3-Point Hitch Hydraulic Top Link

[gunny0628]

RK 55 HST Cab

So I installed a hydraulic top link today and I originally put the connections in the B terminals on the rear remotes. The movement on the hydraulics were very choppy. And it felt like there was a stop gap when I moved the lever forward. Like a skip.

When I put moved the hoses to the A terminals on the rear remotes it was very smooth. Not sure why this was happening. Sorry if I didn’t explain it correctly.

Bill

 

[goeduck]

Do the B terminals get much use? Maybe they just need to be cycled some.

 

[gunny0628]

The tractor has 26 hours on it and nothing has been hooked up to the rear remotes.

 

[DK35vince]

Was the air fully purged from the cylinder/hoses when hooked to the first remotes ?

 

[gunny0628]

Was the air fully purged from the cylinder/hoses when hooked to the first remotes ?

Not sure how to do that?

 

[markie61]

I have the optional 3rd remote. The bottom set labelled A was hooked up to the backhoe. It has detents to lock it in on either side (keeping the fluid flowing constantly) so will not work on the HTL. The optional 3rd one on top is labelled C and does not lock in - like a joystick - fluid flows only when at either end and stops when released. The middle one labelled B was the first one I tried to hook my HTL to - something wasn't right: forward seems to lock it in like A and backward seems not lock in like C. Have not had a chance to look into it further. As usual, the owner's manual is lacking in information.
At this point, my HTL is hooked into the 3rd/C remote and works fine. So if your A is set up for backhoe with detents and your B is misbehaving like mine and you don't have the C, it will be hard to control the HTL.

 

[ovrszd]

Not sure how TYM sets up their rear remotes. Sounds like one valve is a SCV (Self Cancelling Valve) and the other is a float valve.

The SCV will have a detent in both directions. It only provides minimal flow until the lever is locked into detent. Not user friendly for something lile an HTL.

The Float Valve only has detent on the lowering end of lever movement. This opens the valve and lets the cylinder float. Spring loaded movement either direction provides excellent flow control. It's preferred for HTL use.

 

[gunny0628]

I only have two rear remotes. I tried B first and that one seems more like what markie said - it locks going forward, not when going backward - that is, pulling the lever or pushing it.

It’s now in A and behaving like it should. Very smooth, stays in position and acts much like the controls for the TPH.

I’m pretty confused, but at least the top link is working. For now.

 

[markie61]

Not sure how TYM sets up their rear remotes. Sounds like one valve is a SCV (Self Cancelling Valve) and the other is a float valve.

The SCV will have a detent in both directions. It only provides minimal flow until the lever is locked into detent. Not user friendly for something lile an HTL.

The Float Valve only has detent on the lowering end of lever movement. This opens the valve and lets the cylinder float. Spring loaded movement either direction provides excellent flow control. It's preferred for HTL use.

Hmmm...when I get the tractor back, I'll have to play with it and see what happens (right now, my wife is hogging it...) My A and C seem to work as designed/expected - my B threw me for a loop. Thanks!

 

[YLee Kioti]

So where did you acquire your hyd. cylinder if I may ask?

I now have a lot of dirt work coming and am considering a side link.

Thank you ...

 

[gunny0628]

So where did you acquire your hyd. cylinder if I may ask?

I now have a lot of dirt work coming and am considering a side link.

Thank you ...

I got mine off of amazon. But the manufacturer is Agristore USA.

 

[Rustyiron]

RK 55 HST Cab

So I installed a hydraulic top link today and I originally put the connections in the B terminals on the rear remotes. The movement on the hydraulics were very choppy. And it felt like there was a stop gap when I moved the lever forward. Like a skip.

When I put moved the hoses to the A terminals on the rear remotes it was very smooth. Not sure why this was happening. Sorry if I didn稚 explain it correctly.

Bill

If you put them back on the B circuit and they work smoothly after cycling your new cylinder 4-5 rims on the A circuit, you simply had not filled both sides of the cylinder yet. I've never gotten a new cylinder that was purged of air, then there are the hoses to fill as well.
In other words, I think your first hook up on the B pair was the purge that all new cylinders need but the jerky cyl. movement concerned you. Then hooked to the 2nd (A) pair your new cylinder was filled (or partially) with oil and with each cycling of the cyl. made an improvement until it's full. Remember, air can be compressed, liquids can not.

 

[YLee Kioti]

Thanks Gunny...have a great weekend...:thumbsup:

 

[gunny0628]

If you put them back on the B circuit and they work smoothly after cycling your new cylinder 4-5 rims on the A circuit, you simply had not filled both sides of the cylinder yet. I've never gotten a new cylinder that was purged of air, then there are the hoses to fill as well.
In other words, I think your first hook up on the B pair was the purge that all new cylinders need but the jerky cyl. movement concerned you. Then hooked to the 2nd (A) pair your new cylinder was filled (or partially) with oil and with each cycling of the cyl. made an improvement until it's full. Remember, air can be compressed, liquids can not.

Thanks Rusty. I’m gonna give it a whirl tomorrow.

 

[markie61]

Not sure how to do that?

On Tuesday while visiting my dad in Winchester, I stopped by the store. The tractor guy Eric wasn't there, but I hopped on a couple open-station RK55s - one S and the other H. Both had the stock A/B rear remotes. On both tractors, the A remotes were momentary at each end (ideal for HTLs) while the B remotes had detents/notches/locks in BOTH directions. Since my B is momentary in one direction but locks in the other (and it's not a "smooth" locking feel like my A remote or the other tractors' B remotes - needs some effort), I sent a note off to "Ask The Tractor Guy" this morning because my send is that something is wrong. I'll let you know what I hear.

 

[oosik]

You know - the one member here on TBN with probably the most knowledge on hydraulic top links - Brian at Fit Rite. You might give him a PM and see if he has your answer. I know you didn't buy from him but he's a good guy and always seems willing to help.

 

[ovrszd]

You know - the one member here on TBN with probably the most knowledge on hydraulic top links - Brian at Fit Rite. You might give him a PM and see if he has your answer. I know you didn't buy from him but he's a good guy and always seems willing to help.

I believe the issue is in the tractor valves, not the hydraulic top link.

 

[murphy1244]

You sure your remotes go side by side and not up and down?

 

[gunny0628]

You sure your remotes go side by side and not up and down?

Mine are labeled so I’m going with the label. sorry you’ll have to zoom in to see the labels. The pic was used for something else.

 

[gunny0628]

On Tuesday while visiting my dad in Winchester, I stopped by the store. The tractor guy Eric wasn't there, but I hopped on a couple open-station RK55s - one S and the other H. Both had the stock A/B rear remotes. On both tractors, the A remotes were momentary at each end (ideal for HTLs) while the B remotes had detents/notches/locks in BOTH directions. Since my B is momentary in one direction but locks in the other (and it's not a "smooth" locking feel like my A remote or the other tractors' B remotes - needs some effort), I sent a note off to "Ask The Tractor Guy" this morning because my send is that something is wrong. I'll let you know what I hear.

I’m interested to see if you get an answer.