Hydraulic top link

/ Hydraulic top link #1  
/ Hydraulic top link #2  
I like it a lot too, and I just walked up on it. :D You seem to have a great setup there, and not just the tractor and mower. Good for you! I hope it serves you well.
 
/ Hydraulic top link #5  
That looks like one of those gimmicky DPCV toplinks. Hate to burst your bubble, but that toplink is too short. Yes, it's great that you can lift up the deck and see underneath. But it also means you'll be mowing with the ram extended well past half its length. If you forget to pin the sidelinks before mowing some day, you're gonna bend it. If the seller is willing, I think you should trade that one in for a longer version. Nice looking tractor by the way.

//greg//
 
/ Hydraulic top link
  • Thread Starter
#6  
There are two lengths available of this top link
1) 21" retracted with a 11" stroke which this one is or
2) 18" retracted with a 8" stroke.

This top link is longer than my regular top link and has a 1.2" rod which seems quite strong. This link is made in germany and seems to be of high quality.

Cleat
 
/ Hydraulic top link #7  
I bought my toplink from Brian at Fit-Rite Hydraulics ( Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com). The service, packaging, and product are top-shelf. With Brian's toplink, his hydraulic restrictor, and a borrrowed boxblade, I was able to reconstruct a 400 ft gravel drive.

You cannot go wrong with Fit-Rite Hydraulics.
 
/ Hydraulic top link #8  
With my 1600lb 8ft bush hog, I am having to constantly readjust the length every 1-2 minutes. I'm trying to figure out if I should have bought one with a check valve or if a 1600lb implement is simply too much for the top link. I have the 2.5" cylinder with 1.5" rod and 10" stroke.
 
/ Hydraulic top link
  • Thread Starter
#9  
Mine never moves. You can raise the mower shut down the tractor and move the hydraulic levers and it still doesn't move. Unless you have hydraulic pressure it stays put. The pilot valves work very well and I am glad mine has them.

Cleat
 
/ Hydraulic top link #10  
With my 1600lb 8ft bush hog, I am having to constantly readjust the length every 1-2 minutes. I'm trying to figure out if I should have bought one with a check valve or if a 1600lb implement is simply too much for the top link. I have the 2.5" cylinder with 1.5" rod and 10" stroke.

If your disconnects are leak proof poppets, and you can safely disconnect them, if it still creeps, it is your cylinder packing. In industrial (most of my experience) I find it is usually the spool.

If a cylinder is in compression, a leak in the seal will not result in movement because it reverts to a simple ram. But you are likely talking about it leaking in the direction of ram extension, so a ram seal can cause that problem I believe.
 
/ Hydraulic top link #11  
This link is made in germany and seems to be of high quality.
It may say imported from Germany somewhere in your paperwork, however I think you'll likely find it was actually made in Turkey. But it's still too short.
Mine never moves. You can raise the mower shut down the tractor and move the hydraulic levers and it still doesn't move. Unless you have hydraulic pressure it stays put. The pilot valves work very well and I am glad mine has them.
But it's still a gimmick for a tractor as new as yours. The DPCV system only benefits owners who already have a hydraulic leakdown problem. You paid for a feature you don't need.

//greg//
 
/ Hydraulic top link #12  
With my 1600lb 8ft bush hog, I am having to constantly readjust the length every 1-2 minutes. I'm trying to figure out if I should have bought one with a check valve or if a 1600lb implement is simply too much for the top link. I have the 2.5" cylinder with 1.5" rod and 10" stroke.

Disconnect the QDs as was suggested and you will find out if it is the cylinder or the spool valve.

If it is the cylinder, let me know, if it was purchased from me I will take care of it, but I'm guessing that it is the spool valve.

Is the problem while you are in transport or while you are cutting?
 
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/ Hydraulic top link
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Well, they seem to make two models and mine is the longer one so obviously all is well. Top link will extend to 31" eye to eye which is longer than the manual one. The DPCV is the only way they sell it and it was under $200.00 (plus the hoses) so I think I got a good deal.
 
/ Hydraulic top link #14  
Cleat,


Nice setup there. I just ordered mine from Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics and am anxious to get it. I have a heavy duty bush hog that I would like to be able to raise for cleaning and inspection like yours. I also want to get a post hole digger and I'm guessing the top link would be nice for adding some downward pressure. Enjoy the new toy!
 
/ Hydraulic top link #15  
I'm guessing the top link would be nice for adding some downward pressure.
Nope. HTLs don't work that way. To lift an implement, the tractor pumps hydraulic fluid into the cylinder. But to drop one, it's nothing more than gravity that pushes that fluid back into the sump.

//greg//
 
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/ Hydraulic top link #16  
Disconnect the QDs as was suggested and you will find out if it is the cylinder or the spool valve.

If it is the cylinder, let me know, if it was purchased from me I will take care of it, but I'm guessing that it is the spool valve.

Is the problem while you are in transport or while you are cutting?

Will do. Thanks for the information. It is doing it while both mowing and during transport in the raised position.
 
/ Hydraulic top link #17  
Nope. HTLs don't work that way. To lift, the tractor pumps hydraulic fluid into the cylinder. But to drop, it's nothing more than gravity that pushes that fluid back into the sump.

//greg//

I misunderstood your post and thought you were talking about HTLs. But you are actually talking about the lift cylinder if I understand correctly.
 
/ Hydraulic top link #18  
Greg is correct. If you extend the top link it will only raise the lift arms, because they float, unless you have them mechanically locked. like the backhoe setup.
 
/ Hydraulic top link #19  
The PHD mounts where the top link mounts. To get a hydraulic to work properly with the PHD, you have to get or make the proper mounts so that you get down pressure at all. You need to change the double acting cylinder into a single acting cylinder along with a pressure regulater, bypass hose etc.

If you do not do all of these things, you will end up breaking SOMETHING.

Best thing to do if you want-need down pressure on your PHD, get a down pressure unit for that PHD.
 
/ Hydraulic top link #20  
Will do. Thanks for the information. It is doing it while both mowing and during transport in the raised position.

I'm confused, :confused: how or why does it make any difference while you are mowing? There are many people that use chain for the top link when mowing(not recommended by the way) or put the top link in float mode so that the mower follows the ground. The lower 3pt arms and tail wheel support the mower. The top link should not come into play at all.

Are you still running this on the Massey? Let me know how the test turns out. ;)
 

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