Kioti DK45 AC not getting cold

[wxtrendsguy]

2014 DK45 the AC is not getting cold. There is power to the unit. The AC belt is intact and ocassional squeals which is a traditional problem on this machine since day 1...(there is a tension pully which is a piece of dung) not aligned well and cannot be adjusted and teh bearing dies on it almost yearly. Big time flaw but not the issue today. Looking for steps to troubleshoot. What refrigerant does it use and can it be recharged?

 

[Zork]

2014 DK45 the AC is not getting cold. There is power to the unit. The AC belt is intact and ocassional squeals which is a traditional problem on this machine since day 1...(there is a tension pully which is a piece of dung) not aligned well and cannot be adjusted and teh bearing dies on it almost yearly. Big time flaw but not the issue today. Looking for steps to troubleshoot. What refrigerant does it use and can it be recharged?

If the belt squeals it probably has some charge.
The refrigerant should be identified with a tag near your service ports or on/near the compressor/ condenser.
Is the condenser clean?

 

[MinnesotaEric]

2014 DK45 the AC is not getting cold. There is power to the unit. The AC belt is intact and ocassional squeals which is a traditional problem on this machine since day 1...(there is a tension pully which is a piece of dung) not aligned well and cannot be adjusted and teh bearing dies on it almost yearly. Big time flaw but not the issue today. Looking for steps to troubleshoot. What refrigerant does it use and can it be recharged?

Blow out the condenser located in front of the radiator, and behind the oil cooler. If still not blowing cold, with AC on max settings confirm the AC clutch is spinning the AC compressor (AC off and the pulley spins; AC on, and the AC compressor clutch that uses an electromagnetic coil will also spin with the pulley telling you that the high and low pressure switches think the AC pressure is not out of range, ie, too low or too high).

If the AC clutch is spinning, then check and clean the two cabin filters on either side of the cab top that are located between the B and C pillars on the underside of the cap top and held in by two, plastic thumb screws. Remove the filters and blow them out with compressed air.

If the cab filters are not restricted, then either a mouse has made a home under the cab top, the blend air door has slipped on the cable (mouse home and the cable slipping on the blend air door that is connected to your warm and cold environmental control have both happened to me on my NX series), or the 134a refrigerant is low (less likely, but can). This is to say that at this point, if you still don't have cold air, you're removing the cab top. Your cab top comes off like my NX series so here is a video on the subject (and don't forget to remove the little knob on the end of the inside air flapper door at the top, rear of the headliner):

 

[RayIN]

Everything you need to know about 12V automotive-type air conditioning.

https://btrac.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/Service-Manual-Revision-1-2011.pdf

It does not address specifics like MinnesotaEric discussed though.

 

[wxtrendsguy]

Blow out the condenser located in front of the radiator, and behind the oil cooler. If still not blowing cold, with AC on max settings confirm the AC clutch is spinning the AC compressor (AC off and the pulley spins; AC on, and the AC compressor clutch that uses an electromagnetic coil will also spin with the pulley telling you that the high and low pressure switches think the AC pressure is not out of range, ie, too low or too high).

If the AC clutch is spinning, then check and clean the two cabin filters on either side of the cab top that are located between the B and C pillars on the underside of the cap top and held in by two, plastic thumb screws. Remove the filters and blow them out with compressed air.

If the cab filters are not restricted, then either a mouse has made a home under the cab top, the blend air door has slipped on the cable (mouse home and the cable slipping on the blend air door that is connected to your warm and cold environmental control have both happened to me on my NX series), or the 134a refrigerant is low (less likely, but can). This is to say that at this point, if you still don't have cold air, you're removing the cab top. Your cab top comes off like my NX series so here is a video on the subject (and don't forget to remove the little knob on the end of the inside air flapper door at the top, rear of the headliner):

Have not needed the AC since Apr 20 when a freeze completely destroyed my vineyard, the damage is extensive with 1000s of 15 yrs old vines just flat out killed. I hear there peaches, apples, pears, and most grapes from MI to NY to Virginia are gone. So after that happy note I have not been in a rush to fix the AC. However, since I may now be spending most of the summer yanking out vines I probably ought to address the AC. Going to checking the clutch tonight, checked refrigerant and its fine.

 

[grsthegreat]

Is the compressor actually engaging. On my dk45 i had a wire going to the pressure sensor short out. Easy fix. But that being said, mines a 2010 model and have had no issues on mine. I wonder why yours has so much issues . Mine freezes me out of cab. No bearing issues, no belt issues

 

[wxtrendsguy]

Is the compressor actually engaging. On my dk45 i had a wire going to the pressure sensor short out. Easy fix. But that being said, mines a 2010 model and have had no issues on mine. I wonder why yours has so much issues . Mine freezes me out of cab. No bearing issues, no belt issues

I am not sure if its engaging, thus plan is to check the clutch tonight and see if it engages, I have never tried it but I am told I should be able to see it. Then if its not engaging then I can visually look for a bad wire but at least I can steer the dealer toward the problem. Can't afford to have it sit at thier shop for a month this time of year.

