Hydraulic hose replacement

[DadofTim]

Looks as if you can remove about 4 bolts and remove the rear cover of the control panel. The holes in either side of the mounting plate should allow you to poke an arm thru.

Get a 5 gallon bucket, set it by rear tire. Fill it with patience. Take your time, and when you find yourself running out of patience, reach in the bucket and grab some.

Not being mean. I've done these jobs before. Wish someone had told me about the bucket way back when.

Actually, Dad always did, just in a different way. "Slow down, take your time, getting rammy won't fix it, sometimes you have to walk away, take a breath, and it will fall right into place".

Miss his wisdom.

My Dad's adage was "Close up the toolbox, sit down on it, and think it through". Funny how wise Dads get as you get older.

 

[Flogger]

Double open end wrenches with 15* angle on one end and 60* angle on the other. They can be had at a reasonable price from Sheena or China if you prefer. I purchased my China set about 30 years ago and used them as a construction mechanic thinking I wouldn’t use them much. I reach for them as often as any tool in the box and when removing and replacing hydraulic lines they compliment the patience in that bucket like peas and carrots.

 

[Flogger]

You can loosen all the hoses on one end and then go to the other end and do the same BUT only remove one hose and then replace it so you don't mix up the connectiions

willy

Comm wire for hose id. 25 pair cable has all the colors one could want. When done I leave them on there for future use.

 

[Flogger]

I see that Amazon has some Ratcheting Crowfeet wrenches now. I was about to pull the trigger then read the reviews. Apparently, they still need some refinement. I held off. It's not even spring yet anyway.

Ratcheting open ends are a big time saver but they won’t break fittings loose. I have a couple of sets by Blue Point and don’t regret the purchase at all.

 

[DJ54]

Double open end wrenches with 15* angle on one end and 60* angle on the other. They can be had at a reasonable price from Sheena or China if you prefer. I purchased my China set about 30 years ago and used them as a construction mechanic thinking I wouldn’t use them much. I reach for them as often as any tool in the box and when removing and replacing hydraulic lines they compliment the patience in that bucket like peas and carrots.

It's been years since I've been around a Ford hoe, but on the last 2 Case Hoe's I had/have, an open end wrench won't fit between hose connections, so got a crow foot line nut socket, works great to get in between the close connections. Several specialty sockets tools have their own special drawer in the tool box so they don't go wondering off..

 

[Flogger]

O rings in the valve have nothing to do with oil coming out of the hose. O rings are to keep the oil from coming out of the valve where it is not supposed to. A small trickle might indicate a valve problem. A full blown leak would indicate a valve stuck partially open or pressure being put on the bucket or arm from another source such as the machine trying to move.

Since nobody else has said it I will warn you to not use your body to locate a leak. Use cardboard or paper. Oil under the skin can be life or limb threatening.

 

[Flogger]

A thought I had. You may have blown some o rings in a relief valve causing more oil to flow. Using the tractor to pull a stump with the backhoe as the chain/cable can blow out bypass valves.

 

[Flogger]

It's been years since I've been around a Ford hoe, but on the last 2 Case Hoe's I had/have, an open end wrench won't fit between hose connections, so got a crow foot line nut socket, works great to get in between the close connections. Several specialty sockets tools have their own special drawer in the tool box so they don't go wondering off..

I have a plethora of special tools purchased for hydraulic work. There is always some mechanical gymnastics required when working around valving.

 

[BylkaSmakom]

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