Hyster forklift rebuild

[laurencen]

around my acerage wanted a forklift, had a small Toyota 3000 pound lift but it was a bummer in the yardso traded it for a Hyster diesel old machine

thinking its a D50 will get a few pictures and hopefully someone can help identify.

this thing runs not bad, 3 stage but a low mast the issue was no brakes so a project and so it begins

removing duel wheels was a chore, outside wheels are held on by nuts, the nuts are threaded onto spuds that then hold the inside wheels, both inside wheels are flat, valve stem is not accessable from outside. have 4 of these spuds with nut stuck on the wheels, not sure how to get them aoart at this time

after removing the wheels, then a carrier bolted to hub you remove the drum, then the spindle those cone washers were a pain removed the bearing nuts anf finally the hub, the inner brake parts were rusted solid, plus backing plate was rotted thro in places.

finally after a week I have the left side back together I can start the right side, this I will take some pictures as it progresses

looking back 2 weeks in should have kept the Toyota

 

[laurencen]

here is a few pictures of the forklift project, Im thinking its a D50 but dealer is little help unless I have serial which has long since rotted away by the seat, if anyone can identify model that would be great

 

[laurencen]

left side back together, here is the backing plate the area the cylinder was mounted was rotted away, figured we were in luck as it has a part number but nothing cross referenced to any available part so we plasma cut several plates and rebuilt the cylinder area, cable was so rusted it was like removing a solid bar

 

[laurencen]

now the right side, the backing plate has not rusted thro which is good but the cylinder is way off alignment with the shoe slot, looks like the backing plate is badly bent up, best guess like the other side at some time wire, strapping or anything that could wind its way between the backing plate and frame just packed so hard it shoved the plate over, as you see its pushing the shoe away from the plate and will cause the cylinder to apply braking at a angle.

still have 3 of the wedge washers to remove, thus far not a hint of moving, penetrating oil, hammer, pneumatic chisel has no effect on them

 

[laurencen]

quick update, picture did not show it but the 3 pads where a brake shoe sits against the backing plate 2 had worn thro on the bottom shoe, this caused the shoe to sit at a angle inside the drum, not sure how it got this bad, shoes are like new other than rust and everything is rusted badly.

the pads I built up with weld, on this side purchased a new cylinder, the emergency cable was torched off along with the brake line at the backing plate, they also torched the hole where you adjust the brakes though the adjuster was rusted solid.

after a few hours welding on the plate, grinding flat wire brushing and emery cloth all parts were free again, picked up a second brake cable and put the right side back together.

next the emergency brake, not good the hand knob on the lever was rusted solid, trying to loosen it sheared the knob off, the assembly was rusted solid so ground the welds the adjusting tube is welded to, this freed the adjusting slide, chucked the adjusting slide in lathe and drilled out the threaded rod the knob should be attached to,

after a ton of wire brush re tapped the adjusting slide, mounted back in the assembly, clamped the tube back in place and welded the sided back onto the tube, regarding the tube, it was double crimped on the adjusting screw so the knob was trapped, I had to grind off the crimp to remove the bushing, after making a new bushing I pressed it into the tube, only down side if you unscrew the knob you can screw it all the way out the assembly.

the adjusting knob I chucked, drilled out the sheared threaded shaft and threaded it for a length of 5/16 unc rod, drilled from the side to lock it in place with a set screw.

quite a fight to get cables into place threw away the old clips that held the cables, original cables are no longer available so got something close, made a split bushing out of aluminum, turned the outer cable sheath to fit the split bushing and mounted it in the assembly.

presto I now have functioning emergency brakes on both wheels.

tomorrow weather permitting will adjust the brakes at the wheels, mount the new master brake cylinder, have to make up 3 lines two to the wheels and the one to a tee from the master cylinder, bleed and should have real brakes once more, may even be driving by the weekend.

looking on the intake there is a line from a pump, looks like it sprays diesel into the throat and a spark plug to fire it, never seen such a contraption before

also wish I had some sort of electrical diagram and a hydraulic diagram, Hyster can do nothing to help without a serial number which long rusted away

 

[LouNY]

The fuel spray and igniter sounds like an intake air preheater for cold weather starting.
Those brakes are almost as bad as a Dynahoe 190-4 were you have to dissassemble the planetary drive to remove the hub and brake drum.

 

[flyerdan]

That looks very similar to my H50H, almost like someone welded fender flares on for duals. Most image searches show dual models with bigger steer tires, don't know what you have there.
I've got a folder with all kinds of .pdf manuals; electrics and hydraulics should be similar for everything that era, one would think.

