I finally got a Yanmar (YM2001)

[duanew1]

I finally got a Yanmar after looking for a couple years at them on craigslist. I would have preferred a 4wd model but a good deal on them is very rare around here it seems. There are a few of the smaller 4wds around but they are either higher priced or really beat up. I went to look at a YM155D but it was too beat up and missing parts so I had to pass on it. On the way home I saw a YM2001 with finish mower and box blade for sale. It smiled at me so I brought it home.

I checked it out while it was there. There are a few issues with it. The lights and turn signals do not work and the battery needs replacing. The switches are broken and need replacement. The throttle lever does not hold its position. The transmission fluid is milky. The left brake feels soft. Now the good things. There is no blowby that I can detect. There is no smoke in the exhaust except for during startup. It starts easy even with the bad battery hat only puts out 10.5 to 11 volts. I just pull the decompression lever, turn the key and wait for the motor to slowly turn over. Push the decompression lever and it starts right up. The paint is faded but the body panels are good. The hydraulics are strong. PTO seems to work well. The previous owner put a boat seat on it. I wish it was a tractor seat. It is ok for now. I have the original seat rails also.

I thought that the YM2001 was just an updated version of the YM2000 with a 3 cylinder engine but the more I look into it the more differences I find. The YM2001 seems to be a pretty rare model. It is probably a 1981 model or so. I have not seen many people who have them. There are many engine rebuild parts available on HOYE so it must share parts with another model. I have been looking at the specs and the YM2001 can weigh as much as 400 pounds more than the YM2000. There is also a 4 speed PTO that I do not know the speed of the top three gears. I have a plan for that though.

I have a tachometer for a model airplane engine that uses light pulses to measure the rpm. You set it for a 2 or 3 blade prop. I plan on taping a light rod (possibly a straw) to the end of the PTO shaft and measure the rpm with the 2 blade prop setting. I will do that in 1st gear and find 540 rpm to find the rated engine speed. I will then change to the different gears and measure to find the other ratios. I will report when I gather all of the parts and complete the experiment.

I love LED's. I plan on changing out the front lights with flush mount LED's when I can gather the money and parts. I posted my plan in another thread, but I plan on using cutting board material. Also, as you will see in my pics, my front plastic light surround is pretty much gone. I also plan on adding a rear led work light.

I like it so far and have been spending a lot of time tinkering with it. I have changed the transmission/hydraulic fluid, greased the joints, and fixed the throttle arm issue. I have looked into the light switch and may replace it with a Dorman 85989 switch. I have not found a replacement for the blinker switch yet. Some of these parts HOYE does not have or they are backordered or I did not find them or they are too expensive for what they are. You get the picture. When I bought it the front wheels were flipped. I have already flipped them back the way they are supposed to go.

The previous owner mostly used it for mowing, so the 3 point adjusters did not get moved for years. They were rusted a bit and were locked up. I got them all loosened up with some penetrating oil but the side adjuster rod gave me some trouble. I got it moving with the blowtorch for a few rotations but pushed too far and it locked up again. I ended up breaking it because I put too much torque on it. There turned out to be a flaw in the weld because the rust line went 1/3 the way across where it broke. Oh well. The side link is on sale now at HOYE and I ordered one. I guess I will have to wait to use the tractor again.

 

[kenmac]

Don't know what the prices are,but if you wanted a 4WD ,Fredricks just down the road in hartselle should have had plenty of them

 

[duanew1]

Don't know what the prices are,but if you wanted a 4WD ,Fredricks just down the road in hartselle should have had plenty of them

Yea I looked there first. This was even before I found out how they are probably the main importer right now. Their prices were a little high and I really did not need a fully refurbished tractor. I decided to go used instead. They did have some nice 4WDs with loaders.

 

[clemsonfor]

brakes are easy on these tractors assuming your cam is not locked in the cover like mine see my post on that "stuck brake cam on YM2000".

Switches are easy like you say. Change the fluid and get another boot for the shifter and o ring that holds it. Get another friction washer for the throttle and the few other things you said an your good to go.

 

[clemsonfor]

any you have no smoke under quick acceleration? or heavy load (which i doubt you have put it under yet?) thats good i thought any deisel of this age and design overfuels till caught up and blows a bit of black smoke under the above situations.

 

[duanew1]

brakes are easy on these tractors assuming your cam is not locked in the cover like mine see my post on that "stuck brake cam on YM2000".

I have already taken off the left side brake housing. The brake actuator was free but sticking a bit. The grease was totally dry and I had to tap it out with a hammer. I re-greased it and put it back together. I also noticed a crack on both friction pads while I had it apart. It is better but it is still not the same as the right. I will put it as if it was hydraulic brakes. It feels like the right is well bled with a firm petal and the left still has some air in the line. I only did the left. The right still feels great, but I will have to do it soon.

Switches are easy like you say.

I am going to wait on this as it is not that important. I am planning on maybe changing the blinkers over to hazard lights. I don't think I need the blinkers anyway. I will just use hand signals if I need to. The top speed is really slow, so I don't think I would feel real comfortable on the road. Boy this thing can go slow with the creep gear.

Change the fluid and get another boot for the shifter and o ring that holds it.

I have already changed out the fluid. It was a job because I do not have anything large enough the catch the whole amount of fluid. Pouring in the new fluid was a pain also. I also have two of the boots on order. I never saw the o-ring anywhere. Do you have a picture? Where does it go?

Also getting the new boots on will not be easy. The knobs seem to be really stuck on there. I think I can slide it over the range selector knob as it is not that big. The main shifter knob is much larger so I do not think that will work.

Get another friction washer for the throttle and the few other things you said an your good to go.

I was able to fix this problem by tightening the nut a bit on the arm. The friction washer is still intact.

 

[duanew1]

any you have no smoke under quick acceleration? or heavy load (which i doubt you have put it under yet?) thats good i thought any deisel of this age and design overfuels till caught up and blows a bit of black smoke under the above situations.

I have not really noticed any smoke yet. I have only been able to do a little scraping of the ground with the heavy 5 foot box blade that came with the tractor. It is really easy to loose traction with the rippers down. I may decide to load my rear tires with antifreeze mix.

I am in search of a 5 foot bush hog. This should be able to make my YM2001 work hard. I just need to sell my finish mower first.

 

[duanew1]

Oops. I forgot I posted about this above.

I broke my side adjusting link a few days ago. The previous owner used the YM2001 mainly for mowing with a finish mower so he never adjusted the 3 point hitch adjusters. They were all locked up from rust. I got them all loose except one with some PB Blaster and time working them back an forth. The side link would not budge. I finally got it to move with the propane torch for a few rotations. It them started locking up again and I could not turn it in either direction for more than 1/8 turn. I guess I put too much torque on it after that because It broke.

It looks like it had been damaged previously or had a manufacturing defect from the rust line going deep into the weld. Oh well. HOYE had them on sale and it should be here today.

 

[duanew1]

Change the fluid and get another boot for the shifter and o ring that holds it.

I see the o-ring now on the YM2000 parts diagram. Does it go on the outside to hold the boot in place? I might be able to source one locally. It looks like a 35x4 o-ring on HOYE. HOYE is a great resource and a great service to the Yanmar community.

 

[clemsonfor]

yes it goes on the bottom edge of the boot where it meets the transmission i guess. thinking in my head now. it is visible from the outside and just makes a seal friction fit. SO size as long as snug is not as important as if it were seaining internally in something. I am not sure if there is a kind of ridge it sits in or just snugs up to the lower edge of the boot. I haveent looked that close?

I needed a new friction washer and later at some point one of my nuts vibrated off so i had to re double nut the thing.