I finally got a Yanmar (YM2001)

[jb92563]

Oh, thanks Winston, that's just what I need. I'll order those things today.

And you even found the cheapest price with shipping included....your awesome!


I am curious how any kind of inner tub could cost $762 though :laughing:

 

[California]

Here's the tool I cobbled together from parts in my junk bin. HF tire head to garden hose threads, via adapters. This is for pure water fill. If you need to put in antifreeze you need a better method.

Notes:
Tires jacked off the ground. Its easier to add water with the valve at the bottom, then disconnect and rotate the valve to the top to bleed of excess pressure. You will need to do this several times during the process.
I removed the Schrader valves from the tires before filling.
I removed the nub in this head that presses on the Schrader valve since the nub is part of a one-way valve.
Stop and relieve air pressure in the tire occasionally. Your water system provides about 60 psi and that's too much for a tire. To release air only, rotate the tire until the valve is at the top.
Maximum practical fill is to the point where bleeding off pressure with the valve at the top, pushes out air air but not water.
Use a 99 cent pressure tester in the future, not your best one, since moisture or water is sure to come out when you check tire pressure.
After filling the tire with water, then add air up to recommended pressure with your ordinary compressor etc.

 

[clemsonfor]

I put washer fluid in.

a way to put antifreeze in with the tool is to fill the long hose with antifreeze. pour your calculated amount in and lift the hosee to let it flow down. If you want to put one gallon in each get a gallon or half in the hose, hook the hose up and turn it on to push it in. Repeat if you did not get it all in the first time. you will obviously will have to drain the water out of the hose to get the AF into it though .

Back to my windsheild fluid fill. I tried a funnel and hose attachement with the adapter, that would of taken 6 days at that rate of flow. I used an onlu 15 gallon sprayer with the 3/8 hose on it hooked to a few adapter to adapt up to 3/4 garden hose or 5/8 not sure which it was? Then i hooked that stub of garden hose to the adapter and turned the pump on and just kept pouring the fluid into the tank of the sprayer. I think it was something like 7 -8 gallons of WWF and a gallon or two of water i put into the tire. I stopped ever so often to burp the valve to get the displaced air out of the tire.

And yes you remove the valve core with the valve sitting at the 12 oclock or 11 or 1 position while you fill. Then just screw it back in and put your air in...to the recomended pressure.

 

[jb92563]

So many great time saving suggestions. I like the antifreeze in the hose trick...clever.

Since I'm in southern California and its unlikely it would ever get cold enough to freeze the water in the tires, are there any other reasons besides freeze protection to add WWF to the water?

 

[winston1]

If putting in a tube no reason, if tubeless you would face corrosion.

 

[clemsonfor]

yea tubes are a must to fill.

 

[California]

If you don't have a risk of freezing I think plain water is best. Water is harmless if it leaks in your garden or when it eventually needs to be disposed of.

We've had a few nights down into the low 20's here (coastal climate N of San Francisco) since I put water in the YM240 but with it parked under cover and with daytime warming above freezing, I don't think the water even got slushy.

 

[clemsonfor]

I even think for the most part here were i live in upstate SC i would be fine...but the last few years we have had winter more like my parents generation had seen.

A few years ago we had a string of like 3 days that we never got above freezing. and last year we saw a night in the low teens and not above or barely above freezing the next day and 2 years ago we had a night down to 8F and barely abouve freezing the day before and not the day after !!! NOt worth risking anything to me so i went with WWF

 

[duanew1]

I will bring my thread back form the dead as I have finally had time to do some work on it. I know you all of you like pictures so I will show some that I took previously.

This is when I was testing the bush hog to see how easy it is to lift the front wheels. I (more than 200 lbs) could stand all the way on the back edge of the bush hog and the front wheels did not lift off the ground. I could bounce a bit and the front wheels would lift. And no the tractor was not running at the time. One good thing about my tractor is that I have not noticed any leaking down of the 3 point.

 

[duanew1]

I managed to find a guy on craigslist that was selling many different turf tires on rims for cheap. I called him up to go an look at them. The listing had the rim bolt holes measures incorrectly. He seemed to have measured them from two adjacent holes instead of across the whole pattern.

I went to my Yanmar to measure the bolt pattern to have something to measure the other rims by. By the way the bolt pattern on the YM2001 by my measurements is Front- 4 on 5.125 and Rear 6 on 5.5.

He had many tires for sale. He said that he is a Yanmar dealer and was able to buy the tire/wheels on discount because Yanmar was changing the color of the wheels. I looked on Craigslist just now to see if I could find the ad in case you were wondering, but could not find it.

I picked up a set of 13.6-16 and 23X8.50-12 with rims. The fronts were a direct bolt on but I didn't like the tires. The rears needed to be redrilled for the correct bolt pattern. By the way I got the rears for $80 a piece and the fronts for $20 a piece.

I decided to spoon off the front tires and sell them and buy some turf tires to replace them. Removing the industrial tires was not too much of a challenge because I have done many tires by hand before and have my technique down. The hard part was getting the soft turf tires to seat on the rim and hold air. I ended up having to get one of those air tank bead seater things on ebay to get them to hold air. I am glad that I have it now and will definitely use it in the future for other tires.

