Kubota B2650 and B3350 info and hints

[bumperm]

Very cool...I'd like to go full LED eventually with mine.

I thought about that too, but the LED's are *very* bright . . . they don't have any cut-off, so oncoming traffic will be blinded if the cab lights are left on. When snow blowing at night and it's still snowing, even the halogen lights woud probably be too much due to the snow reflection. The LEDs would blind you for sure.

bumper

 

[2010drive]

210drive,

When I first start my B3350, even though I use the glow plugs for the correct amount of time for the temperature (2-3 seconds as it's stored warm around 60 F), the engine starts within a second or two of cranking. But then it doesn't light off and run smoothly on all 4. Rather it misses and chugs along for a few seconds before it smooths out. It does this to a lesser extent even if the engine is already warm. Does your's behave in the same manner?

I've had 3 Kubotas before this one, so I'm familiar with the starting "drill" and none behaved this way. Just wondering if this is normal and maybe due to the DPF?

thanks for your input,

9.5 hours on the B3350 now!

bumper

Bumper,

I started mine up today and noticed it did the same thing. 40F, I primed for 5 seconds started at about half throttle (like the manual says) it chugged along right around 700RPM for 11 seconds before going up to 1300RPM mine was at 2.2 hours when this was done.

 

[bumperm]

201drive,

Most helpful . . . thks for the report!

Okay, here's what I think is going on. My limited understanding is that Kubota added the turbocharger on the 3350 to make up for the back pressure (restriction) caused by the DPF. So far so good, and I appreciate the turbo due to the altitude where I live (part of the reason I got the B3350 over the B2650). But, that turbo charger doesn't come up to speed right away, "turbo lag". This means the engine is starting against all that extra exhaust back pressure . . . this is doubtless causing a rich mixture condition due to the restricted air throughput until the turbo spools up. At least that's my guess. Make sense?

This is also probably the reason they suggest half throttle for starting . . . this, to get the turbo spinning and providing boost ASAP.

bumper

 

[2010drive]

Makes sense to me:thumbsup:

 

[bumperm]

There is one more thing that's not in the manual, but comes from aviation turbocharged engines of which I'm a little more familiar. Small turbos have sleeve bearings. To prevent oil coking due to the heat soaked turbo during shutdown, it's common practice to bring the engine speed down to an idle for 30 seconds or so to give the turbo bearings a chance to cool down. During this idle phase, the exhaust temperature is reduced while pressurized oil continues to carry heat away form the bearings, dropping the temps enough to avoid coking.

Not sure if this is applicable to our little turbo diesel, but that's the procedure I'm going to use until I learn otherwise.

bumper

 

[2010drive]

When you say down to idle how many RPM'S are we talking? Push the lever all the way down? (or up for that matter)

 

[bumperm]

Low idle, throttle lever up. Though if you've been operating at or below 1500 or 1600 rpm for several minutes, the turbo should be fine with an immediate shut down. In an aircraft, taxiing in is really good enough for the cool down. The idea is not to be running full throttle and turn off the key (worst case), or being at full throttle, decrease to idle and shut off the key with no delay (almost as bad as worst case).

It's just conjecture on my part that this is applicable to the B3350's turbo. Costs nothing to treat it nice though.

I asked dealer today if he had any idea of a range of hours one might expect before regeneration of the PDF is needed. He didn't. Of course it'll be variable, based on how the tractor is operated. The DPF itself has a long expected life - - something on the order of 4,000 hours I read somewhere. Good thing, a new one costs $2500. The DPF may be a bit of a hassle, but it is nice to start the trator and not have a billowing cloud of black smoke in the garage. Heck, I haven't seen any exhaust color at all on my 50.

bumper

 

[Toolguy]

My B3030 starts best with the throttle closed. If I open the throttle part way like the manual suggests it spits an sputters for a few seconds. With the throttle closed it starts and run smooth almost immediately.

 

[bumperm]

My B3030 starts best with the throttle closed. If I open the throttle part way like the manual suggests it spits an sputters for a few seconds. With the throttle closed it starts and run smooth almost immediately.

Toolguy,

No dispute . . . the B3350 is a different animal due to the exhaust restricting DPF (diesel particulate filter) and the turbocharger. Thus start proceedure is a little different than most other CUTs. The three other small Kubotas I've owned, including a BX24 I still have at another location, all start as you state.

