Impact Wrench Advice

[jrepp]

I need an impact wrench to remove automobile lug nuts, compact tractor lug nuts, and mower blades (ridding mower 1-1/8" nut). How big 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, 1"? How much torque? How many RPM? What is BPM? What is IPM? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Thanks.

 

[_RaT_]

I would get a 1/2" drive. I have a Ingersol. There are other good brands, Chicago Pneumatic, MAC, SnapOn come to mind. The cheap ones will reveal their deficiencies quickly. Get all the power you can get. They like to use air so you need a decent compressor to run it for any length of time.

 

[shvl73]

I bought a 1/2" drive one at Home Cheapo for $99 w/ 500 ft. lbs. of max torque. It seems to work well.
I use my $29 Campell Haulsfield unit for lug nuts. It's easier not to over-torque them with that unit.

 

[dmftoy1]

I'd vote for 1/2 inch also. I've got a cheapo Campbell Hausfield and while it works ok, it definately doesn't have the power of one of the high end units. I'm saving for one of those for when my CH completely craps out. The high-end 3/8 drive impacts have better torque than the CH 1/2 inch units.

Regards,
Dave

 

[TWINKLE_TOES]

Impact Wrench

Bird. A.K.A. Tool Man (air) gave high marks to the IR231 and IR2131

 

[Bird]

To the best of my knowledge:

RPM = Revolutions Per Minute (how fast it spins under no load)
BPM = Blows Per Minute (talking about things like air chisels, jack hammers, etc.)
IPM = Impacts Per Minute (impact wrenches)

And I wouldn't even worry about those numbers at all myself. Look at the ft./lbs. of torque the impact wrench produces and look at the CFM (cubic feet per minute) of air required (do you have enough compressor). All the impact wrenches I know of are rated at, and for, 90 psi (pounds per square inch) of air pressure and no more than 100 psi (you can certainly get more power with higher pressure, but you may break your impact wrench). Personally, I'd go with a half inch impact wrench with a minimum of 425 ft./lbs., although you can get them upwards of 600 ft./lbs. The tool trucks sell good quality, but at too high a price for anyone but a professional mechanic who is going to pay them out over time, in my opinion. Snap-On is good, but too expensive both to buy and to repair if it breaks. MAC, Matco, and Cornwell are also good and are nearly all made for them by either Ingersoll-Rand or Chicago Pneumatic, so you can buy the IR or CP locally cheaper.

 

[KubotaSteve]

My dad had bought a 1/2" cheapo from Harbor Freight and it was ok for most everyday things, but when you had something that was really tight it showed it's true colors. He then got one from Sears which was higher quality and not that expensive. We haven't came accross anything yet it wouldn't take off. We even put a 3/4" adapter on it and used larger sockets for his MF135.
One word of caution is to make sure to use the low setting when putting lugs on a car or truck. By using the high torque settings, you can warp your rotars and cause other problems. We only use the impact gun to bring them up to the wheel and then use a 4 way lug wrench or torque wrench for final tightening. Definitely need a decent compressor.

 

[DiskDoctr]

jrepp,

If you have a Northern Tools catalog, flip to the airtools section and you can very quickly size up what is available.

I agree with Bird on several points.

1. CFM is king. If your compressor is lower rated than the tool, you will constantly be underpowered. Think "pow-pow-pow, wait-wait-wait, pow-pow-pow" Never be happy and throwing away $$ on torque you won't get. Also consider the size of hose and connectors you use if getting a larger tool. Larger tools usually require larger hoses and connectors.

2. Most impact wrenches have a higher reverse torque than forward. This gives more oomph for removing stubborn bolts.

3. 1/2" or max 3/4" seems reasonable for what you have. Forget 1"- lots of $$ and high CFM in the larger units. Very specialized.

4. Anvil- This looks like a built-in extension. Helpful sometimes, but a good extension will work well. A cheap extension probably won't hold up long, just to note.

5. Oil, OIL, OIL. Did I mention Oil? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif If you don't oil it, you WILL ruin it. More on this if you want...

6. Proper PSI. Don't make a habit of using too much pressure. Use a good regulator, and as mentioned earlier, most are rated at 90psi. Going over will eventually ruin the seals. Bad seals= poor power.

7. You usually get what you pay for... Brandnames like Ingersoll-Rand (IR part #'s), Snapon, etc carry a sometimes inflated premium, but have great support and repairability and rebuildability.

Hope this helps.

-JC

 

[Joe1]

No one here has recommended an electric model. They usually sell for less, even in name brands and it seems would eliminate the Air Compressor issues.

Does anyone have any experience/recommendations on these?

Joe

 

[shvl73]

I haven't seen ones that have the torque to get the jobs done that I would do with one. Maybe they're out there though. The pneumatics need a good balance of adequate CFM at 90 psi & tank size. You don't need a very expensive compressor to run one.

