Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints

[RFB]

Curious, I opened the air filter canister, the filter inside was entirely encased in ice crystals; in fact the canister was fully packed with ice. I pulled out both the outer and inner filters; the inner was a bit wet, but not frozen. I dried it out with compressed air, and re-installed with a new outer air filter.

That is very different, at least for me. Never heard of that one. My B3000 (same essential layout) has never encountered that issue and the air routing is the same.

I do not understand the dynamic that would cause ice in the air. Is there a possibility that your air filter got wet through washing, and then froze with the introduction of cold (-32f) air?

Where is the water coming from is the question?

 

[Dan W]

That is very different, at least for me. Never heard of that one. My B3000 (same essential layout) has never encountered that issue and the air routing is the same.

I do not understand the dynamic that would cause ice in the air. Is there a possibility that your air filter got wet through washing, and then froze with the introduction of cold (-32f) air?

Where is the water coming from is the question?

Engine air intake starvation is is very typical with onhighway trucks during winter snowstorm conditions. For we northern runners, it's normal to see inside/outside engine air intake diverters installed on truck air intake systems. Have any of you ever heard of an air filter being described as a snow cone maker? I've taken air filters out, smacked them on the shop floor and a nice ice/snow cone would slide off the filter. It's a common thing, so you did exactly the right thing by rerouting the air intake pipe to suck air from under the hood. My F3680 sucks its intake air from a fine screen area of the top and sides of the engine cover, this area gets completely iced up when blowing snow so the air is then naturally diverted from the top and sides, to being aspirated from the bottom, where there is less airborne snow.
Hope this helps some...


Dan

 

[RFB]

Interesting phenomenon; I have never heard of that.

 

[bumperm]

BadDog,

I can see you there blowing snow in that nice warm cab. Was the snow being blown back at you to get sucked into the air intake? The only other way I know of for ice to form on an intake filter would be due to the design of the system causing a low pressure area and subsequent condensation, cooling, and freezing of water vapor in the intake. The dual filter design might exascerbate that due to the low pressure area between the partially blocked outer filter and the inner filter.

Good fix moving the intake, however the warmer intake air being less dense will lower power slightly.

bumper

 

[BadDog]

Ice was definitely coming from snowblowing - particularly with a very fine, light snow that doesn't clump at all. To minimize drifting and maximize visibility, I set the blower to throw the shortest distance possible, and behind me as much as the blower will allow. This makes the snow 'explode' right around the front of the tractor as it hits the chute deflector on the way out. Leaving the air intake where it was would suck in air with snow in it, from the cloud of snow created by the snowblower. Simply moving the intake behind the radiator completely resolved the problem. I don't have this type of problem with heavy, wet, clumpy snow, as it doesn't 'explode' at all.

Any power loss from the warmer air is not really noticeable with this cold weather, there is more than enough power to get the job done. I was able to dry out the old filter - it only has about 10 hours on it, so I should be able to re-use it at the next service interval.

It's nice to have this problem resolved, I can leave the tractor outside 24/7 now and know that it will run when I need it, as long as I need it. Other than this issue I have had no problems with either the tractor or the snowblower and am very pleased with both.

 

[bumperm]

BadDog,

Are you using a block heater on your frozen tractor? I bought one from the dealer when I got the tractor, but haven't installed it yet, as I keep mine in a heated garage mostly (though right now it's at the airport in my hangar.

I think it's much kinder to the engine to use a heater of some sort in the cold. I preheat my aircraft engines when it's below 50 F, though they are a much different issue at they are air cooled and the cylinder walls are tapered (choked) so when up to temperature the walls are near parallel. Cold starts cause a *lot* more wear on them. And perhaps worse, one little ol' 4 cylinder 360 cubic inch engine costs more than a B50 series cab Kubota!

bumper

 

[rayclar]

baddog do you have any pics of how you routed you air intake. I have problems with my l4310 also.