The B3350 will start with the throttle closed too, at least in the moderate temperatures I've experiences so far - - however, it'll take longer to "smooth out" than when following the Owners Manual advice to use half throttle.

bumper

 

[Toolguy]

I love my simple, old school B3030 even more now!

 

[bumperm]

As well you should . . . good tractor from everything I've read. But the B2650 and B3350 do have some significant improvements and upgrades over their predecessors. And on balance, at least on the B3350, a turbocharger (good!) and a DPF (jury still out).

I initially was going to get the 2650, but as I live at 4880' (and normally aspirated engines loose some 3% power for every 1000' altitude gain), the turbocharged larger engine of the 3350 won out. I was concerned about the DPF, so read everything I could find to assure myself buying a tractor with a DPF wasn't a foolish mistake. Though I'd prefer to have the turbo *without* the DPF, it's inclusion does have benefits and the downside isn't severe - save for the initial cost.

bumper

 

[Toolguy]

I do like the left side brakes on the new models.

 

[2010drive]

I love my simple, old school B3030 even more now!

Because the 3350 doesn't get up to speed for 10 seconds?:laughing: I'll take the 10 second sacrifice for the greatly improved cab alone.

 

[2010drive]

Bumper,

Are you familiar with fluid film? Looks like it's a good solution for the snow blower chain FLUID FILM® | Corrosion Preventative, Lubricant and Rust Inhibitor

 

[bumperm]

No, I hadn't heard of Fluid Film. From their literature, they say it's a "wool wax" composition. In another spot they say it has a "unique lanolin base" (from sheep). They also tout it's corrosion prevention, battery terminals, salt environments etc. and in general the lubrication recommendations given are for applications that involve low speed bearing surfaces such as hinges, chains in salt spreaders etc., things some have used Corrosion-X, WD-40, and LPS-3 for - those products also primarily used to inhibit corrosion.

I would be leery of using Fluid Film, which looks to be a lanolin and wax product, for high pressure lubrication applications such as the reduction drive chain on a snow blower, unless the machine manufacturer recommended such. Not saying manufacturers always know best, they don't, but this would be a departure from what is normally recommended for a high stress, high film strength lubricant application.

Lanolin does make an excellent case lube for reloading

bumper

 

[2010drive]

I sent fluid film an email asking them if "fluid film NAS" would be a good lubricant for a high speed chain on a snow blower and this was their response...

Thank you for contacting Fluid Film. Yes, Fluid Film NAS is a great lubricant for all metal chains. It penetrates into the metal for long lasting protection. It´s unique formula of a lanolin base and no solvents means it will not evaporate easily.





Please feel free to contact me with any additional questions.



Best regards,



Amy Bruno

 

[rbarker]

I sent fluid film an email asking them if "fluid film NAS" would be a good lubricant for a high speed chain on a snow blower and this was their response...

Well as long as they say so it must be true! LOL

Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[2010drive]

Well they do have the best ratings/reviews out of any product/company I have ever researched before...I'll be the test dummy for you guys

 

[bumperm]

2010drive,

Seriously, I'm sure Fluid Film will do an adequate job of preventing your roller chain from rusting, even in a salt environment. Why am I not surprised they would tell you it'll provide great lubrication as well? Pressed further, they might also advise it's a superb hair dressing too - - remember "Afro Sheen"

However, I seriously doubt Fluid Film can come close to the high pressure lubrication qualities of either a good petroleum or synthetic based oil, such as 90 weight gear oil or any purpose specific product like chain saw bar oil or spray chain lubricant.

Fluid Film's lanolin and wax formulation is likely to fall short of your long term expectations. The result being more rapid wear of both sprockets and chain - - worn out, but no rust!

bumper

 

[bumperm]

With 13.5 hours on the tach, by B3350 started blinking the "regen light" so I pushed the "auto regen" button. The regen process took longer than I expected, almost half an hour, during which time I ran it at full throttle, 2500 rpm, and used the backhoe. During that first 13.5 hours, I tried to operate at moderate engine speeds and avoided idling for more than a few minutes. Still, to minimize PM in the DPF, it's better to run it at higher power settings . . . while the manual says not to do that during break for the first 50 hours.

I've ordered all the parts and bits from Surplus Sales to install the hydraulic deflector on my B2782 snowblower. Only thing I'll fabricate are the mounts for the cylinder.

bumper