Box Scraper Hydraulic float option for Category I hitch

[Farmer wannabe]

I have a box scraper attached to a JD 4320. The Cat 1 hitch is power up and gravity down. My responses aren't quick enough-even at slow speeds-to level uneven ground by process of cutting highs and filling lows. A friend helped with a larger commercial machine with Gannon having power up & down. Think there was also a "float" position that evened out the Gannon as the tractor drove over uneven ground. I know there are kits to get hydraulic power to the tractor's rear. My question: is there a hydraulic kit to get my scraper box to "float?"

 

[wvpolekat]

It does "float" vertically when lowered completely.

 

[Farmer wannabe]

When fully lowered my box scraper more or less follows the terrain contours it is traversing. That is, it mirrors the original ground contours (undulating) instead of creating a flat plane. I use word "float" to describe the up/down hydraulic pressure that somehow auto balances box's position to tractor.

 

[JB4310]

When fully lowered my box scraper more or less follows the terrain contours it is traversing. That is, it mirrors the original ground contours (undulating) instead of creating a flat plane. I use word "float" to describe the up/down hydraulic pressure that somehow auto balances box's position to tractor.

Welcome to TBN

I'm not sure there is an option for what you want.

I find the box will level uneven ground by just dragging in float (fully dropped) let the box fill up to gain some weight and keep going over the high spots, might have to lower rippers to brake it up. keep pulling it over the low spots. I've had pretty good luck.

once you get it close put a rake to it, The rake with wheels is the easiest implement to use, you don't even have to look back at it.

JB.

 

[kennyd]

When fully lowered my box scraper more or less follows the terrain contours it is traversing.

Then you need to add weight to the box, and/or adjust the top link shorter so it cuts more.

 

[gwdixon]

What you may be looking for is "draft control" where the 3PH automatically raises and lower in response to the amount of force being applied to the 3PH.

Some systems adjust by the top link while others use the resistance on the lift arm. I've never had one sensitive enough to self-adjust a box blade to level land. The geometry just doesn't seem to be right for a blade.

Usually draft control is used with a subsoiler, ditcher, middle buster, or plow to keep the implement from running too deeply.

 

[Farmer wannabe]

All: I appreciate your comments. Guess all I can do is revisit my setup and work on my technique.

 

[greg_g]

Guess all I can do is revisit my setup and work on my technique.

For now anyway. I have a 3720 that came standard with draft control. Before assuming that your 4320 did too, I took a quick look at the website. I was quite surprised to discover it's not spec'd with draft control. It might be worth a call though, to see if it's something that could be retrofitted at the dealer

//greg//

 

[jenkinsph]

I have a box scraper attached to a JD 4320. The Cat 1 hitch is power up and gravity down. My responses aren't quick enough-even at slow speeds-to level uneven ground by process of cutting highs and filling lows. A friend helped with a larger commercial machine with Gannon having power up & down. Think there was also a "float" position that evened out the Gannon as the tractor drove over uneven ground. I know there are kits to get hydraulic power to the tractor's rear. My question: is there a hydraulic kit to get my scraper box to "float?"

I do alot of boxblade and landplane/grader work with my 4520 which would be the same as your 4320. That said I think you need to slow down your forward speed of travel to a point where you have time to keep the boxblade adjusted. Operating a boxblade and doing it well takes alot of seat time imo. I Have a Gannon and top n tilt and sometimes I have to creep along making adjustments continuously to keep the box where it needs to be. I may stop completely to tweak the position before proceeding. At any rate with seat time you get faster and better at it.

 

[Degolyerent]

I have been using a box blade for 30+ years grading for concrete pours which takes a lot of skill but that comes with a lot of practice, I always set my hydraulic speed as fast as it will go and like one of the others said don't go faster than what you can control.
After 100 hours or so if you pay close attention to the quality of your work you should get pretty good

 

[VA MTN MAN]

If you have wave like humps make your passes in reverse to start and this will cut the humps off before your wheels get to them. Set your top link so the back blade on the box is just below the front so it wont dig too deep. Then you can turn around to finish.

 

[/pine]

...Guess all I can do is revisit my setup and work on my technique.

If you have a hydraulic top link it makes things much easier...

I would start with the scarifiers fully extended and break it all up....keep working the high spots so the material is loosened down to the desired (flat) level)

Then raise the rippers and with the blade still set aggressively (forward)...push the box blade backwards over the area...

keep repeating until there are no more obvious high spots...

If you have an FEL...it can be smooted even more with some judicial backdragging with the heel of the bucket...

 

[kennyd]

For now anyway. I have a 3720 that came standard with draft control. Before assuming that your 4320 did too, I took a quick look at the website. I was quite surprised to discover it's not spec'd with draft control. It might be worth a call though, to see if it's something that could be retrofitted at the dealer

//greg//

Draft control on a 3720? New one on me...Where is the lever that control's it?

I think you may be confusing "position control" for "draft control"

http://www.tractorsmart.com/main/Tractor Three Point Lift Types.htm

 

[greg_g]

Thanks for clearing that up. A JD service truck mech referred to the linkage on the left side of the rear diff as "draft control". That confused me a bit, because I didn't see any means of toplink feedback like on my previous two tractors. He couldn't explain, so I just let it drop. Now I see I should have pursued that farther. It's pretty clear now that he incorrectly identified the position control feedback linkage as draft control

//greg//

 

[Farmer wannabe]

Thanks everyone. Your comments are helpful. I live in Southern NV. I used my tractor and its predecessor (another JD that burnt to the rims one sorrowful Christmas Eve) to build my house. In short, I love my tractor. I work hard to find every excuse to get in the seat, to grease it, to maintain it, to look for another excuse to buy an additional attachment, etc. The jist of your helpful comments is for me to get back in the saddle and practice--use makes master.

A man in our small community has about twelve ancient tractors (some steam powered) that he enters in the County fair every year. This year I intend to make his acquantaince and learn more about my tractor's roots.

Cheers

 

[Farmer wannabe]

If you have wave like humps make your passes in reverse to start and this will cut the humps off before your wheels get to them. Set your top link so the back blade on the box is just below the front so it wont dig too deep. Then you can turn around to finish.

I get your point. Good idea. That way the box acts more like a dozer.

 

[Farmer wannabe]

If you have a hydraulic top link it makes things much easier...

I would start with the scarifiers fully extended and break it all up....keep working the high spots so the material is loosened down to the desired (flat) level)

Then raise the rippers and with the blade still set aggressively (forward)...push the box blade backwards over the area...

keep repeating until there are no more obvious high spots...

If you have an FEL...it can be smooted even more with some judicial backdragging with the heel of the bucket...

Sorry -- what is FEL?

 

[jenkinsph]

If you can weld or have a friend that can consider building a landplane/grader as these things are great for smoothing out the bumps you speak of.

 

[kennyd]

Sorry -- what is FEL?

Front End Loader