In the Hunt for a BX

[TresCrows]

For a comparison see attachment and also attachment of last post. This one is the BX, see that both have a nice bucket full.
J

 

[RET]

Gentlemen,
Thanks for all the info, insights, opinions, and pics.
I'm gonna broaden my horizons a bit and take a look at bigger rigs, maybe a few different paint colors, etc.
Then, I'll sort through it all again and see if the answer comes up BX, B or some other color (unfortunately, the other colors, except for green, do not have nearly the depth of discussion I find here!)
I'll be back with more questions soon!
R

 

[EdDekker]

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

... with any of the BX or B series they simply lack the power to pull that box with tines down through heavy soil especially if it is filled with roots from that brush. You need an L series to do that.

<hr></blockquote>



TresCrows,
I can comment on a B series ripping capability. I have a B2400 and this fall helped a neighbor put in a lawn in extremely poor, extremely rocky soil (extremely rocky by New Hampshire standards is a strong statement). I ripped the lawn area with a Landpride Landscape rake with guide wheels and have never had problems with traction/power. (I have added the fold down blade option for the rake but don't have enough experience using it to comment.) The landscape rake may be easier to pull


I expect that the BX would have a bit traction since it does have less mass, however with Ag tires I would expect it to be able to pull a scarifier. The landscape rake would be no problem for the BX with turf tires.

RET,
You may want to read the tire choice threads. You should consider the choice between Ag and turf tires. The Ag tires will be far better for the heavy work. The turf tires are better for lawn mowing. Messages in the tire threads have reported that a set of wheels and tires for the BX run $300, if true it is far cheaper to have both for the BX than the B series.


As the others have said the BX can do what you have described, just slower than a larger tractor. The BX is a good machine and if you really will use the tractor nearly exclusively for lawn mowing in a few years, it is a good choice for you.

One warning as Bird said earlier this month "Lots of folks trade UP in size, very few trade DOWN. Get the biggest thing you have room to maneuver and can afford."

Projects have a way of appearing after you have the tractor. The projects will be easier (and more fun) with a larger tractor.

 

[TresCrows]

Thanks Ed for the encouraging report of your 2400. I have not had mine long enough to fully appreciate it's capabilities as I am still becoming aquainted with it and having fun running back to back tests against my BX. At what RPM do you pull your boxblade, for example, in the work you mentioned? I generally run both tractors about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle.
J

 

[RET]

Ed,
Thanks for the testimonial. I'm impressed!
It comes down to whether or not, for my uses, the extra ~$2500 for the 7500 vs the BX2200 is justifiable (FEL + Tractor price difference comes up in this ballpark). The idea about the spare set of tires is good too. But, I have talked to several folks in my area who say that their R4's do not make a mess of the yard - so more than likely I'll go with R4's initially - then purchase turfs if necessary later.

Question: If you could only purchase 2 Implements (other than the FEL) for yard prep and mild land clearing, what would you purchase (scarifier, rake, Box blade, tiller, etc...)?
R

 

[Bird]

TresCrows, I normally run my tractor in 4WD at approximately 2200 rpm using the box blade and/or front end loader. Most of the time I can pull all 5 scarifiers through this clay that way with no problem. However, when it's hard and dry and I do that in ground with good vegetation coverage and good roots, I'll have to raise the rpm, occasionally have to use the differential lock and occasionally even have to raise the scarifiers to not go full depth. It just depends on the existing conditions.

 

[EdDekker]

<blockquote><font size=1>In reply to:</font><hr>

... At what RPM do you pull your boxblade, for example, in the work you mentioned? I generally run both tractors about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. ...

<hr></blockquote>



I usually open up to full throttle and back off a little bit.

I don't have a boxblade. I have most of the boxblade functionality with the Scarifier and the landscape rake with fold down blade.

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>If you could only purchase 2 Implements</font color=blue>

Box blade and tiller. No doubt about it, 'cause that's what I did (and still use the most)./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif Of course, I'm sure some other folks have some other ideas and will disagree./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

 

[TresCrows]

Thanks for the imput Bird and Ed.
RET, one thing you may not know yet, for the BX there is not an R4 tire choice--only the bar and the turf at this time. The bar tires are a fatter or should I say wider foot print that typical ag type bar tires. They work best with the loader but because they are fairly wide they do not impact your lawn unreasonably as long as you can stay off of it when it is wet and soft. I imagine once that St Augustine/Bermuda Mix gets up to speed they will be fine.
If you decide to go with the 7500 then R4 type tires are available. I was thinking that the larger wheel diameter of the 2410 equipped with R4 tires would provide a softer ride than the BX--at this point I would have to say that the BX ride is approximately equal to the 2410, I suspect this is because the R4 tires are very stiff sidewalls.
More to learn all the time!
J

 

[EdDekker]

RET,
A good thread on tire selection was glenmac's Ag Elimination Rule <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=implement&Number=40080&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1>http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showflat.pl?Cat=&Board=implement&Number=40080&page=&view=&sb=&o=&vc=1</A>
I started with the turf tires. When I wanted a more durable, higher traction tire I decided to get the Ag (R1) tires. I was afraid that R4 tires would not give me enough traction. I didn't want to end up with three sets of tires.


