I keep breaking 1/2 ratchets on my lug nuts.

[WranglerX]

Probably correct in as much as I own a torque master and every time I check them, they are always close to spec. Problem that most people don't quite understand is, if you put an extension on a torque wrench or you don't apply it at 90 degrees to the fastener you are torquing, the value of the torque applied changes. Then there is the wet thread versus dry thread issue as well.

Depends I guess but there is also (other than mechanical torque multiplier) as torque wrench extension.... Are we talking a bar or socket extension...

 

[sd455dan]

You are imagining that. Cut it to 135 psi but switch to high flow couplers and large inside diameter air hoses. Even my large IR 1" drive impact runs fine on 135 psi. Keep them well oiled as well. I use IR air tool oil in the pint squeeze bottle and it sits where my employees can get it easily as well.

In reality, all 175 psi does is build carbon on the reed valves quickly and then they need cleaned or replaced and the receivers run hot and that causes even more condensation. I run a 100 gallon receiver on the Quincy and an additional 250 gallon vertical receiver in the corner of the shop. The screw has a 75 gallon horizontal receiver under the mechanical stuff, built in.

I may actually do that 5030, It really does sound like a good idea. I do need to put up some legitimate decent sized air line piping.

 

[WinterDeere]

Actually if you do a real research torque wrench "calibration" is sort of myth as most are within reasonable limits to be accurate enough for just about everything but space agency devices.... Was a few good youtube videos a while back showing several different wrenches in differing conditions and error factor was almost negable....

I'd be interested in seeing that, as I worked in an industry where our wrenches had to be re-calibrated every year, and many were found to require re-adjustment. I have also personally taken brand new torque wrenches purchased without NIST certs out of the box, tested them myself, and found them off by as much as 20%.

As someone posted previously, the beam type is always accurate, if not damaged, and a good method for checking your clickers. But clickers tend to be all over the place, depending on how they're handled and who calibrated them at the factory.

 

[WranglerX]

I may actually do that 5030, It really does sound like a good idea. I do need to put up some legitimate decent sized air line piping.

Not just any old plastic pipe (pvc), use only air line certified plastic or steel.....

 

[sd455dan]

Not just any old plastic pipe, use only air line certified plastic or steel.....

Yeah, I don't need any PVC shrapnel bombs in my garage.

 

[Hay Dude]

Or

 

[sandman2234]

If that is so why do torque multipliers state in instruction how to apply torque (with a torque wrench) above and beyond the rated value of a torquench to tighten nuts and bolts....?

Like 5030 said, very few people read the instructions!! I haven't!!
I do understand the mechanics of a Torque Multiplier, and it would increase the torque going to the nut or bolt. That number can be calculated, but I wouldn't trust it.
David from jax

 

[5030]

I may actually do that 5030, It really does sound like a good idea. I do need to put up some legitimate decent sized air line piping.

Years ago when I first built the shop, I ran all my air lines prior to setting any machinery, I had my steel supplier deliver a bundle of 2" mill lengths 21 foot) black iron pipe and I bought all the fittings from Grainger. I own a Rigid pipe threading machine so I cut the pipe to the required lengths and threaded it for the required fittings. They also delivered a couple mill lengths of 1" black for the drops and they terminate in ball valves with a condensate drain on each drop as well. I had to do that as I have employees and liability could be an issue with anything else though I do believe you could use schedule 60 plastic pipe with solvent welded joints. It wasn't a cheap date even 20 years ago, but it will far outlast me. The compressors and receivers are flex lined (for vibration purposes to the hard lines) and I sloped all the hard lines away from the compressors and receivers toward the drops so I could drain out any condensate that might collect in the piping. Like I said, over 20 years ago and zero issues. If it was a personal shop and not a commercial shop, I probably would have plumbed it in schedule 60 plastic, but again, because I have employees, liability was a concern so I did it like I did it. I see you can get flexible air line now that utilizes compression fittings. None of that was available 20 plus years ago. I've seen pictures of exploding air lines under pressure as well as exploding compressor tanks that weren't regularly drained and they weren't pretty. My Quincy as well as the Sullaire both have timed electric condensate drains on them. Bought the drains from Suburban Manufacturing but I see Compressors Direct have them as well. I also see Amazon has them listed and I presume they are Chinese. I wanted a domestically made condensate drain so I went with Suburban and after 20+ years they work flawlessly. Receivers stay dry all the time and the condensate drain hoses exit through the shop wall out to the grass beside the shop. keeps the grass watered...lol Like I said previously, 135 psi static pressure all the time. 175 psi is way overkill so long as you have adequate CFM.

 

[sandman2234]

I worked for a company for a brief time back in the mid 70's and ran a lot of pipe in a new shop that a power company was building. I dropped by there last year, and those pipes were still there for the most part. Some modifications as could be expected, but still handling the huge volume of air from the dual screw compressors.
David from jax

 

[5030]

View attachment 3217984

Or

View attachment 3217985

Bet my 1" drive IR could split those sockets real quick. Nice sets for manual use however.