KL 120 & 130 loader issue FIX READY

[dfkrug]

I am thinking of simply just fixing it myself.

That has been my inclination, too. The fix I envision is a rectangular
piece of 1/2" steel plate with a rectangular hole cut into it. I would
make this as large as will fit INSIDE the cross-tube. The rectangular
hole would be slightly smaller than the existing access hole in the tube.
I would weld on nuts to the inside of the piece so the access hole
cover bolts can be torqued tight. My reinforcement would be welded
in. This should add stiffness to the cross-tube and minimize the
weakness that the access hole causes. Furthermore, the reinforcement
adds a couple of pounds AND it does not change the dimensions of
the cross-tube. No re-painting, either. My homemade CK30 grille guard
comes very close to the existing access hole cover and any additional
thickness here would rub same. The factory grille guards on my other
units do not have this problem.

 

[VictorW]

dfkrug, your idea is what I had also invisioned. Engineers think alike. I believe that idea of a fix would be even stronger than what Kioti has designed. I do believe that a 3/8" plate would be fine as long as it was as wide as possible around the perimeter. I believe placing it on the outside, if clearance was not a problem, and welding the outside perimeter would give it more strength. I think Kioti just didn't want the dealers to have to do the welding job or have it sent out to a weld shop. A bolt on part is easier but I'm not to excited about those jack bolts. Now you have just created different stress points. As Steverino mentioned, additional maintenance to check the bolts and if service to the hydraulic lines is needed, then it all comes off.

 

[dig'em]

If welded steel cracked under the flex of the FEL then how do they expect us to believe boxing it in and clamping it with bolts can resist the same stress. Out of sight out of mind doesn't stop the cracks from growing. It's just harder to see the cracks under the extra plates and all those bolts.

 

[TBDonnelly]

It's my understanding this 'fix' was subjected to many hours of actual use before being approved for production. I guess we could all be arm chair quarterbacks and speculate about the end result. I'm glad Kioti followed through, included all the FEL's within the serial number sequence, wether cracked or not. ...and I applaud our TBN participating Kioti dealers for keeping us informed.

Oh, BTW....dig'em welcome to TBN.

Don

 

[IslandTractor]

If welded steel cracked under the flex of the FEL then how do they expect us to believe boxing it in and clamping it with bolts can resist the same stress. Out of sight out of mind doesn't stop the cracks from growing. It's just harder to see the cracks under the extra plates and all those bolts.

I guess I am willing to believe that the new cover and clamps will stiffen the torque tube and thereby reduce the stress on the corners of the inspection hole where the cracks occurred. The new cover will distribute the torque stress differently and also simply add metal. If the cracks had been at the junction of the torque tube to the loader arm this current fix would not make sense but I think it does make sense given where the weak point is on the corners of the inspection hole. I agree however that covering the whole thing up does create problems of its own (how to inspect the hoses, how to monitor for rust or propagation of existing cracks).

I am beginning to think that I'd like to install the thing myself as it will save me time, money and effort to dissassemble the FEL and transport it off island then 80 miles just to have someone bolt a new cover on. I'd want to be able to take it off once a year to check underneath anyway so if I am going to do that I might as well install it myself.

 

[PaPaGus]

From what I see the current torque tube is only welded to the inside of the loader arms, were as the round torque tubes on other loaders appear to go through the entire arm and is welled on both sides...in some cases plated. I can't help but wonder if strengthening the present torque tube is going to shift the stress to a concentrated area at weld connecting tube to loader arms.

 

[IslandTractor]

From what I see the current torque tube is only welded to the inside of the loader arms, were as the round torque tubes on other loaders appear to go through the entire arm and is welled on both sides...in some cases plated. I can't help but wonder if strengthening the present torque tube is going to shift the stress to a concentrated area at weld connecting tube to loader arms.

Good point. Even Kioti's own revised torque tube configuration is welded on both sides. On the other hand, the total length of weld may be about the same as the FEL arm junction with the trapazoidal torque tube on the "cracked" version does spread the load over a fairly large area.

 

[dfkrug]

dfkrug, your idea is what I had also invisioned. Engineers think alike. I believe that idea of a fix would be even stronger than what Kioti has designed. I do believe that a 3/8" plate would be fine as long as it was as wide as possible around the perimeter. I believe placing it on the outside, if clearance was not a problem, and welding the outside perimeter would give it more strength. I think Kioti just didn't want the dealers to have to do the welding job or have it sent out to a weld shop. A bolt on part is easier but I'm not to excited about those jack bolts. Now you have just created different stress points. As Steverino mentioned, additional maintenance to check the bolts and if service to the hydraulic lines is needed, then it all comes off.

Yes, if clearance is not an issue, then a plate like I described welded to the
outside of the tube could be stronger than one on the inside as it could be
welded on its outside perimeter. A large component of strength in this
kind of reinforcement is to be able to use bolts and nuts to secure the
inspection cover, allowing it to provide significant shear force resistance.
The factory inspection cover uses crappy self-tapping machine screws and
no nuts. It is no surprise that cracks start at these holes.

 

[Highbeam]

"rectangular piece of 1/2" steel plate with a rectangular hole cut into it...I would weld on nuts to the inside of the piece so the access hole
cover bolts can be torqued tight."

Couldn't you just tap the 1/2" plate to accept the bolts?

 

[dfkrug]

"rectangular piece of 1/2" steel plate with a rectangular hole cut into it...I would weld on nuts to the inside of the piece so the access hole
cover bolts can be torqued tight."

Couldn't you just tap the 1/2" plate to accept the bolts?

Sure could, but:
Welding nuts on = easy. Tapping holes in 1/2" plate = hard. I may even
wimp out and just use 3/8 plate. I will prob use 3/8" machine screws
(bolts). Also welded on nuts and thru-bolts would be stronger than
tapped holes, assuming the nuts are as thick as the plate.

It seems that Kioti is doing anything it can to avoid any non-factory
welding.