Implement choice depends on the details of your first projects.

For me the first implements would be the finish mower (3 point), rototiller, and snowblower. (I doubt the snowblower would be useful to you.)

I started with the 54 inch mid mount mower. I think it is sufficient to say the designer must be a midget contortionist ********* sadist. Installing or removing the mid mount mower was literally a painful experience. I sold the mid mount mower and bought a three point finish mower. The 3 point mower is much easier to change. (A Freedom Hitch makes changing three point implements trivial.) (I understand that the 60 and 72 inch mid-mount mowers are better but I have not tried them.)

The rototiller was purchased to allow me to have a good sized garden. It is also useful for preparing a lawn area for seeding, but in this part of the country the big and medium sized rocks must be extracted first.


If I was not planting a garden the boxblade with internal scarifier blades or the combination of a scarifier and separate landscape rake would be more important. I chose the landscape rake and scarifier to cover the functions of a boxblade and also help windrow the small (softball sized and smaller) rocks from my garden and lawn. and help prepare the lawn for seeding. The rake (with guide wheels) is (arguably) better than a box blade for final contouring a lawn.


The clamp on forks are another incredibly useful accessary. With the forks I can move pallets around the garage and house. I can unload pallets from a trailer or pickup. I can pick up and move brush piles. I have even used the forks to carry boxes from the garage around the house to the walk-in basement.

 

[RET]

J, Ed, Bird,
I'm learning more with each dumb question I ask!
Some comments:
I only have a very small garden (30x50' or so). I bought a new front tine, self propelled rototiller this past summer when I had conceded that a new tractor was out of reach for a few years (sure wish I had waited now!)
I'll probably have to shop the used implements dealers and the newspaper ads for some of the toys I want for the tractor. It would probably be a waste to try to buy EVERYTHING new, especially implements I will only use occassionally. A little cleaning, sandblasting, and a can of orange paint may be able to get me through.
What's the going price on a tiller? I've never looked before.

 

[therrien]

TresCrows
I'm happy to hear about your new machine, and am looking forward to hearing how it compares to the BX.
After my heavy work is done in the yard I'm looking to sell my B1700 TLB and buy the BX. One consideration I have is the lack of position control, but I will probably just be using a rake with gage wheels.
looking forward to hearing more.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Dekker wrote: Changing from mowing to using a three point implement was literally a painful experience. I sold the mid mount mower and bought a three point finish mower.

Makes me wonder about removing the MMM on a BX. Since I hope to buy a BX this spring/summer I'd be curious if anyone can comment on ease of removing mid- mower and FEL on the BX tractors.

Thanks,
Scott

 

[Bird]

<font color=blue>What's the going price on a tiller?</font color=blue>

EXPENSIVE! In '95, I gave $1,300 for a 40" Bush Hog, and if I were buying one today, I'd probably give about $1,000 for a 60" KingKutter./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif

 

[TresCrows]

Scot, the BX is very user friendly. The MMM snaps in and out with very little fuss--no fuss--it is a piece of cake, same with the FEL, snaps on and off with ease--it does take a little bit of "technique" which you will quickly aquire. You will be happy with how easy the BX transforms from lawnmower to utility tractor. If it where green I would say it is a chameleon but since it is not------.
It really cannot be easier than this.
J

 

[TresCrows]

RET, I have now convinced myself you should get the B7500. It is a step up from he BX though not a large one and it still does not have position control (which is handy but not an absolute need). What the B7500 will let you do is access the used market for implements a bit easier though I hate to tell you that none of these "little" tractors are going to be able to use the "farm" type stuff I generally come across eveytime I want to find something used.
The 7500 is a step up in utility tractor capability, as I said, but it is a step back in mowing capability and the BX MMM and FEL actually remove easier--especially the MMM---my 2410 takes some effort and head scratching (I am just spoiled). You need to go try them out at a dealer. You could remove the ROP on either to get under your Live Oaks--though I do not recommend that.
J

 

[EdDekker]

I can give you a little more detail on my problems with the 54 inch mid mount.

The mower is lifted by the same hydraulics which lift the three point hitch. If you try to use a three point with the deck in its operating position the mower will go up and down with the three point implement.

There are holes provided to pin the mower up to allow the three point hitch to be used without completely removing the mower. The holes for the pins are about an arms length inside the gap between the mower and tractor (it would have bee so simple if they were near the outside) Reaching in was almost possible with a hand my size. The only way I managed to get the pin in was position from under the side and than pushing the pin completely in from the rear with a 4 foot piece of wood. Thie first few times this ment that pinning up the deck was a two man job, one to push the wood tool from the rear of the tractor. I eventuly worked out a way I could do it myself. Than back to the side to insert the clip in the hole of the pin. The process always requires the sacrifice of skin from my hand and some precious bodily fluids. Reversing the process was slightly easier, I did not need the wood push tool to pop the pin out, but I still needed to reach into the sharp metal.

Removing the deck completely turned out to be easier than pinning the deck up but still required the sacrifice of skin and precious bodily fluids.


From reading the old messages here I discovered that much of the problem is unique to the 54 inch mower.