JD Hydro Top link or Other

[nmu98]

I did not get the Top and Tilt when I ordered the tractor because of price, and I would almost never use the tilt. with a cab, i am not able to do things from the operators seat like I used to. With the I match, It would be nice to have the top hydro link.

My dealer will sell me the top link and eveything it needs to work for 226.00. I asked him about the check valves and he said it has none. He said the tractor will act as the check valve and said they would not leak down while running, but might after its turned off.

So.... I have read that ccm has a check valved unit? Anyone know the price? Anyone know why the valves are needed, and does anyone have experience with the JD one.

 

[jdbower]

Here are CCM's prices. My only issues with them have been self-created (the 2520 is a little too tight for the check valves so I have to be careful how I install them - I've destroyed two by crushing them with my implements when I could have just reversed the installation to avoid the issue). I couldn't compare to the JD models, but I know that the JD valve setups are frequently competitively priced to third party and provide a cleaner install.

 

[kennyd]

Chances are pretty good that the JD cylinder will leak down at least a little...the fluid usually bypasses the spool in the valve causing the cylinder to drift.

The CCM cylinder with the POCV will eliminate the possibility of that happening.

The price on the website is $185-$195 depending on the length.

 

[nmu98]

In researching it looks as if the JD one will be cleaner and the CCM will cost more ( 185 plus hoses 45 plus shipping) but probably be better.

The main uses for this tractor, 3 point wise, are an MX rotary cutter, 673 tiller, and a ballast box. I don't use the disc or back blade much at all.

It makes me wonder is the check valves are worth it to the clean install with the deere product.

 

[kennyd]

It makes me wonder is the check valves are worth it to the clean install with the deere product.

Here is another fact to consider that may help in your decision:
With a POCV on the cylinder, you can NOT "float" the 3PH. The cylinder will remain locked unless sufficient pressure (500 to 700 lbs. I think is the "cracking" pressure) is applied to the valve.

 

[nmu98]

That is something I never thought of. This is the first tractor i have bought witht he 3rd hydro connection in the back. So do you push the lever all the way forward until it locks like the front end loader? Float would be nice on the rotary cutter. Sometimes it moves more than my swing link allows...

I guess for what I am doing, the locked valves don't seem to be needed. If it were to move a little here and there I would not notice... or it would not hurt.

But the last thing I would want is for it to be spongy.

Anyone have the JD one?

 

[kennyd]

So do you push the lever all the way forward until it locks like the front end loader?

Yes, but not all machines have it...And it's an option on others. I just thought I would mention it.

There are a few here who have the JD setup, have you tried searching? There was a post not to long ago IIRC...

 

[nmu98]

Yes, I have been searching and reading for about an hour. I will tweek my search.

 

[Nuru]

Hello All, anyone have the JD Part number for Hydraulic Top link for the 3000 series units?

 

[nmu98]

I was drastically mislead by my dealer. I called back to get a part number and i was told this hydro top link was not a Deere kit. Evidently Deere wants 600 dollars to part out what you would need. The kit he wanted to sell me is a gannon, or tifco. Part # TLH01.

Needless to say I am going to call CCM...

I just have to figure out the legnth. The 18 to 26.5 or 20 to 32...

 

[jdbower]

I just have to figure out the legnth. The 18 to 26.5 or 20 to 32...

An important factor is if you use Pat's EZ Hitch. If so, estimate high. In general it's best to take a look at where your toplink is actually set with your implements (and don't forget the install process, I've got a few implements that need to be shortened to install) rather than the real toplink length, but exchanging toplinks is fairly easy so if you end up with one of each size it's not the end of the world.

 

[nmu98]

I use the Imatch.

Mine hangs out at about 24 most of the time. Thats whay I have an issue. Do I go for one that only goes 2.5 inches past where I normally am... Or go witht he one that is 6 inches past 24, but only 3 shorter. it seems to me that shorter would be more useful?

 

[jdbower]

How do you use your implements? I can see a rotary cutter wanting a shorter toplink to angle it up, that may allow you to back into tall brush a bit more cleanly (but it's also a bit on the dangerous side). A backblade may be better off with a longer link to angle it for more bite. A rear blade or a disc/plow may have other needs. Most of the implements you listed are generally best left level, so a hydraulic toplink may not be all that useful for them since you've got iMatch working (but that doesn't mean it's not a fun toy!).

