a 2" diameter cylinder - one certainly doesn't need the power for the deflector, I was just concerned that a smaller cylinder would travel too fast. Even with that larger volume of the 2", I still added a 0.032" restricter orifice to slow down the ram speed to something more easily manageable.





Lining the chute with UHMW PE for no clogging and even more throw distance - - now if we just had some snow, a bleak year here.



bumper

 

[Farmall45b]

I did similar, but using a 2" diameter cylinder - one certainly doesn't need the power for the deflector, I was just concerned that a smaller cylinder would travel too fast. Even with that larger volume of the 2", I still added a 0.032" restricter orifice to slow down the ram speed to something more easily manageable.





Lining the chute with UHMW PE for no clogging and even more throw distance - - now if we just had some snow, a bleak year here.



bumper

I notice that your chute does not have holes drilled in it. My blower came with holes drilled in it for mounting a chute actuator. At first I thought that they all came this way and the factory just did a poor job of drilling the holes. Now I am beginning to think that my blower was previously in the hands of someone else who started to modify it to install a chute actuator.

 

[Farmall45b]

bumperm,

I am sure that it is somewhere in this thread, but what did you use for flow restrictors? I have 1/4 NPT at fittings on my hoses, cylinder and coupler. All the inline orfices that I am seeing online are either JIC or ORFS. I have thought about trying to build something with a washer or something to restrict flow and sandwiching it between my hose and coupler, but I am a bit affraid of the washer disintigrating under the pressure and going somewhere that would cause a lot of damage.

 

[bumperm]

I notice that your chute does not have holes drilled in it. My blower came with holes drilled in it for mounting a chute actuator. At first I thought that they all came this way and the factory just did a poor job of drilling the holes. Now I am beginning to think that my blower was previously in the hands of someone else who started to modify it to install a chute actuator.

Could be . . . were there any other indications that the holes had anything installed before, or were there other signs of use?

Or perhaps the mfg change their MO and decided to pre-drill the chute to accept the Kubota's supplied brackets for their deflector option? I briefly looked into buying parts from them - thought they were a little pricey. Easier to do it myself. I decided not to use reinforcement plates as the chute looked stout enough for directly welding bracket and lever arm for the cylinder (knowing that if I goofed, I could always go back, fix cracks, and do it right the second time :c). I planned the geometry so that the chute just fully opens and closes at the ends of the cylinder stroke with no over or under travel stress.

 

[Farmall45b]

Could be . . . were there any other indications that the holes had anything installed before, or were there other signs of use?

Or perhaps the mfg change their MO and decided to pre-drill the chute to accept the Kubota's supplied brackets for their deflector option? I briefly looked into buying parts from them - thought they were a little pricey. Easier to do it myself. I decided not to use reinforcement plates as the chute looked stout enough for directly welding bracket and lever arm for the cylinder (knowing that if I goofed, I could always go back, fix cracks, and do it right the second time :c). I planned the geometry so that the chute just fully opens and closes at the ends of the cylinder stroke with no over or under travel stress.

Holes are not drilled very cleanly or aligned very well. Some spray paint was very clearly used to touch up paint damage from drilling the holes.

 

[bumperm]

bumperm,

I am sure that it is somewhere in this thread, but what did you use for flow restrictors? I have 1/4 NPT at fittings on my hoses, cylinder and coupler. All the inline orfices that I am seeing online are either JIC or ORFS. I have thought about trying to build something with a washer or something to restrict flow and sandwiching it between my hose and coupler, but I am a bit affraid of the washer disintigrating under the pressure and going somewhere that would cause a lot of damage.

I made them on my lathe. On 1/4" fittings, I drilled the existing hole in the fitting and tapped it 1/4 -20, then annealed a 1/4 - 20 set screw and drilled the set screw part way with a 1/8" bit, then the balance with the .032" wire drill.

On larger fittings going to cylinder ports, I made a disk type plug that would be a press fit in the connector, center drilled plug .032, then TIG welded the plug in place.

Only one restrictor needed per cylinder.

I did the same for the 3-point top and tilt.

I searched on line for suitable restricters, and found some adjustable ones, but nothing I wanted to use. I'm sure they must make them though.

 

[bumperm]

Holes are not drilled very cleanly or aligned very well. Some spray paint was very clearly used to touch up paint damage from drilling the holes.

Strange. Wonder if a dealer had installed that option for someone who then waffled on it?

 

[bumperm]

I have 200 hours on my B3350 and was doing the service. For some inexplicable reason, I had it in my head that the hydraulic fluid needed to be changed at 200 hours. I didn't check the books until *after* I changed it - Dang, a bit early, oh well. The question:

The Maintenance manual, published date of 12-2012 gives the interval as every 400 hours. The Owner's manual that came with my tractor (can't find a date on it) gives the interval for replacing the fluid at every 300 hours. Which is right??

The spec for the fluid is the same in either book Kubota Super UDT2 fluid (the synthetic stuff), so that wouldn't be the reason for this interval discrepancy.

