Hydraulic hose replacement

[Carl_NH]

A mobile mechanic with a truck and gear would be $120-150 hour here and probably two visits - one to dismantle, to get parts and the second to install them. Guessing at least 2 days $2K range for labor, then Hoses are $$$ 2-300 each depending on the fittings. Then the valve body may be just o-rings/seals if your lucky. You may be able to find a local mechanic type who does this on the side for less but the valve body can be intricate work.

 

[DJ54]

^^^^^^^ What he said...

 

[Swblack1216]

The only dumb questions are the one you don't ask. we're never to old to learn something.

Mike's idea sounds like the most feasible. Shouldn't take all that much to pull it out of the stump, once it's out stretch it out (you'll have to work the boom & stick levers to get it to do that.) and repair in place if it's possible.

Once the ends are loose, and clamps that hold the hoses in place should be that hard to remove the hose. I'd loosen both, then remove the one on the side the hose is on letting it drop down and maybe swing out of the way to get the hose out. When hose is replaced, you won't have to fight that clamp near as bad to get it back in place.

No matter how many tools you take to fix it you "think" you will need, more than likely you'll need 4 to 6 more. But you're gaining experience and can pass that on to someone else some day. We all learned somehow.

Thank you I have a Kioti ck 25

 

[sandman2234]

Can you even get mobile mechanics at $120 and hour? Maybe, but probably includes that cost during travel time. Recent automobile dealerships quotes have been $230 to $330 an hour at their shop!
David from jax

 

[sandman2234]

I skimmed over this thread, so there may be something I missed. However, ...
For the cost factor, I would seriously consider replacing the hose before calling a mobile mechanic simply because it eliminates that variable in the equation and allows the mechanic to zoom in on just what the problem is. I would make sure he is aware of the hose change, although he should be able to see it.
I would also look into having a rollback or Landoll trailer pick the unit up and hauling it to a shop if that is within a reasonable price cost. Working on hydraulic's in the field is never fun, while a warm clean shop tends to have better results.
David from jax

 

[Carl_NH]

Agreed sandman - replacing the hose leaves just one element to deal with - and maybe the unit would run/work to get it into a shop etc.

 

[true temper]

Just replace the hose and you will be fine. Nothing wrong with your control valve even a new one will leak by the spool a little bit. There isn’t any Orings in the valve to prevent it from leaking a little bit internally.
DJ54 is creating a problem that doesn’t exist.

 

[Mike1955]

I agree with Carl and true temper. Just change them, it just some time and dirt. Then determine if that other thing needs to be changed. It an old machine just use it and add a little oil a couple of times a year. Perfection and comfort are very expensive just roll up your sleeves

 

[DJ54]

Just replace the hose and you will be fine. Nothing wrong with your control valve even a new one will leak by the spool a little bit. There isn’t any Orings in the valve to prevent it from leaking a little bit internally.
DJ54 is creating a problem that doesn’t exist.

Definitely change the hose himself, but if as he stated "oil is pumping out pretty fast when I start the tractor" is more than I would expect to get past the spool. And yes, I did correct the statement I made earlier about thinking there may be O-rings on the spool internally, after looking up a similar Ford backhoe control.

I guess there is one way to find out...

 

[LouNY]

A bit cleaner way to find the correct hose or if a different leak would be to plug the return to the tractor and use some air to connected to the pressure in port. find the actual leak if unsure.

 

[DadofTim]

Looks as if you can remove about 4 bolts and remove the rear cover of the control panel. The holes in either side of the mounting plate should allow you to poke an arm thru.

Get a 5 gallon bucket, set it by rear tire. Fill it with patience. Take your time, and when you find yourself running out of patience, reach in the bucket and grab some.

Not being mean. I've done these jobs before. Wish someone had told me about the bucket way back when.

Actually, Dad always did, just in a different way. "Slow down, take your time, getting rammy won't fix it, sometimes you have to walk away, take a breath, and it will fall right into place".

Miss his wisdom.

My Dad's adage was "Close up the toolbox, sit down on it, and think it through". Funny how wise Dads get as you get older.

 

[Flogger]

Double open end wrenches with 15* angle on one end and 60* angle on the other. They can be had at a reasonable price from Sheena or China if you prefer. I purchased my China set about 30 years ago and used them as a construction mechanic thinking I wouldn’t use them much. I reach for them as often as any tool in the box and when removing and replacing hydraulic lines they compliment the patience in that bucket like peas and carrots.

 

[Flogger]

You can loosen all the hoses on one end and then go to the other end and do the same BUT only remove one hose and then replace it so you don't mix up the connectiions

willy

Comm wire for hose id. 25 pair cable has all the colors one could want. When done I leave them on there for future use.

 

[Flogger]

I see that Amazon has some Ratcheting Crowfeet wrenches now. I was about to pull the trigger then read the reviews. Apparently, they still need some refinement. I held off. It's not even spring yet anyway.

Ratcheting open ends are a big time saver but they won’t break fittings loose. I have a couple of sets by Blue Point and don’t regret the purchase at all.

 

[DJ54]

Double open end wrenches with 15* angle on one end and 60* angle on the other. They can be had at a reasonable price from Sheena or China if you prefer. I purchased my China set about 30 years ago and used them as a construction mechanic thinking I wouldn’t use them much. I reach for them as often as any tool in the box and when removing and replacing hydraulic lines they compliment the patience in that bucket like peas and carrots.

It's been years since I've been around a Ford hoe, but on the last 2 Case Hoe's I had/have, an open end wrench won't fit between hose connections, so got a crow foot line nut socket, works great to get in between the close connections. Several specialty sockets tools have their own special drawer in the tool box so they don't go wondering off..

 

[Flogger]

O rings in the valve have nothing to do with oil coming out of the hose. O rings are to keep the oil from coming out of the valve where it is not supposed to. A small trickle might indicate a valve problem. A full blown leak would indicate a valve stuck partially open or pressure being put on the bucket or arm from another source such as the machine trying to move.

Since nobody else has said it I will warn you to not use your body to locate a leak. Use cardboard or paper. Oil under the skin can be life or limb threatening.

 

[Flogger]

A thought I had. You may have blown some o rings in a relief valve causing more oil to flow. Using the tractor to pull a stump with the backhoe as the chain/cable can blow out bypass valves.

 

[Flogger]

It's been years since I've been around a Ford hoe, but on the last 2 Case Hoe's I had/have, an open end wrench won't fit between hose connections, so got a crow foot line nut socket, works great to get in between the close connections. Several specialty sockets tools have their own special drawer in the tool box so they don't go wondering off..

I have a plethora of special tools purchased for hydraulic work. There is always some mechanical gymnastics required when working around valving.

 

[BylkaSmakom]

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