 

[kennyd]

I was drastically mislead by my dealer. I called back to get a part number and i was told this hydro top link was not a Deere kit. Evidently Deere wants 600 dollars to part out what you would need. The kit he wanted to sell me is a gannon, or tifco. Part # TLH01.

Needless to say I am going to call CCM...

I just have to figure out the legnth. The 18 to 26.5 or 20 to 32...

I thought the price for the JD cylinder was cheap. You will not regret getting the CCM one.

 

[jinman]

I use the Imatch.

Mine hangs out at about 24 most of the time. Thats whay I have an issue. Do I go for one that only goes 2.5 inches past where I normally am... Or go witht he one that is 6 inches past 24, but only 3 shorter. it seems to me that shorter would be more useful?

I'd be cautious about going too long unless you ever plan to install a Pat's system or other quick hitch. I found on a previous hydraulic toplink that I could extend it so far that my boxblade's bottom would rotate far enough forward to hit my tires. I think I'd opt for the 18 to 26.5 length.

The CCM toplink is rock solid, not spongy whatsoever. I really like mine. I had one before that was from bailey.net with 1/2" hoses. It had almost a full inch of spongy play and it made a big difference in using my boxblade. Anything bigger than 1/4" hoses is a waste. I even have a 0.031" restrictor orifice in mine to give me very fine control. Also, I don't know how you could get a neater install than the one from CCM. I have 36" hoses on my NH TC45D and they are perfect. The only way it could look neater on your tractor is if you paint it JD green.

 

[jdbower]

I don't know how you could get a neater install than the one from CCM.

The cylinder itself is great (although I prefer black to JD green - anything but the baby blue it came in ), but if there was a JD kit for my rear SCV addition it would look a lot prettier than my oversized Prince valve setup (not supplied from CCM). If available my choice would be a CCM toplink but a JD rear SCV setup.

Fully agree on the "rock solid" description, you'd never know it was hydraulic until you need adjust it.

 

[nmu98]

Thanks for all the advice. I am going to order tomarrow after 1:30 when the guy gets in. My tiller would be nice to adjust, but very little. I would love to use this to be able to lift the rotary cutter off the ground farther for travel or cleaning. I think the suggestion of the 18 to 26.5 wis probably correct. I am going to go out and adjust mine to those and see the angles of the imatch.

I rarely use the back blade, but I do use my disc, but that is ussually level.

Anyone with a 3x20 have a ccm? What one?

Thanks for all the insight.

BTW, do the Pioneer QD's work on the JD rear SCV's?

 

[jdbower]

In case it helps, here's a post on my installation adventure including part numbers. If you mean the Power Beyond port then the 2520 has Parker fittings. If you mean a rear SCV connection then the 2520 uses Pioneer fittings but the Buyers fittings that Northern Tool sells work fine. Of course, the 3x20 tractors (or even tractors from other dealers/sales dates) may use different fittings.

 

[nmu98]

In case it helps, here's a post on my installation adventure including part numbers. If you mean the Power Beyond port then the 2520 has Parker fittings. If you mean a rear SCV connection then the 2520 uses Pioneer fittings but the Buyers fittings that Northern Tool sells work fine. Of course, the 3x20 tractors (or even tractors from other dealers/sales dates) may use different fittings.

Thanks for the link. I was out tonight and ran my rotary cutter at 26.5. It was as far back as I would go with that. Would have been nice to be able to pic it up off the ground when lifted......

Still don't know what one to buy..... 20 to 28 would have me sold.... or 19 to 29.... Dunno...

 

[jgrreed]

Are you guys using your 3rd SCV, or the diverter valve kit to run the top link?? Just wondering, incase I ever wanted to use a hydraulic angle on a blade, rake, or blower. The diverter kit is pretty expensive, just wondering your opinions on if it's worth it. Would the Top link drift down enough during regular use to be a problem ?? - ie. if I had the blower on the back and switched the diverter switch to run the FEL, would the blower sag???

-J.