 

[clemsonfor]

I managed to find a guy on craigslist that was selling many different turf tires on rims for cheap. I called him up to go an look at them. The listing had the rim bolt holes measures incorrectly. He seemed to have measured them from two adjacent holes instead of across the whole pattern.

I went to my Yanmar to measure the bolt pattern to have something to measure the other rims by. By the way the bolt pattern on the YM2001 by my measurements is Front- 4 on 5.125 and Rear 6 on 5.5.

He had many tires for sale. He said that he is a Yanmar dealer and was able to buy the tire/wheels on discount because Yanmar was changing the color of the wheels. I looked on Craigslist just now to see if I could find the ad in case you were wondering, but could not find it.

I picked up a set of 13.6-16 and 23X8.50-12 with rims. The fronts were a direct bolt on but I didn't like the tires. The rears needed to be redrilled for the correct bolt pattern. By the way I got the rears for $80 a piece and the fronts for $20 a piece.

I decided to spoon off the front tires and sell them and buy some turf tires to replace them. Removing the industrial tires was not too much of a challenge because I have done many tires by hand before and have my technique down. The hard part was getting the soft turf tires to seat on the rim and hold air. I ended up having to get one of those air tank bead seater things on ebay to get them to hold air. I am glad that I have it now and will definitely use it in the future for other tires.

Has no one showed you the starting fluid or carb cleaner trick? More dangerous than those cheetah tanks or whatever the brand is that blows the air in at once but a heck of a lot cheaper!!!

 

[duanew1]

Has no one showed you the starting fluid or carb cleaner trick? More dangerous than those cheetah tanks or whatever the brand is that blows the air in at once but a heck of a lot cheaper!!!

I tried it. It didn't work for me. I sprayed a second or two inside the tire and used the the spray to light it off. The tire didn't even move and now there is a fire inside the tire. I even hung the tire from the inside of the bead to help get the tire used to being spread apart. I still could not get the tire to seal enough to push onto the bead. Turf tires are notoriously difficult to mount because they are so soft. I spoon on my own trailer tires so I figured that the bead sealer was a good investment.

The bead seater that I bought was only $46 shipped so not too bad.

 

[clemsonfor]

yea not bad, the cost of 4 tires mounted around here

 

[duanew1]

Here it is after I got the wheels mounted. I like the way it looks. It is definitely more difficult to turn the steering wheel now. With super skinny ribs up front it was like having power steering.

I am doing the steering box now. I had to take the bodywork off as well as the fuel tank to get to the steering box. It seems that the person that last worked on the steering box filled it with a loose grease. It was a real pain to clean it out. I ended up putting it in diesel for a couple of days to dissolve the grease. I even took apart the ball screw to get the grease out. I would not recommend it because it can be quite difficult to put back together. I am just waiting on a few parts before I put it back together.

 

[kenmac]

looks like you are in a pretty nice sub division there. What is the HOA gonna say about that loud tractor bothering those neighbors ? LOL

I do like those wide tires on the rear

 

[duanew1]

My lights have never worked, so I have a plan to repair the wiring and change a few things around. I feel that turn signals are not needed so I will be changing them to hazard lights. I have already removed my broken turn signal switch and 3D printed an adapter for a pull style switch.

I also plan on 3D printing a headlight shroud for holding a set of flush mount LED lights. The preview of it is below. I still have to split it into 3 pieces so that I can fit it on my 3D printer.

I am also installing an LED work light for the rear.

 

[duanew1]

looks like you are in a pretty nice sub division there. What is the HOA gonna say about that loud tractor bothering those neighbors ? LOL

I do like those wide tires on the rear

Yea the tractor is at the house in the garage right now. There are no tools or place to work where I normally keep the tractor. Plus it is a 25 minute drive away.

 

[kenmac]

I use to keep mine at my other property. Now that I have moved. I brought the yanmar home to the farm.
When I go to my other property, I just trailer it there. It's about 25 miles away

 

[TX mower]

Has no one showed you the starting fluid or carb cleaner trick? More dangerous than those cheetah tanks or whatever the brand is that blows the air in at once but a heck of a lot cheaper!!!

I seat stubborn beads using a ~2-1/2" wide heavy-duty (10k# rated?) ratchet load strap wrapped around the center of the tread ... crank it down, squash the center of the tread, the bead spreads to contact the (lubed) rim all around, remove the valve-stem core, use a standard 30-gallon compressor with clamp-on valve-chuck to seat it from a distance. Deflate and remove the strap.

Lotsa uses for that ratchet-strap between the rare tire-changes

Hey duane - nice looking tractor (and tires/wheels)! Congrats!

 

[kenmac]

I seat stubborn beads using a ~2-1/2" wide heavy-duty (10k# rated?) ratchet load strap wrapped around the center of the tread ... crank it down, squash the center of the tread, the bead spreads to contact the (lubed) rim all around, remove the valve-stem core, use a standard 30-gallon compressor with clamp-on valve-chuck to seat it from a distance. Deflate and remove the strap.

Lotsa uses for that ratchet-strap between the rare tire-changes

Hey duane - nice looking tractor (and tires/wheels)! Congrats!

I have used this method many times. Have also used starting fluid too !