 

[BadDog]

Bumperm, I've had tractors for 10+ years now and have never used a block heater. The engines are normally over-engineered for the abuse they take. Also, the climate here isn't that bad - I've lived in much worse. The local dealers leave their tractors outdoors year-round, and never use block heaters. Pick any dealer and visit them without an appointment, on the coldest day you can find, and ask to test drive the unit of your choice. I'll bet you a pair of wet socks they don't bother with a block heater. Years ago I worked on oil rigs in northern Alberta, where winter temps regularly saw -30C or much worse for several weeks straight. I would definitely use a block heater in those conditions. That said, I'd still rather park my tractor in the heated shop when not in use if I had the choice, but we seem to have one too many vehicles to allow that. It takes a special situation for my wife to allow me to park the truck in the riding arena, letting me park the tractor indoors. At least the tractor is out of the wind where it is parked due to the way our buildings are situated.

rayclar, I will put a pic up later. I just twisted the intake where it is clamped to the air cleaner housing. Normally the intake rests on the top of the rad, I twisted it so it would end on the other side of the rad, just enough so that it can fall behind the rad and let the hood shut normally. I know a pic is always better and I will get to it.

 

[BadDog]

rayclar, I just went outside to take a picture of the intake relocation for you. but it is -10F and the hood of the tractor is frozen shut! Will try again later.

 

[bumperm]

BadDog,

BTW, I like that name, my golden retriever (who my wife thinks is sometimes possessed) is named, Thumper Beelzepup H*ll-Fire Morgan. Should've named her "No-No Bad Dog.

In any case, I may tend toward the conservative side when it comes to caring for tools and equipment. I have small aircraft, on which an engine alone costs more than my Kubota. The aircraft get pre-heated below 50 F, while many recommend pre-heating below 40 F. They are air cooled and the cylinders are designed with "choke" being smaller at the head end, so that when up to temperature the bore is basically parallel. If started too cold, the rings can scuff and do other bad stuff. Still, the experts say that most wear occurs on start up and especially cold starts.

Pre-heaters are relatively cheap. I know the dealers won't bother with it, but I have way less tractors to deal with than them and I'll most likely be keeping this'un a lot longer than they'll be keeping theirs. If wear issues occur due to cold weather starts when the oil is thicker and doesn't circulate as well, it would be typically later on in the tractor's life when that becomes apparent.

all the best,

bumper

 

[bumperm]

Did the 50 hour service on my B3350. Changed the HST filter using the "shop-vac" method. Lost less than a cup of fluid initially and then it slowed to a drip. Good thing as for some reason I had a problem getting the new filter to start threading on. Without the vac it would have been one heck of a mess. Great idea -that, and thanks to all who've posted about it on this forum.

Oil change went smoothly too, except Kubota kind of buried the filler cap behind a couple of air conditioner tubes :c( . . . takes finesse with fingers to nurse the cap back into place and then thread it in.

Still, glad to get 'er done!

bumper

 

[robstaples]

Great thread. Thanks. Just got my B3350 and am having muscle memory problems with the HST. My L39(GST) drives like a car.. Right foot gas and brake, forward reverse on left side steering column. HST has no brake on right side. I almost took out my garage door pushing snow wanting to push something to stop forward motion. Solution s .. Just practice I guess.
I have just 3 hours on it and am waiting for warmer weather. Bought a magnetic block heater and it won't fit either tractor. L39 pan is nice and flat and aluminum and the 3350 is horseshoe shaped and frame in the way. My dealer sold me a Kubota water jacket heater that goes in a threaded freeze plug..ish hole. Instruction says 30 minute job. But will wait to get indoors. Too many things to disassemble. If I had known how it doesn't like too start in the cold( worst was 5 deg F), I'd have had the dealer do it before delivery.
Should be a included option with the rear glass defrost.
The coldest start had a puzzling feature. After like 5 long glowplug starts, it rattled and was running rough. The "!" Light was on with no other lights. The idle was low so I tried to raise the throttle. Lots on movement on the throttle arm but no engine effect. The manual said to restart the engine. Doing so, cleared the "!" Light and the throttle worked. There must be something other than mechanical linkage. Haven't tried to trace under the hood. Too cold!

 

[bumperm]

Rob,

Yes, there is more going on with the throttle than meets the eye. While it is best to push the auto regen button after start up and during normal tractor operation, if this is not done (due to operating tractor around combustibles etc) and the tractor "decides" it's really time for a regen cycle, it will indicate that a parked regen is an option. When doing the parked regen, the throttle is left at idle and the tractor's on board computer takes over, running the throttle both up to full and then back down to about 2000 rpm after the DPF gets to temperature. Almost like the **** thing is possessed!! :c) Bit it works!