 

[laurencen]

hi flyerdan, I believe its a 50 or 60, the mast is a short 3 stage must have been used for containers or similar, maybe mining in the past life.

the wide fenders are original, paint is peeling but the metal is galvanised, it has lifted 5500 pounds when I loaded a skidsteer on the trailer

if you can share any pdf manuals that would be great and appreciated, the local dealer has been little help

after its mechanically mobile it needs the dash wiring sorted out, lots of tinkering going on

 

[flyerdan]

Link sent, the nice thing about these old beasts is the wiring is pretty simple.

 

[laurencen]

thanks for the link, those parts diagrams would have helped lots, mine is a diesel motor, the accelerator pedal has a rocker for forward/reverse, for the little we used it seems to work but no brakes hard to do much

today I mounted new brake mastercylinder and throttle linkage, started putting brake lines on but tight with all the hydraulics and bends, hopefully tomorrow will be a runner.

with the rocker throttle pedal is that the power shift? is it single speed or 2 speed do you know?

 

[laurencen]

with the electrical diagram I can start the tracing of the mass of wires connected to nothing Im trying to track a service manual, if I find one will forward a link

 

[flyerdan]

What you have is called a Monotrol, it's just a switch that activated the drive to forward or reverse. It's only one speed but variable depending on torque and load, rpm, etc. There should be a section in one of the books about it.
Mine is the twin stick manual with a G193 Continental. Finding Hyster literature in the wild is difficult indeed.

 

[laurencen]

today bled brakes, put wheels on had to replace one tube so the valve stem faced out and set the machine back on ground, figured I would check fuel, half tank of diesel smells bad, varnishy and solvent smell, does diesel go bad? maybe last owner poured virasol in the tank by mistake, anyway slowly pumping it out, hopefully fire it up tomorrow

 

[laurencen]

and it continues, new fuel and fired it up and a spray of oil underneath, removed covers and a pressure line from the go pedal is spraying oil, replaced the lin and checked hydraulic oil, topped up and it moves but weak brakes, figure its adjustment, back up on blocks but rain stopping me doing much

 

[laurencen]

here is the forklift brakes adjusted to drag on drums, park brake works fine to lock wheels, once forklift comes in yard will lower it back on ground,

I fired it up to raise the mast and it died and refuses to start, I figure with only 20L of fuel in tank sitting at this angle the fuel pickup is not getting fuel, lets hope

 

[flyerdan]

That should be about a quarter to a third of a tank, it shouldn't run out. Hopefully just a plugged filter from junk stirred up.
Here's a pic of mine for reference. It's a H50H, 5000 pound cap. Not sure of the year but I was watching old episodes of Honey West a few years back and saw what looked like the same model, brand new.

 

[laurencen]

back on the ground and seem to have brakes, finally started lots of cranking, seems oil level in motor is way overfilled so oil change tomorrow, topped the hydraulic tank, anyone know if the hydraulic oil also runs the transmission, lost a couple quarts with the burst hose on the go pedal accelerator but could not see any filler or dipstick for transmission, it mover slugishly or Im just not running it like it needs

 

[laurencen]

back on the ground and seem to have brakes, finally started lots of cranking, seems oil level in motor is way overfilled so oil change tomorrow, topped the hydraulic tank, anyone know if the hydraulic oil also runs the transmission, lost a couple quarts with the burst hose on the go pedal accelerator but could not see any filler or dipstick for transmission, it mover slugishly or Im just not running it like it needs

anyone know where the oil level or dipstick to check powershift transmission

 

[laurencen]

after calling the Hyster service several times did get to talk to the tech, he insists the oil level stick is besides the oil dipstick, looked for a few hours and now I am certain the oil level stick is the hydraulic oil, all lines from pump to tank and transmission seem connected so certain its the one,

the motor oil is so bad if I get it on my fingers they stain black, not changed for a few decades, pumped out the oil new filter and new oil, will run it next week for a few hours then change it again.

the brakes are 100% after several adjustment sessions, altenator is not working so will just install a 80s GM one, easy hookup and no regulator

have a great weekend

 

[laurencen]

new week changed oil, filter topped hydraulic level and figured at least try it, cranked puffing white/grey smoke no fire so traced the intake heater, got it going even a small fire but still no start, the battery may be weak as Im assuming the charging is working which I have not verified so charge the battery and will try again tomorrow

temp is 9 deg C today rain on and off, weak battery and that will do it.

for this cold start system, what is the correct way to use it, hold the switch in for a time then crank? hold switch and crank right away, book explains how it works just not how to use