czechsonofagun
Elite Member
We are dealing with a dog situation and I found this text. It is an interesting reading, sums up my experience too:
Category: Common Problems ､
Author: Melinda Johnson ､
Title: Managing A Multiple Dog Household ､
In-Home Multiple Dog Management
It's far better to AVOID fights then to try to break one up. There are
some dogs that will never fight, but many perfectly good dogs will. Here
are some suggestions for pack management with dogs who might fight:
1.) All meals are served in the dogs' crates, behind baby gates, or in
separate, closed-door rooms. This prevents fights over food and also stops
the 'piggy' dog from chowing down all the goodies out of the 'skinny' or
shy dog's bowl. Nobody should be put in a position of defending their
food. Mealtimes should be peaceful.
2.) Forget such treats as pigs' ears altogether; they're almost a
guaranteed fight. Any treat that is considered so special that it might
cause a fight should only be served in closed-door crates or rooms, and
confiscated by
you when the dog is released from confinement. If there's only a MILD
chance of a fight over something like a rawhide or chew hoof, if you have 6
dogs, throw _at least_ 12 hooves or rawhides down. Go back five minutes
later and re-divide the piles. By that time, the alpha dogs will have
hoarded the lion's share. Recheck at periodic intervals, and stay close
by. One of anything like a Buster Cube is circumspect as a fight-starter
unless you have very mellow dogs.
3.) Never serve special treats unless you're right there to supervise all
interaction. Never throw down new chew toys and then leave for work,
leaving your dogs loose.
4.) Keep an eye on your dogs. Be aware of any strutting, stiff body
postures, trying to get 'taller' over another dog, staring, or anything
that could look like one dog is challenging another. If you see it, stomp
your foot on the floor (noise interruption) and say (in your firm voice),
"KNOCK IT OFF!". When this breaks up the behavior, immediately praise and
love up everybody. Better yet, click and treat! Remove any object such as
a food dish or toy that is causing the problem.
5.) Never, never, never champion and defend a beta dog because it's
depressed at it's pack position or because you feel sorry for it!!! Do NOT
mess with whatever the dogs think their pecking order might be. To do so
is to invite bloody fighting and to make the beta dog think 'god/goddess'
is on her side. After a few days of you defending her/him, your beta dog
may turn into 'the hound from ****'.
6.) If a beta who is challenging an alpha dog for pack position keeps
climbing into an alpha dog's crate and sleeping there, keep the crate door
closed at night to prevent this. This is a classic challenge for pack
position.
7.) Dogs are very competitive in a pack. This means they may have
contests to see who can play harder, run faster, corner tighter, and other
such games. As long as this remains friendly, it's OK. But keep in mind
the whole picture of your dogs' lives together when you're evaluating the
situation.
8.) Another time dogs are likely to fight is at the fenceline when there's
a distraction such as another dog on the other side of the fence, or even
over who's first to answer the front door when guests arrive. You might
think about this before you leave the house and leave dogs who have fought
before loose in these areas.
10.) Make sure everybody gets their fair share of meals, treats, toys,
petting, play, training and attention so there's no need to fight for these
things.
11.) There are no absolutes.
Every time pack management questions arise, several people will suggest
that you allow the dogs to work things out alone. They'll assure you that
this is the only way to go. Sometimes this can work, but this is dependent
on the breed, individual temperaments and respective sizes of the dogs
involved. Use your better judgement. Don't let a Rottweiller freely go at
a Yorkie or a 2 year old pick on a 15 year old. Often these remarks are
followed by someone telling how they lost a dog (evenly matched in breed
and size to it's opponent) to a dogfight by following this philosophy.
My own decision is be informed, and to observe carefully and use my
intuition. If I feel like standing back, because the tussle is mild, the
dogs appear to be evenly matched, neither dog is too aggressive and there's
little history of problems in that arena, I stand back. If one dog is
being harrassed repeatedly by another and the calm dog finaly says,
"Enough!", I let that be. I will put an end to the harrassment myself if I
think i'ts gone on too long. If I decide to intervene based on the gravity
of the situation, my past observations watching tensions build, or because
my instincts tell me to, I step in without guilt or doubts. The potential
risk is too great and I know of dogs who have done hundreds of dollars of
injury to other family dogs in the time it takes you to say, "Jack
Robinson". Life and homeownership seem to find enough ways to take away my
money without my having to spend it at the veterinarian because of dog
fights. Besides, I love all my dogs too much to want any of them hurt or
worse, dead.
Two males together in the same house can be a tricky proposition. In many
breeds, it's not recommended. Even in breeds reputed for getting along
well, there can be two individuals (male or female) who have endless
problems. The problems usually arise at the onset of ****** maturity for
the younger or beta dog, but can happen between spayed/neutered dogs or
*******, at any time and for reasons you may never be able to fathom.
Opposite sexes are less likely to fight, but it can happen.