 

[Bird]

Joe, like many products, the electric impact wrenches have improved to some degree the past few years. I've owned two and one of my brothers currently carries one in his RV. Certainly nothing wrong with them and they generally work well and hold up well. The most important differences between them and the pneumatic impacts are:

1) The electric is very heavy, compared to a comparable air impact,
2) The electric costs more,
3) While recent models have increased the power, they still lag quite a bit behind the air impacts, and
4) The electric eliminates the need for an air compressor, but of course requires an electric power source.

I used to carry an electric half inch impact when we were full time RVers and had a generator in the RV, so it came in quite handy at times, so long as the need for power did not exceed 210-250 ft./lbs. On one trip to Alaska, my brother's 5th wheel broke one spring, so we stopped in South Dakota and within an hour, replaced all 4 springs and spring shackles on a 35' tandem axle trailer (I would hate to have to do that job without an impact wrench). On another trip, we encountered an older couple who had blown a tire on a heavily loaded horse trailer, and their health prevented them from changing it. I could have done that job with manual tools, but it was quicker and easier with the electric impact.

 

[WilliamBos]

Hi,

Aslo bought a Home Depot Husky model, and have not had a problem with it yet!! works fine!! ( 350lb of torque ) If you are looking, eother a Husky, or a MAC. The Mac guns are made by Ingersol-Rand, and one of the best on the market!!

Will

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The Mac guns are made by Ingersol-Rand, and one of the best on the market!!
)</font>

As are the Matco and Cornwell; all parts interchangeable, even if they are a different color in some cases, such as the IR2131 and the same tool with the other companies' names on it.

 

[Joe1]

Bird:

A qucik check at Northern Tool shows a 1/2" electric with 300 ft lbs for $209, Milwaukee has a 300 ft lb that weighs 7 lbs and runs $183.25. Still not up to the pneumatic ones, but will a home compressor of 4 hp and 12 gallon tank handle a pneumatic one with greater torque?

Joe

 

[Bird]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( will a home compressor of 4 hp and 12 gallon tank handle a pneumatic one with greater torque? )</font>

Joe, I can't say for sure because knowing the tank size and hp (I'm guessing that's an electric motor instead of gas) still doesn't tell me how many cubic feet per minute of air without knowing about the compressor itself (piston size, stroke length, and RPM make a difference). And then different impact wrenches are made for different amounts of air consumption. So you just have to look at the specs on the impact as to how much air it's designed for and the specs on the compressor as to how many CFM at 90 psi and compare. There are cheap half inch air impacts that only produce 240-250 ft./lbs. regardless of the compressor size and there are impacts of the same size that produce up to 600 ft./lbs. Now that 4 hp and 12 gallon tank will operate the 600 ft./lbs. impact, but may not develop its full power. It sometimes helps to also look at the specs on an impact and see if it lists "operating" power (usually a 5 second burst of air) as well as "ultimate" power which is to hold the trigger until the bolt just won't turn anymore. Some do and some don't list those things, so you may not know just how the manufacturer rated the tool.

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I used to carry an electric half inch impact when we were full time RVers and had a generator in the RV, so it came in quite handy at times, so long as the need for power did not exceed 210-250 ft./lbs. )</font>
I bought a 12V that gator clips to a battery to use on the tractor when away from the house and in the RV in case the generator fails. However, it's only for emergencies as it's not really ideal. It has to be "wound up" so to speak and then delivers a banging jolt and winds up again. Not a fast way to get a nut off, but it works. I bought it at Harbor Freight on sale some time ago for about $40 I think. I don't remember what the ft lbs rating is, but I'm sure it's not high. John

 

[markct]

we have a cheapo 1/2 air impact that we have had for years, we recently got a IR from a pawn shop, its alot more powerful, i also have a dewalt electric impact i got from a pawn shop, it had never been used still in the box, that one realy has some power, heavy tho, but it has amazed me with the power it will give to break free nuts that are rusted, but it sure is alot noisier and heavier than an air impact, but its nice cause its so portable too, it seems to have a less blows per min since it seems you need to let it hammer a bit more than an air one, but i have been very pleased with it

 

[JimR]

I have a CP 1/2 impact wrench that I bought in 1971 and used for 10 years as a mechanic. It has been rebuilt once and still does the job it was bought to do.

 

[KiotiJohn]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( but it has amazed me with the power it will give to break free nuts that are rusted, )</font>
I wouldn't be surprised by that considering all big ships now use electricity powered by diesels to run them.
I thought the 12V would be a lot better than it is. That weird pulling the trigger and hearing it spin and finally banging is strange, but it'll break a bolt out. You just have to wait too much for it to bang! John

 

[Junkman]

I also have a IR 1/2" impact that I purchased back in 1969 and when I tried to use it this weekend, it just didn't have the oomph that it needed to break a bolt loose. I was thinking that the bolt had just rusted to the point that it was going to require other skills to remove it. It never even dawned on me that it was just tired until reading your post. I have never had my worked on. Guess that it is time to either fix the old one or buy a new one. Thanks for giving me the wake up call. I just never thought that a old faithful tool like that would give up the ghost so early in life. After all, it is only 35 years old.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Now that I think about it, I think that there is another in the lower section of the tool box. Wonder if they go bad from non use???? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif Bird..... do you still fix impact wrenches??? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif