Hydraulic limb saw project.
- Thread starter Smokeydog
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D2Cat
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That's an amazing project! I appreciate the detail you show and explain. Any idea of total cost of materials? What size of tractor are you going to use this on? Thanks.
airbiscuit
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This project is great of course. It would be interesting to see if someone makes a cordless electric version.....
npalen
Elite Member
Another variation would be a swivel behind the saw to let it rotate 360 in the horizontal plane. Would exponentially increase the complexity, of course.
workinonit
Elite Member
If a circular saw cutting head were encorporated into the design that could be done. It really can't be done with the chain saw.
Not done yet.
The 3” tubing was ear marked 30 years ago from a cattle guard project. 2019 bought the most of hydraulic components from surplus center for about $400. Have about $200 in additional hardware. Spending time fabricating the past couple of months. Exploring optional chainsaw sprocket attachments. Saw arm attachment options to better control saw engagement pressure. Considerable time investment.
Considered the LimbSaw and think they make best attachments of this type.
Kubota M59 the tractor of choice. 59hp.
newbury
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Tractor of choice or best you had in the yard?
workinonit
Elite Member
I actually like the Limb Hog better than the Limbsaw. It's a much stouter implement. Not as heavy as yours but it is quyite a bit more robust than the Limbsaw.
D2Cat
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- Tractor
- Case730, Deutz 6206, Cat D2, Kubota L305, Kubota L4240, Kubota B7100HST, Kubota TG1860G, TG1860D
Do you have access to both pieces of equipment, or is this you opinion from ads?
Yes, Limbhog looks like a mighty fine tool. Stronger in the right places. Wish there was more owner reviews and feedback on all kinds. The successful operation of these kind of tools are very dependent on operator understanding the limitations and skills.
My design uses 5/8” pins and truck strap. I have never used one…yet. Just got the hoses and fittings to complete. Wahoo!
Fully assembled 230# dry weight. Hold about 1/2 gallon of fluid in 40’, 1/2” hose. Got help coming tomorrow to carry it out of the shop. Calibrate oil to chain and test.
Going to name it Model U235 (weight), tribute to Atomic City, Oak Ridge Tennessee. Same county (Anderson) just across the river.
Now got to figure out how to store this heavy thing, parking stand? Maybe with the truck strap suspended it from the ceiling of barn or tractor shed?
Going to name it Model U235 (weight), tribute to Atomic City, Oak Ridge Tennessee. Same county (Anderson) just across the river.
Now got to figure out how to store this heavy thing, parking stand? Maybe with the truck strap suspended it from the ceiling of barn or tractor shed?
airbiscuit
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- Joined
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- New Holland T2310 (40hp), Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA *** Previously - Farmall H, 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
D2Cat
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Smokey, for storage it would be easy to weld a couple of links from a chain to the top of the beam. Have them positioned so they balance the entire length. Then use a rope and pulley to pull it up out of the way in the barn. You could pick it up right out of the mounting pocket. When needing it again just reverse the process.
workinonit
Elite Member
I use chain falls to do this. I have one on my posthole digger and have it hanging from one under my shed. That's what I would do with one of these. 235 is pretty stout.
Had a buddy help install on tractor. He has decades of fabrication experience from aircraft, nuclear, to mining. Nice to have the experience critique.
The good:
Weight 235#.
Saw bar 20”.
Easy to adjust oil rate to one drop every 4 seconds at no load speed. After cutting today seems about right. The metering valve knob has a scale and a set screw to lock adjustment.
Top of bar to ground 24.5’ max.
Cuts fast! Maybe too fast.
3-4” limbs 1-2 seconds. 10” dead oak 10-15 including stopping to lower.
Like the slight angle on the saw arm. Aides in cutting from the top.
Really like the saw bar on the left. Better visual.
Have loader soft ride system. Left it valved in. It does allow some saw give and forgiveness.
HST best for maneuvering.
Very low noise. Nice!
No real issues of bar binding in the cut. Sure beats a polesaw.
Face sore from stupid grin.
Improvements:
Saw arm is too heavy causing too much pressure down on saw blade in some of the 10” thick Oak. Enough to stop the chain at idle. Need to find a fish scale to quantify the saw blade weight. Guess 40-50#??? now. Remember the weight from saw arm hinge, not the hydraulics, push the bar thru the cut. Increasing to 1400rpm helped. Took the motor cover off, 18# and help even more.
It works as is. But think I can NASCAR it up by trimming and skeletonizing the covers some. Also some HD bungees to counterbalance with the strap. Need to reduce weight needed to move the saw bar up to 20-30#. When stalled, often monetarily reverse then forward would continue the cut.
Nice having another person on thick cuts is helpful. Can see where a camera be very helpful.
Still building technique and skills. Can quickly cut down much faster than you can haul away. Like making many cuts up high than cutting manageable lengths on the ground. Safer too.
The good:
Weight 235#.
Saw bar 20”.
Easy to adjust oil rate to one drop every 4 seconds at no load speed. After cutting today seems about right. The metering valve knob has a scale and a set screw to lock adjustment.
Top of bar to ground 24.5’ max.
Cuts fast! Maybe too fast.
3-4” limbs 1-2 seconds. 10” dead oak 10-15 including stopping to lower.
Like the slight angle on the saw arm. Aides in cutting from the top.
Really like the saw bar on the left. Better visual.
Have loader soft ride system. Left it valved in. It does allow some saw give and forgiveness.
HST best for maneuvering.
Very low noise. Nice!
No real issues of bar binding in the cut. Sure beats a polesaw.
Face sore from stupid grin.
Improvements:
Saw arm is too heavy causing too much pressure down on saw blade in some of the 10” thick Oak. Enough to stop the chain at idle. Need to find a fish scale to quantify the saw blade weight. Guess 40-50#??? now. Remember the weight from saw arm hinge, not the hydraulics, push the bar thru the cut. Increasing to 1400rpm helped. Took the motor cover off, 18# and help even more.
It works as is. But think I can NASCAR it up by trimming and skeletonizing the covers some. Also some HD bungees to counterbalance with the strap. Need to reduce weight needed to move the saw bar up to 20-30#. When stalled, often monetarily reverse then forward would continue the cut.
Nice having another person on thick cuts is helpful. Can see where a camera be very helpful.
Still building technique and skills. Can quickly cut down much faster than you can haul away. Like making many cuts up high than cutting manageable lengths on the ground. Safer too.
airbiscuit
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2004
- Messages
- 7,613
- Location
- NW Wisconsin
- Tractor
- New Holland T2310 (40hp), Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA *** Previously - Farmall H, 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
Total Maximum height?
I'm guessing in practice, you have the bucket tilted forward unless estra height is needed?
How about a video?
Very nice!
I'm guessing in practice, you have the bucket tilted forward unless estra height is needed?
How about a video?
Very nice!