Remember that if you have more than two dogs, several dogs can gang up
against one dog and may not stop until that dog is dead. Packs may turn on
their own if the victim is old or sick, and occasionally they will even
turn on the very young. Protect puppies, geriatric, and ill dogs by
keeping them separated from stronger pack members when you're away from
home and with supervision when you are home.
Here's one thing you might try if you have one perpetrator and one victim.
Do you wear a particular cologne or hand lotion? Try applying your scent
to the victim for a week or two and see what happens. Dogs are VERY
scent-oriented. You smell like love, warmth, food, water, all the good
things in life. Making the victim dog smell like you might have the effect
of stopping aggression and building friendships. This works with cats,
too.
Remember that in a pack situation, a dog may act out by chewing, soiling,
or displaying other troublesome behaviors. These may be a result of
something you did, changes in living arrangements or schedules, additions
or subtractions of family or pack members, or simply a response to another
dog's actions. Sometimes it's hard to guess why things aren't going right,
so don't always blame yourself.
Each dog is different. Each situation has to be independently evaluated.
If dog fighting in your home is just an inoccasional nuisance, do what you
need to do to live with it and prevent fights. However, if the situation's
making your life or your dog's life miserable, be willing to carefully
place a dog with another loving family and get back to having a harmonious
home. Life's too short to be miserable, and your dog's life is even
shorter. Make sure it's a good one. If you place one dog, be alert to
changes in pack dynamics. Another dog might try to take the first dog's
place as antagonizer.
- Know in your own mind the differences between what you will tolerate and
what you will not. Set your house rules and stick to them. It's your
life, your house, and your dogs. Within the bounds of being reasonable and
fair, within the bounds of humane treatment, it's your call.
- Don't worry about being alpha; just be clear within yourself and your
dogs will know you are the boss.
- Keep learning.
- Observe your dogs carefully.
- When in doubt, it's better to be safe than sorry. Don't take risks,
especially with a dog who has fought or bitten before. Use adult
supervision, leashes, neutering/spaying, closed doors and gates, or
whatever is needed.
- Experiment; if what you're doing isn't working, try something else. Try
to give changes time to work.
- Use your clicker and treats to reward behaviors you like.
- Don't drive yourself crazy trying to figure out what a dog is thinking.
- Don't beat yourself up crying over mistakes you think you may have made.
Life goes on.
- All's fair in love and war, and that includes breaking up a serious dog
fight with a broom, or whatever means you can find. An emergency is an
emergency.
- Be good to yourself. Take breaks. Take a bubble bath. Take a vacation.
- Don't do anything against your better judgement, no matter who said to do
it. Trust your observation and intuition above all.
Melinda Johnson
Copywrite 1997
Category: Common Problems ､
Author: Melinda Johnson ､
Title: Managing A Multiple Dog Household ､
In-Home Multiple Dog Management
It's far better to AVOID fights then to try to break one up. There are
some dogs that will never fight, but many perfectly good dogs will. Here
are some suggestions for pack management with dogs who might fight:
1.) All meals are served in the dogs' crates, behind baby gates, or in
separate, closed-door rooms. This prevents fights over food and also stops
the 'piggy' dog from chowing down all the goodies out of the 'skinny' or
shy dog's bowl. Nobody should be put in a position of defending their
food. Mealtimes should be peaceful.
2.) Forget such treats as pigs' ears altogether; they're almost a
guaranteed fight. Any treat that is considered so special that it might
cause a fight should only be served in closed-door crates or rooms, and
confiscated by
you when the dog is released from confinement. If there's only a MILD
chance of a fight over something like a rawhide or chew hoof, if you have 6
dogs, throw _at least_ 12 hooves or rawhides down. Go back five minutes
later and re-divide the piles. By that time, the alpha dogs will have
hoarded the lion's share. Recheck at periodic intervals, and stay close
by. One of anything like a Buster Cube is circumspect as a fight-starter
unless you have very mellow dogs.
3.) Never serve special treats unless you're right there to supervise all
interaction. Never throw down new chew toys and then leave for work,
leaving your dogs loose.
4.) Keep an eye on your dogs. Be aware of any strutting, stiff body
postures, trying to get 'taller' over another dog, staring, or anything
that could look like one dog is challenging another. If you see it, stomp
your foot on the floor (noise interruption) and say (in your firm voice),
"KNOCK IT OFF!". When this breaks up the behavior, immediately praise and
love up everybody. Better yet, click and treat! Remove any object such as
a food dish or toy that is causing the problem.
5.) Never, never, never champion and defend a beta dog because it's
depressed at it's pack position or because you feel sorry for it!!! Do NOT
mess with whatever the dogs think their pecking order might be. To do so
is to invite bloody fighting and to make the beta dog think 'god/goddess'
is on her side. After a few days of you defending her/him, your beta dog
may turn into 'the hound from ****'.
6.) If a beta who is challenging an alpha dog for pack position keeps
climbing into an alpha dog's crate and sleeping there, keep the crate door
closed at night to prevent this. This is a classic challenge for pack
position.
