Hyd. oil heater

[Mechanos]

Now that cold temps are here, I see a lot of discussions about block heaters, oil pan heaters, etc., etc. So, is anyone here using a transmission/hydraulic oil heater? I see that one is an available option on many models.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

The heater options are out there.

I think it may be a little like with a pick up truck. If it will not move when started you can let it warm up by running the engine. The hot engine will heat the transmission over time.

Some of it is 10 to 20 weight oil so it is pretty thin. I do raise the FEL some for a load but many tractor transmissions will put a load on the pump and start heat generation.

If it is zero F I sure would take it easy for a bit but it will be life/death matter before I will be starting the tractor at those temps. :thumbsup:

 

[beenthere]

I suppose a heater cannot hurt, but where are you located that you think you might need an oil heater?

 

[Mechanos]

I suppose a heater cannot hurt, but where are you located that you think you might need an oil heater?

I'm in the midwest, and don't really think that I need a hyd. oil heater... I was just curious how many people out there used them. Everyone is so concerned about starting their engines with cold oil, but nobody seems to be concerned about immediately pumping cold hydro oil through the trans, etc.

I've been told that after starting the engine and letting idle for a few minutes, I can close the rate-of-drop valve and move the TPH lever into a raised position to put the hyd. system into bypass and let it run for a few minutes that way to help warm the hydro oil. But I'm not totally convinced that is a good idea.

 

[bp fick]

I'm in the midwest, and don't really think that I need a hyd. oil heater... I was just curious how many people out there used them. Everyone is so concerned about starting their engines with cold oil, but nobody seems to be concerned about immediately pumping cold hydro oil through the trans, etc.

I've been told that after starting the engine and letting idle for a few minutes, I can close the rate-of-drop valve and move the TPH lever into a raised position to put the hyd. system into bypass and let it run for a few minutes that way to help warm the hydro oil. But I'm not totally convinced that is a good idea.

I think folks are concerned. But, the block heater to primarily to be sure the thing starts!!! If the engine isn't going to start, the cold Hydro is rather pointless.

Now, getting the hydro fluid to flow is a stinker at -10. First, if your tractor is exposed to those kinds of temperatures, the OEMs offer a very, very low viscosity fluid to assist in cold flow. Kubota, for example, is even coming out with a new Super UDT-2 for increased cold/hot protection.

Frankly, it takes forever to raise the hydro temps on a sub-zero day. Idling alone doesn't get the job done, imho. You do have to "exercise" the 3 pt, FEL and gently move the tractor a bit to actually warm the hydro. I find that it doesn't reach working temps for good while. Thus, most folks take it very easy on it for the first 15-20 minutes, but it must be actually operated to warm it up.

I don't think a hydro heater is a bad thing at all.

 

[wdchyd]

Try This......



http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2198619-post12.html


WC

 

[Mechanos]

Try This......



http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/2198619-post12.html


WC

Well, that sounds exactly like what I was told I could do. On my JD 955, if I completely close the rate of drop valve and then move the TPH lever to any raised position, the hydraulic system is dead-headed and goes into relief. Sounds like the same thing as holding the FEL controls hard over after the cylinders have reached the end of their stroke..... only you don't have to hold it there. But you do have to remember that you did and not walk off an leave it operating in that state. Manually holding the FEL control would provide a bit of a built-in fail-safe.

 

[s78wingrider]

Last winter I wrapped a heat tape around some of the metal Hyd. lines, Hyd. filter and engine oil pan and kept it plugged in most of the time. Don't know if it helped but I felt better about starting when it was cold and it always started.

 

[TCSavage]

I use both a block heater and a hydro heater on my 4210 and plug them in if the temp drops below 20º or so. The tractor is an excellent starter, however it is nice to have oil flowing right away.

 

[wdchyd]

Well, that sounds exactly like what I was told I could do. On my JD 955, if I completely close the rate of drop valve and then move the TPH lever to any raised position, the hydraulic system is dead-headed and goes into relief. Sounds like the same thing as holding the FEL controls hard over after the cylinders have reached the end of their stroke..... only you don't have to hold it there. But you do have to remember that you did and not walk off an leave it operating in that state. Manually holding the FEL control would provide a bit of a built-in fail-safe.

It does work and it doesn't cost anything but time to warm it up....(you'll be waiting anyway)......