I've only done a parked regen once, took maybe 20 minutes. I didn't time it as I went inside to have dinner and when I went back out it was finished and just sitting there at idle. (It really ought to shut down when done with parked regen, but they didn't program it that way as they tell you to not leave the tractor alone while it is exorcising itself or it's DPF demons.)

I too bought the screw in block heater but have not installed it. Tractor lives in a semi-heated garage so only "cold" starts have been limited to once or twice in the mid 30's. I've found it best to position throttle at mid point, then run the glow plugs for at least 10-15 seconds. If the engine rpm doesn't come up smoothly and it staggers and chokes along at barely idle rpm, I think it best to just shut it down and repeat start cycle again rather than waiting for it to die on its own. You can tell by the sound if it is gaining speed and going to smooth.

bumper

 

[2010drive]

Hey, Bumper

Sounds like you've been getting to use your tractor a bit:thumbsup:

After filling up my diesel truck and the tractor I got a water in fuel light in the truck on the ride home, I ended up having to have the trucks tank drained...long story short I drained the tractors fuel and replaced the fuel filter as a precaution. I am at 29.X hours and it was my first time even looking at the fuel filter canister:ashamed:. Curious as to what yours looks/looked like at your last glance? I have attached pictures of mine.

1. Original filter at 29.X hours

2. Clean canister with new filter before filling with fuel

3. Filled with fuel before starting engine.

4. After running for 10-15 minutes

 

[bumperm]

Whoa!

201drive, you've got a dose of contaminated fuel there! The bottom layer in picture 1 looks to be water. Picture 3 shows "cloudy" fuel that looks as if it may be carrying small water particles that have not yet settled out of suspension. Picture 4 bottom layer again is water. The water tends to settle out as the water molecules will not combine with diesel oil, though if agitated enough they can stay suspended for a relatively short while.
I would remove the filter bowl and clean it again. Do it soon and check it again often. Repeat each time you see water in the bottom of the filter and you may not have to replace the filter element if you can prevent it from getting fouled and clogged with water.

My filter looks clean with no sediment layer at over 50 hours. I'd be having a talk with your fuel supplier as they are responsible for selling uncontaminated fuel.

bumper

 

[2010drive]

Thanks for the info. It didn't look right to me either but I wanted some reassurance I will drain it tomorrow morning once I get back out there and report back:thumbsup:

 

[2010drive]

To add to my previous post...

When fueling up the pump was running fairly slow would I be correct in thinking their tank(s) were low and I was sucking up all the water/debris on the bottom of their tank(s)? As for going after them for paying to fix the problems caused by their fuel I don't think I would have much luck as I didn't get a receipt and it was 5 days ago now. But I did go on google and wrote a review on their page .

 

[2010drive]

Update:

Drained the canister a total of three times this morning.

1. Drained canister reinstalled and ran for a few minutes looked good.

2. Drained canister again just to be safe and a little bit out of the fuel tank, reinstalled canister ran it for 10-15 minutes looked similar to picture #4

3. Drained canister and a bit more out of the fuel tank, reinstalled canister and ran it for 15-20 minutes at 2300RPM


Final results attached...All looks well? I will be checking it before and after each use now. :thumbsup:

I don't know whats going on with the uploader it's attaching it crooked, just click on it and it fixes it.

 

[robstaples]

Has anyone run wires into the cab for snow blower control? Basic choices are thru the firewall or floor. I was just wondering if anyone had already done the investigation and found an easier way. I know cameras have been added to cabs but the wiring details aren't mentioned. I'm moving my snow blower from my L39 ( no cab) to my B3350. I ran the wires through orange 1/4 " air hose cut to length with magnets to hold the it to my frame for the L39. For control I have a 4 button pendent with magnets that I just clipped to the ROPS and it worked fine. The new cab is tight and the doors close tight so I have to come up with something else. Suggestions? thanks, rob

 

[bumperm]

Kubota installed the electric controlled 3rd function valve just ahead of the cab on the right side. Wiring goes back under the floorboard to a point near the inboard front edge of the fender, or a few inches to the right of the HST pedal and near it's aft edge. Looking under the fender from the outside, the wire goes up between the plastic fender well liner. Inside the cab, the wire runs up inside the void below the joystick, and then up the joystick to the button controls. (With the 3rd function option, the joystick is replaced with one that incorporates the control buttons).

If you want to get to the joystick area, this seems a good way to do it.

Otherwise, lift the floor mat and the sound insulation and see if you can't run your wires along with an existing wire run.

all the best,

bumper