I keep breaking 1/2 ratchets on my lug nuts.

[LouNY]

The problem with using anti seize, or any lubricating product, on wheel studs is that it changes the torque values needed.

They'll now need more torque to achieve the same clamping force...but how much more?

Less torque per everything I've ever read. I run my 140 ft. lb spec'ed lug nuts at 110 ft. lbs. and haven't had any issues.
By 10 to 20% less.

 

[LouNY]

I use either a thread chaser or wire wheel on corroded bolts.

If I'm worried about corrosion, I'll use paint.

Myself and most everyone else that I know of use a never seize on the rims and studs. On the salty brined roads of the North East wheels that do not have corrosion prevention will be "froze" so had on the hubs as to be almost impossible to remove. I've seen several vehicles that had to be driven in figure 8's with the lug nuts almost completely off to loosen the wheels, otherwise sledge hammers or porta powers being used to free rims that have seized to hubs and rotors.

 

[oldtimer 66]

The problem with using anti seize, or any lubricating product, on wheel studs is that it changes the torque values needed.

They'll now need more torque to achieve the same clamping force...but how much more?

Less torque

 

[oldtimer 66]

Salt example. I have lived on a dirt road for 48 years and then in the last 3 years the township paved the road. I never thought they would but they are now paving all of the dirt roads in my township. Some have been paved with asphalt and some with tar and chip. I live in northern PA near lake Erie.

Now in 1978 I purchased a new Chevy .5 ton 4 wheel drive short bed truck. In five years there were holes in the rear axle backing plates. I needed to replace the backing plates, wheel cylinders, leaf spring u bolts/ nuts and retaining plates. I could rub the u bolt nuts by hand and the nut would start to disappear. It was caused by the brine on the roads during the summer and salt used on the paved roads during winter. All of my trucks over the years were rust buckets when I traded then in. Crispy as we say around here.

 

[mllud]

I have used anti-seize for years without issue. I have a F350 that has about two inches of exposed threads. Here they use salt and brine on the roads.
Anti seize is not a lubricant, it does change torque values. As others say you use less toque with anti seize
Someone will ask how much, you use your judgement. I have never had lug nuts come lose.
I prefer keeping threads and nuts in good condition than dry and gaulded.
I use a torque wrench when rebuilding an engine but not on lug nuts. I read what torque is called for and tighten them.
There are a lot of mechanics that can hit very close without a torque wrench. On a 160 foot pound value, 5-foot pounds off wont make much difference.
I lean a little on the heavy side on lug nuts.

Don't consider or use anti seize as a lubricant I often see it referred to as a lubricant. The name says it all.

 

[jyoutz]

Salt example. I have lived on a dirt road for 48 years and then in the last 3 years the township paved the road. I never thought they would but they are now paving all of the dirt roads in my township. Some have been paved with asphalt and some with tar and chip. I live in northern PA near lake Erie.

Now in 1978 I purchased a new Chevy .5 ton 4 wheel drive short bed truck. In five years there were holes in the rear axle backing plates. I needed to replace the backing plates, wheel cylinders, leaf spring u bolts/ nuts and retaining plates. I could rub the u bolt nuts by hand and the nut would start to disappear. It was caused by the brine on the roads during the summer and salt used on the paved roads during winter. All of my trucks over the years were rust buckets when I traded then in. Crispy as we say around here.

Why summer brine?

 

[LouNY]

Why summer brine?

Dust control, calcium chloride will suck moisture out of the air and keep the road surface damp and compacted.

 

[jyoutz]

Dust control, calcium chloride will suck moisture out of the air and keep the road surface damp and compacted.

Oh on dirt roads. I get it.

 

[WinterDeere]

There are a lot of mechanics that can hit very close without a torque wrench.

I work in an industry where we have to torque every single coaxial connector nut, every single time. A busy technician will make hundreds of connections/disconnect cycles per day, so these guys get to practice with a torque wrench a few hundred thousand times per year… year after year.

Long story short, each of us R&D guys had a product engineer and technician assigned to each of our products, and the product engineer assigned to me never used a torque wrench, as he should.

I spent the first few days of our relationship quietly following him around with my torque wrench, loosening and re-torquing every damn one of his connections, but eventually learned he was always right on the money by feel alone, every single time. This guy had made so many millions of these connections, that I’d bet you could calibrate your torque wrench to him, rather than the other way around!

 

[dstig1]

But I can tell you from personal experience, that I have bought more than one torque wrench from China, pulled the thing brand-new out of the box and tested it... and they've been a mile off. So then I pull the cal cert out of the box, stamped, dated, and supposedly "confirmed" to be within xx.xxx% accuracy. But they're not.

