Box Scraper Hydraulic float option for Category I hitch

[Farmer wannabe]

I have a box scraper attached to a JD 4320. The Cat 1 hitch is power up and gravity down. My responses aren't quick enough-even at slow speeds-to level uneven ground by process of cutting highs and filling lows. A friend helped with a larger commercial machine with Gannon having power up & down. Think there was also a "float" position that evened out the Gannon as the tractor drove over uneven ground. I know there are kits to get hydraulic power to the tractor's rear. My question: is there a hydraulic kit to get my scraper box to "float?"

 

[wvpolekat]

It does "float" vertically when lowered completely.

 

[Farmer wannabe]

When fully lowered my box scraper more or less follows the terrain contours it is traversing. That is, it mirrors the original ground contours (undulating) instead of creating a flat plane. I use word "float" to describe the up/down hydraulic pressure that somehow auto balances box's position to tractor.

 

[JB4310]

When fully lowered my box scraper more or less follows the terrain contours it is traversing. That is, it mirrors the original ground contours (undulating) instead of creating a flat plane. I use word "float" to describe the up/down hydraulic pressure that somehow auto balances box's position to tractor.

Welcome to TBN

I'm not sure there is an option for what you want.

I find the box will level uneven ground by just dragging in float (fully dropped) let the box fill up to gain some weight and keep going over the high spots, might have to lower rippers to brake it up. keep pulling it over the low spots. I've had pretty good luck.

once you get it close put a rake to it, The rake with wheels is the easiest implement to use, you don't even have to look back at it.

JB.

 

[kennyd]

When fully lowered my box scraper more or less follows the terrain contours it is traversing.

Then you need to add weight to the box, and/or adjust the top link shorter so it cuts more.

 

[gwdixon]

What you may be looking for is "draft control" where the 3PH automatically raises and lower in response to the amount of force being applied to the 3PH.

Some systems adjust by the top link while others use the resistance on the lift arm. I've never had one sensitive enough to self-adjust a box blade to level land. The geometry just doesn't seem to be right for a blade.

Usually draft control is used with a subsoiler, ditcher, middle buster, or plow to keep the implement from running too deeply.

 

[Farmer wannabe]

All: I appreciate your comments. Guess all I can do is revisit my setup and work on my technique.

 

[greg_g]

Guess all I can do is revisit my setup and work on my technique.

For now anyway. I have a 3720 that came standard with draft control. Before assuming that your 4320 did too, I took a quick look at the website. I was quite surprised to discover it's not spec'd with draft control. It might be worth a call though, to see if it's something that could be retrofitted at the dealer

//greg//

 

[jenkinsph]

I have a box scraper attached to a JD 4320. The Cat 1 hitch is power up and gravity down. My responses aren't quick enough-even at slow speeds-to level uneven ground by process of cutting highs and filling lows. A friend helped with a larger commercial machine with Gannon having power up & down. Think there was also a "float" position that evened out the Gannon as the tractor drove over uneven ground. I know there are kits to get hydraulic power to the tractor's rear. My question: is there a hydraulic kit to get my scraper box to "float?"

I do alot of boxblade and landplane/grader work with my 4520 which would be the same as your 4320. That said I think you need to slow down your forward speed of travel to a point where you have time to keep the boxblade adjusted. Operating a boxblade and doing it well takes alot of seat time imo. I Have a Gannon and top n tilt and sometimes I have to creep along making adjustments continuously to keep the box where it needs to be. I may stop completely to tweak the position before proceeding. At any rate with seat time you get faster and better at it.

 

[Degolyerent]

I have been using a box blade for 30+ years grading for concrete pours which takes a lot of skill but that comes with a lot of practice, I always set my hydraulic speed as fast as it will go and like one of the others said don't go faster than what you can control.
After 100 hours or so if you pay close attention to the quality of your work you should get pretty good