How's that .....Free Advice and Free Hydraulic Oil Heater..:thumbsup:

 

[PILOON]

Just a thought;

All cars with automatic transmissions are filled with hydraulic oil.
Do we heat our transmissions?
AS a good owner/driver we sit and wait a few mins B4 driving off, don't we?

Honestly guys there is not a lot of differance between an automatic transmission and the hydraulics in our tractors, in fact our CUTs are much more rugged than our cars.

I think basic common sense should prevail.
Start the engine, idle for a while, excersize the hydraulics a bit and drive off.
The pump will circulate the oil and it'll soon be warm and fluid.

By common sense I define as don't load up the bucket as well as don't floor the throttle when cold. GIVE IT A BIT OF TIME.

 

[beenthere]

I was just ready to post when I read what PILOON had to say. He is right on in my book.

I haven't had any sluggishness even below 0 deg F. A bit of whine but that is understandable.

I start, raise the ballast on the 3 ph, raise the front plow and go. It all warms up as I am plowing snow or moving firewood. Whatever.

 

[Mechanos]

My first line of thought when making the original post had more to do with ease of starting. On an HST tractor with live hydraulics, the starter is not only turning the engine over, but is also turning the hydraulic pump as well. On some colder days, I've noticed that my starter won't even turn the engine over fast enough for it fire. And yes, my battery if fine.... brand new and fully charged.

Then it dawned on me that I'm using J20C spec hyd. oil and in the temperature range mentioned above, really should be using J20D. In this particular case, I can see where an oil heater would allow for easier starts in cold weather. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find a J20D spec "aftermarket" hyd. oil. JD is smokin' crack selling their hyd. oil at $80+ for a 5 gallon pail. I've been paying about half of that for "aftermarket" J20C hyd. oil.

 

[RADIUM]

One simple suggestion and I tell everyone this synthetic synthetic synthetic transmission fluid and engine oil I don't care how cold it gets within reason of course it runs like water try a test for yourself put a bottle of synthetic outside and some standard transmission oil and watch the difference of flow characteristics simple enough, I know it costs more money how much is your tractor worth? I constantly hear people tell me they're having starting trouble, my tractor lives outside under the big blue sky sits for weeks at a time kicks right over when ever I need her, probably maintain fuel, 0-40W engine oil , and synthetic transmission fluid for cold climates. It's really kind of amazing to realize how may times dealers don't explain this to their customers or properly prepare the tractors for the environments they're heading towards just makes you wonder who selling this equipment take care

 

[AKfish]

I'm not clear about where the OP lives.. However, most of the tractor owner's that live in the lower 48 states would probably not really need a transmission heater excepting maybe a handful of days in a given year.

And as other's have pointed out - slow and easy running for the first 15 minutes or so - and you won't have a problem.

Nonetheless, those of us in Canada and farther north (of course, those in the northern tier states: laying out $58.00 for the heater wouldn't be a bad investment) - a transmission heater is mandatory - IMO. Our family farm is just north of 60 degrees latitude.

I had one in my gear-tractor JD 970 for the 4 years I owned it and my JD 110 has had one installed from the factory (about 3 years now).

I use my tractor in the winter - minus 10, minus 20. My cutoff is minus 30 and below. It gets too easy to break stuff when it's down in the minus 30 and below range. :thumbsup:

Trees, limbs and stumps burn really, really well when it's a bit frosty! As a matter of fact; I don't normally burn at all during the spring, summer or fall months. Too easy to become liable for a forest fire...

AKfish

 

[dwost]

One simple suggestion and I tell everyone this synthetic synthetic synthetic transmission fluid and engine oil I don't care how cold it gets within reason of course it runs like water try a test for yourself put a bottle of synthetic outside and some standard transmission oil and watch the difference of flow characteristics simple enough, I know it costs more money how much is your tractor worth? I constantly hear people tell me they're having starting trouble, my tractor lives outside under the big blue sky sits for weeks at a time kicks right over when ever I need her, probably maintain fuel, 0-40W engine oil , and synthetic transmission fluid for cold climates. It's really kind of amazing to realize how may times dealers don't explain this to their customers or properly prepare the tractors for the environments they're heading towards just makes you wonder who selling this equipment take care

Ditto this advice. If it's got an engine one should be running synthetic period.