Every certificate of conformity, cal cert, and other such document is only as good as the tools used to confirm the spec, and the training or knowledge of the person doing the confirmation. And it seems many of these Asian manufacturers do either a terrible job of maintaining their tools, or in training their people on how to properly use them. They certainly don't show their full NIST traceability on most. They may be confirming the accuracy of that tool using a gauge that's 20% off its mark, or the operator may have rigged the equipment up in a way that defeats its intended accuracy.

Oh you sweet summer child, you.

What makes you think they actually calibrated them? This is China. Odds are that the guy or gal packing them out is told to put this certificate in each one and they are never tested.

My favorite example was this thing I saw in a plumbing engineering magazine years ago. Some Michigan state project that requested quotes and they got some super low one from a Chinese supplier for 4" iron pipe. Well nobody trusted it. So they said please send us your QC documents for the lots in question. They get back a table that was clearly filled in by one guy using one pen in one sitting and all of the diameters of the 4" pipe all said the same thing for actual measurement 4.001" Literally all of them on the page. The whole thing was clearly faked and just written up to fulfill the request. Needless to say, they told that supplier to pound sand. Not even smart enough to vary the number slightly. Wow

With a country with the ethics of China, you never trust that what you see is true. If you don't have people on site to watch and check, you have zero reason to believe they don't just ignore all that after you leave.

 

[JKR]

What lug nut do you need to take off. That you need a 6 foot cheater bar. Most lugnuts are
between 80 to 110 foot pounds. A half inch breaker bar would be better that a ratchet.
3/4" breaker bar and impact socket would be safer.
You can buy a 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch battery impact gun that would work.
Safety first.

 

[Soloz2]

Get yourself a breaker bar and only use your 6’ cheater bar with that if you need. I’ve never broken a HF or Craftsman breaker bar and I have both. Once you break the lug loose then switch to your ratchet.
My favorite ratchet for lug nuts is my Gearwrench 120xp 1/2” flex head long handle. I primarily use gearwrench ratchets in the 120xp or roto head variety, but I do have a trusty 3/8” flex head kobalt I love. The big thing is to use a breaker bar for anything you really need to put pressure on.

 

[tomterr17]

harbor freight and craftsman have broken on me getting lug nuts loose. I am rough with them using a 6 ft pipe.

I do have a impact driver maybe that will work better.

I assume your torqueing them correctly, so I guess they are freezing up because of the environment (wet and or damp). You must use never-seize on the threads of the studs and on surface of the nut to wheel contact. Paul C.

 

[kenlip]

The problem with using anti seize, or any lubricating product, on wheel studs is that it changes the torque values needed.

They'll now need more torque to achieve the same clamping force...but how much more?

They need less torque, not more.

Lubed lug nuts require approximately 30% less torque than dry nuts.

 

[Little Red Tractor]

All the suggestions regarding impact drivers, breaker bars or even 3/4 drive are valid. I suspect that whoever put the lugs on over-tightened them to begin with. Once you get them off, use some never-seize and torque to--not over--spec. You should never have that problem again.

 

[masscity]

I found this a while back. I've also read that it should be 20% less.

 

[Utopia Texas]

There are special high strength sockets made just for impact drivers that can also be used in your situation with a breaker bar. Regular sockets can shatter in heavy use and send dangerous pieces into the air. These impact sockets are usually made a “black” color.

 

[Utopia Texas]

Only use “impact sockets” made just for what you are doing. Regular sockets can shatter and send dangerous pieces into the air.

Amazon.com : impact sockets 1/2 drive

 

[Riding a Relic]

harbor freight and craftsman have broken on me getting lug nuts loose. I am rough with them using a 6 ft pipe.

I do have a impact driver maybe that will work better.

Find out the torque specs. Use the value per service manual. Clean the rims and axle flange before you install the wheel. If you have been over doing the torque, replace the studs or bolts and or nuts. Use anti-seize compound when installing. Invest in a decent torque wrench. Life will be better for you!

 

[Yanmar J]

harbor freight and craftsman have broken on me getting lug nuts loose. I am rough with them using a 6 ft pipe.

I do have a impact driver maybe that will work better.

Had the same problem with a 1969 Chrysler. Replace all factory studs on the wheels with new ones from Auto zone or an auto parts store. Not original. MIGHT help. Sometimes the different metals in the nuts reacts with the metal in the studs and they kind of weld. Also try using anti seize.