7.) Dogs are very competitive in a pack. This means they may have
contests to see who can play harder, run faster, corner tighter, and other
such games. As long as this remains friendly, it's OK. But keep in mind
the whole picture of your dogs' lives together when you're evaluating the
situation.
8.) Another time dogs are likely to fight is at the fenceline when there's
a distraction such as another dog on the other side of the fence, or even
over who's first to answer the front door when guests arrive. You might
think about this before you leave the house and leave dogs who have fought
before loose in these areas.
10.) Make sure everybody gets their fair share of meals, treats, toys,
petting, play, training and attention so there's no need to fight for these
things.
11.) There are no absolutes.
Every time pack management questions arise, several people will suggest
that you allow the dogs to work things out alone. They'll assure you that
this is the only way to go. Sometimes this can work, but this is dependent
on the breed, individual temperaments and respective sizes of the dogs
involved. Use your better judgement. Don't let a Rottweiller freely go at
a Yorkie or a 2 year old pick on a 15 year old. Often these remarks are
followed by someone telling how they lost a dog (evenly matched in breed
and size to it's opponent) to a dogfight by following this philosophy.
My own decision is be informed, and to observe carefully and use my
intuition. If I feel like standing back, because the tussle is mild, the
dogs appear to be evenly matched, neither dog is too aggressive and there's
little history of problems in that arena, I stand back. If one dog is
being harrassed repeatedly by another and the calm dog finaly says,
"Enough!", I let that be. I will put an end to the harrassment myself if I
think i'ts gone on too long. If I decide to intervene based on the gravity
of the situation, my past observations watching tensions build, or because
my instincts tell me to, I step in without guilt or doubts. The potential
risk is too great and I know of dogs who have done hundreds of dollars of
injury to other family dogs in the time it takes you to say, "Jack
Robinson". Life and homeownership seem to find enough ways to take away my
money without my having to spend it at the veterinarian because of dog
fights. Besides, I love all my dogs too much to want any of them hurt or
worse, dead.
Two males together in the same house can be a tricky proposition. In many
breeds, it's not recommended. Even in breeds reputed for getting along
well, there can be two individuals (male or female) who have endless
problems. The problems usually arise at the onset of ****** maturity for
the younger or beta dog, but can happen between spayed/neutered dogs or
*******, at any time and for reasons you may never be able to fathom.
Opposite sexes are less likely to fight, but it can happen.
Remember that if you have more than two dogs, several dogs can gang up
against one dog and may not stop until that dog is dead. Packs may turn on
their own if the victim is old or sick, and occasionally they will even
turn on the very young. Protect puppies, geriatric, and ill dogs by
keeping them separated from stronger pack members when you're away from
home and with supervision when you are home.
Here's one thing you might try if you have one perpetrator and one victim.
Do you wear a particular cologne or hand lotion? Try applying your scent
to the victim for a week or two and see what happens. Dogs are VERY
scent-oriented. You smell like love, warmth, food, water, all the good
things in life. Making the victim dog smell like you might have the effect
of stopping aggression and building friendships. This works with cats,
too.
Remember that in a pack situation, a dog may act out by chewing, soiling,
or displaying other troublesome behaviors. These may be a result of
something you did, changes in living arrangements or schedules, additions
or subtractions of family or pack members, or simply a response to another
dog's actions. Sometimes it's hard to guess why things aren't going right,
so don't always blame yourself.
Each dog is different. Each situation has to be independently evaluated.
If dog fighting in your home is just an inoccasional nuisance, do what you
need to do to live with it and prevent fights. However, if the situation's
making your life or your dog's life miserable, be willing to carefully
place a dog with another loving family and get back to having a harmonious
home. Life's too short to be miserable, and your dog's life is even
shorter. Make sure it's a good one. If you place one dog, be alert to
changes in pack dynamics. Another dog might try to take the first dog's
place as antagonizer.
- Know in your own mind the differences between what you will tolerate and
what you will not. Set your house rules and stick to them. It's your
life, your house, and your dogs. Within the bounds of being reasonable and
fair, within the bounds of humane treatment, it's your call.
- Don't worry about being alpha; just be clear within yourself and your
dogs will know you are the boss.
- Keep learning.
- Observe your dogs carefully.
- When in doubt, it's better to be safe than sorry. Don't take risks,
especially with a dog who has fought or bitten before. Use adult
supervision, leashes, neutering/spaying, closed doors and gates, or
whatever is needed.
- Experiment; if what you're doing isn't working, try something else. Try
to give changes time to work.
- Use your clicker and treats to reward behaviors you like.
- Don't drive yourself crazy trying to figure out what a dog is thinking.
- Don't beat yourself up crying over mistakes you think you may have made.
Life goes on.
- All's fair in love and war, and that includes breaking up a serious dog
fight with a broom, or whatever means you can find. An emergency is an
emergency.
- Be good to yourself. Take breaks. Take a bubble bath. Take a vacation.
- Don't do anything against your better judgement, no matter who said to do
it. Trust your observation and intuition above all.
Melinda Johnson
Copywrite 1997
:laughing: We have had three Goldens and they all have had eating issues. 