 

[wxtrendsguy]

Blow out the condenser located in front of the radiator, and behind the oil cooler. If still not blowing cold, with AC on max settings confirm the AC clutch is spinning the AC compressor (AC off and the pulley spins; AC on, and the AC compressor clutch that uses an electromagnetic coil will also spin with the pulley telling you that the high and low pressure switches think the AC pressure is not out of range, ie, too low or too high).

If the AC clutch is spinning, then check and clean the two cabin filters on either side of the cab top that are located between the B and C pillars on the underside of the cap top and held in by two, plastic thumb screws. Remove the filters and blow them out with compressed air.

If the cab filters are not restricted, then either a mouse has made a home under the cab top, the blend air door has slipped on the cable (mouse home and the cable slipping on the blend air door that is connected to your warm and cold environmental control have both happened to me on my NX series), or the 134a refrigerant is low (less likely, but can). This is to say that at this point, if you still don't have cold air, you're removing the cab top. Your cab top comes off like my NX series so here is a video on the subject (and don't forget to remove the little knob on the end of the inside air flapper door at the top, rear of the headliner):

Ok checked the clutch and it is not engaging (not spinning when AC is cranked) did not see any obvious wire damage. Now what do I do?

 

[grsthegreat]

Theres a pressure switch that will kick off the clutch if pressures get too low.

On my unit, pressure was ok, so i traced wiring. I found this micro sized wire that led from wiring harness under shroud on lest side of seat that traveled to the pressure switch in engine compartment. Was open circuit. I ran new wire..all fixed. I swear it was a 30 gauge, hair thick wire. All other wires were nice and thick. Someone cheeped out.

 

[34Willys]

Before tracing wires, especially on a cabbed tractor, apply power and ground to the clutch coil connector and verify that it pulls the driven plate against the pulley. You should hear and see it pull in. Clutch coils do fail. If it operates when applying power, well, good luck.

Patrick

 

[wxtrendsguy]

Before tracing wires, especially on a cabbed tractor, apply power and ground to the clutch coil connector and verify that it pulls the driven plate against the pulley. You should hear and see it pull in. Clutch coils do fail. If it operates when applying power, well, good luck.

Patrick

Any idea where that is? And do I apply power by jumping off the battery with a wire? Its all 12 volt I am assuming...

 

[34Willys]

I don't know location on yours, but generally it's a 2 prong plug near the front of the compressor. It could be a 1 wire and use the case for ground, but not likely.
A power probe tool is best, but you could use wires from the tractor's battery, or any 12VDC source like a Milwaukee M12 battery or jumper box.
If you go the wire route, put a 10A fuse in the + wire. 14 gauge wire is plenty good.
If you can post a picture(s) of your compressor, we can probably confirm the coil connector.

Patrick

 

[wxtrendsguy]

I don't know location on yours, but generally it's a 2 prong plug near the front of the compressor. It could be a 1 wire and use the case for ground, but not likely.
A power probe tool is best, but you could use wires from the tractor's battery, or any 12VDC source like a Milwaukee M12 battery or jumper box.
If you go the wire route, put a 10A fuse in the + wire. 14 gauge wire is plenty good.
If you can post a picture(s) of your compressor, we can probably confirm the coil connector.

Patrick

Ok so that wasn't rocket science, found the connector right away, pulled the plug off and jury rigged a wire to and from the battery and bingo the clutch immediately engaged...so that's good. Which leaves me with electrical issue upstream however, before tracing wires I did find two minor issues. The plug was on the terminals loosely and not seated down well and there was a missing bolt which holds the AC compressor to the steel bracket at the other end. It seems when I had the tractor in the shop and all torn apart over the winter for the bad fuel pump and injectors they forgot to put that bolt in so the compressor is wiggling around. Reseated the plug and.....
Unfortunately when testing this morning the AC is still not working, the clutch is not getting power. So now the unfun task of tracing the wires begins with my little volt/conductivity meter, probably going to have to pull the top off the cab now.

 

[grsthegreat]

You need to verify system is full of freon. The pressure switch will cut off compressor if level is low

 

[wxtrendsguy]

You need to verify system is full of freon. The pressure switch will cut off compressor if level is low

Already did that and the gage says its full. Any idea where the pressure switch is?

 

[34Willys]

If you have a gauge, hook it up and power the coil with the engine running to see if you're 'in the numbers'. Static readings aren't telling you what happens once the compressor starts. Your compressor shaft could be sheared and not even internally turning the compressor vanes.

Patrick

 

[wxtrendsguy]

If you have a gauge, hook it up and power the coil with the engine running to see if you're 'in the numbers'. Static readings aren't telling you what happens once the compressor starts. Your compressor shaft could be sheared and not even internally turning the compressor vanes.

Patrick

So what I did so far was just run a set of wires up from the battery to cause the clutch to engage and that was successful. But when I tested the refrigerant coolant level I did so without the compressor clutch engaged which is not going to give correct readings. So if I am following along I need to directly power the clutch by jumpering over the pressure switch to get it to engage, start the tractor with the AC on and clutch engaged and then test the coolant level.
That makes sense since the instructions for the gage on the refrigerant can says the AC must be fully on when checking the level. No clutch = not on = incorrect readings from gage. Kind of stupid that you can't easily check the refrig level and need the AC running while at the same time the pressure switch could be locking out the AC from running due to low refrigerant.