 

[sandyc]

According to owners manual 6c430-63131 dated 8/14, the hydraulic fluid and filter interval for changing is at 400 hours and then again at 800 and continue for each 400 hour interval.

 

[number two]

FWIW,my B3030HSDC-a very similar model-purchased in 2007 calls for the hydraulic fluid and filters to be changed at 50 hours and fluid and fitlers again every 300 hours thereafter.

 

[tk tom]

Dealer here has said time and time again as long as you are using quality fluids and not bottom shelf stuff then you should be fine in normal circumstances. Change your filters and top off regularly but don't worry about a complete fluid change unless there are conditions that warrant it - such as contamination, visibly dirty/used fluid, etc.

Not sure how much I agree with that but if you're not using the machine hard or changing connections frequently then I may agree with that to a point. Keep checking and make sure it looks clean, keep the filters changed regularly, and you should be fine. Hydraulic fluid is different from motor oil - now that I believe in changing frequently and the more often the better

 

[sandyc]

Kubota just linked to another company that will supply owners manuals in, dvd, pdf, or printed format. If you go to Kubota.com and look in the "other" category then to "service" option you'll find a option to purchase ops mans. I just got the pdf for my B3350hsdc that has an earlier version of the tier 4 procedure(it defaults to the inhibited mode and you have to push the "auto" button to go to that mode). Price was $15 usd and download was immediate! Looks like they have almost any manual you might require.

 

[Farmall45b]

Kubota just linked to another company that will supply owners manuals in, dvd, pdf, or printed format. If you go to Kubota.com and look in the "other" category then to "service" option you'll find a option to purchase ops mans. I just got the pdf for my B3350hsdc that has an earlier version of the tier 4 procedure(it defaults to the inhibited mode and you have to push the "auto" button to go to that mode). Price was $15 usd and download was immediate! Looks like they have almost any manual you might require.

It would be nice if they would offer the service and parts manuals on CD/DVD or .pdf download for a reasonable fee.

 

[sandyc]

If I remember, the printed or dvd versions are 25usd. Not too bad. Of course I would think that they should offer for no money as a knowledgeable owner is less apt to screw something up and have a warranty or satisfaction problem. Guess that's just me. I bet they have everything on electronic file and to share would be a very small expense to the company. Wonder if this is a profit center for them!

 

[sandyc]

Sitting here waiting for my new to me 3350 to finish its regen. Yeah! It works! So the first one for me was at 84.9 hours. Whoops just died. Time to call the dealer. ****. OK....operator error. When the regen light came on and I was in auto I should have placed the speed at full/2500 rpms. Instead I just kept going at 2000 and I guess that wasn't generating enough heat for the regen.
After everything shut down I couldn't start it or anything. After about half an hour I could start it and go into a parked regen. Worked fine....I guess I'll see if the next regen is an adventure. Onward and upward!

 

[bumperm]

sandyc,

My B3350 typically does a regen every 14 or a bit more hours. I've found that I can run it as slow as 2100 rpm or thereabouts and it will still complete the regen. Today I was running a PTO sprayer and wanted to turn off the PTO for short periods of time. To do that I briefly dropped to idle, disconnected PTO, then brought it back up over 2000 rpm again. Didn't seem to have any adverse effect on the regen cycle. My tractor is version 1.0 (okay guessing) but it's an early one purchased November '13 with the default being auto-regen off - I get to push the button after each start. If I'm just moving the tractor, or installing an attachment and need to move the hydraulics I'll leave the auto-regen switch off.

 

[sandyc]

Hi Bumpern...thanks for the info. I guess I have a version 1 also and this is a learning process to be sure. When the regen came on the first time I walked around the machine and I noticed that the exhaust temp appeared to be normal when I put my hand near the exhaust pipe. Thought to myself that would not cause any fires. Once I got it running in a parked regen the exhaust temp was very high and could cause a fire problem if I was parked in leaves or hay. Wow, what a difference! Most of my work so far has been clearing ice damaged trees in the woods so I have been running mostly without the auto button pushed. Other than trying to figure out what I have to do for Tier 4 deal I really love the machine and what it will do.
As an aside, I was talking to my dealer and he mentioned that he had heard that even the small engines in lawn tractors and other small implements are going to cat converters as well. Mentioned that in the future that tractors like ours are going to DEF fluid instead of using diesel to heat the filter. That will be another set of problems to be overcome!

 

[sandyc]

As an additional follow up I just moved a bunch of logs and it started right up and ran like a champ! Loved the A/C and watching the Mosquitos and horse flies trying to bite me.

 

[bumperm]

Santyc,

In my post above, I wasn't very clear. While I was using the PTO sprayer on the tractor, it started an auto-regen cycle. I still needed to disconnect the PTO a couple of times, and reducing throttle to idle briefly didn't interfere with the regen process. I though it might and was concerned, but no problem.

I have not had any recall work to do with regen, done on my tractor, now with 216 hours, have you?