Howdy Guys! Newbie here!

[BarnieTrk]

I'm a mid-50s married guy living in mid-Michigan. I recently acquired a FORD compact tractor; #1720 with a 7108 front end loader, 4x4 with 3,100 hours on it's hour meter. I hope to learn some "Do's & Don'ts" with this new-to-me tractor from everyone here and maybe be able to share some of my hard-knocks experiences with you!

BarnieTrk :wave:

 

[deerseeker001]

Welcome from Wisconsin

 

[Thomas]

Welcome from the granite state.

 

[Utopia Texas]

If there is no written records of past service done to the unit it may be prudent to change out all the fluids and filters. Clean fluids with no moisture/water in them will go a long way in keeping your tractor running at its best for those number of hours. Spend the money now rather than wait until something big wears out or breaks. Might be a good time also to check out all the electrical connections to make sure the contact areas are shiny and snug especially from the battery. This includes the ground to tractor frame. Also make sure battery fluid in the past has not eaten out/rusted the battery holder too much underneath the battery. Congratulations!!!

 

[BarnieTrk]

Thanks for the warm welcome, deerseeker001 and Thomas! :biggrin:

If there is no written records of past service done to the unit it may be prudent to change out all the fluids and filters. Clean fluids with no moisture/water in them will go a long way in keeping your tractor running at its best for those number of hours. Spend the money now rather than wait until something big wears out or breaks. Might be a good time also to check out all the electrical connections to make sure the contact areas are shiny and snug especially from the battery. This includes the ground to tractor frame. Also make sure battery fluid in the past has not eaten out/rusted the battery holder too much underneath the battery. Congratulations!!!

Utopia Texas,
All good points - Thanks, UT! :thumbsup:

I did get an Owner's Manual, but Nope, NO service records came with it. But I have since started a Service Journal for it now that it is under my roof.

As a result, I have greased it, changed the front axle differential fluid, changed the fluid in both front wheel gear reducing boxes (one box had ICE in it!), changed the motor oil & filter, changed the coolant (adding a diesel supplemental coolant additive (SCA) as well) and cleaned the slide screen in front of the radiator, changed the fuel filter and cleaned the air filter(s). I did change the rear axle/transaxle/hydraulic fluid filter, but have not yet changed (approximately 7 gallons) the fluid yet. I have planned to remove the drain plug to inspect for any water lying in the bottom of the fluid reservoir unit.

I cleaned the electrical connections at the battery when I installed the new battery. I replaced one complete head light and the bulb to the other. I still need to locate a replacement fender-mounted red tail light fixture and at least one of the amber flashing light fixtures mounted on the side of the ROPS. I have/will use dielectric grease at these connections in an effort to keep them happy. Another good point you make - and that is I should remove/clean/replace the frame end of the ground cable.... I haven't done that yet either. Luckily, the battery box is in good shape. I did have to outfit it with a replacement battery hold down bracket, as it was missing one when I obtained the tractor. I would also like to add a white work light to shine to the back, maybe mounting it within/beneath the top cross member of the ROPS wired into the headlight circuit.

Lastly, I have replaced the leaky valve stem on one rear wheel and all four corners seem to be holding air fine now.

BarnieTrk :steeringwheel:

 

[wolftree]

Welcome, it sounds like you are taking a good approach.

 

[LarryD]

Welcome from the left coast.

 

[trgo]

BarnieTrk
Do you have CaCl in your tires?
If so, in my opinion you should get that Sxxx out ASAP.
I discovered that my 1989 Ford 1920 had two rusted out rims when I got the tractor home last month.
If you do have CaCl you will also have tubes, but the RimGuard people (Michigan) told me that all liquid filled tubes will eventually begin to sweat out a very small amount of liquid (CaCl) where the valve stems are vulcanized in.
I now have two new 12 x 24 rims (14.9 x 24 AG tires), and two new tubes. I have put two coats of marine epoxy on my new rims!
I am thinking about loading these with windshield washer fluid, as it is not corrosive, and MUCH less expensive than RimGuard. RimGuard (beet juice) at 11lbs./gal. is heavier than water, which is 8.33lbs/gal.). My tires will need 47 gal. (75%) each, which equates to 392 pounds of washer fluid per tire. The loader has 800lb. capacity, so nearly 800lbs. of additional wheel weight should be just fine. RimGuard would cost me $3.64 per gal. plus tax + install labor. RimGuard total cost, $443.64.
Fill cost with washer fluid, (est. $1.50/gal.) including $10 liquid self fill adapter from TSC is $160.21.
NOW: Where the hxxx am I going to find the best buy on 94 gallons of windshield washer fluid (-25F)?

 

[BarnieTrk]

Hi trgo,
No, I don't have any CaCl nor any other fluid in my 1720 rear tires. But thanks for the warning! :drink:
I haven't been in a situation that warrants the required ballast - yet. :scratchchin:

My leaky valve stem was leaking air is all. I unthreaded the outer portion of the valve stem on the rear tire and installed a new one; problem solved! 20#psi in the fronts and 16#psi in the rears.

NOW, I am currently dealing with - I think - a fuel problem. It was about 28*F the other day when I started the 3-cylinder diesel. I planned on letting it idle @ ~1000rpms for ~10 minutes before driving it and running the loader. By the time the 10 minutes had nearly passed & I had returned to the tractor, the engine was "surging". When I moved the throttle lever, it made no difference to the rpm level, as if it was disconnected. Sooooooo, I shut it off. Later, I removed the fuel filter outer cup and inspected the fuel; I saw no water in the fuel in the cup. I dumped the filter cup and 3/4 filled it with Power Service 911. Diesel 9 Then dumped the remainder of the container in the 8.5 gallon fuel tank on the tractor. I know, that is not exactly according to the product directions, but that is what I did. I plan to start and run the unit tomorrow, so I'll report back here as to how it behaves....... wish me luck!

BarnieTrk :steeringwheel:

 

[jedjoe]

Welcome from the Constitution State! Enjoy your Blue!

 

[BarnieTrk]

NOW, I am currently dealing with - I think - a fuel problem. It was about 28*F the other day when I started the 3-cylinder diesel. I planned on letting it idle @ ~1000rpms for ~10 minutes before driving it and running the loader. By the time the 10 minutes had nearly passed & I had returned to the tractor, the engine was "surging". When I moved the throttle lever, it made no difference to the rpm level, as if it was disconnected. Sooooooo, I shut it off. Later, I removed the fuel filter outer cup and inspected the fuel; I saw no water in the fuel in the cup. I dumped the filter cup and 3/4 filled it with Power Service 911. Diesel 9 Then dumped the remainder of the container in the 8.5 gallon fuel tank on the tractor. I know, that is not exactly according to the product directions, but that is what I did. I plan to start and run the unit tomorrow, so I'll report back here as to how it behaves....... wish me luck! BarnieTrk :steeringwheel:

Well, I did the PS 911 treatment yesterday, and today (42*F) it started, ran fine for about 5 minutes, I took it for a circle about the yard, and within another 5 minutes or so, it started to cut out and finally died. Now it sits in the yard under a tarp.....'cause it's supposed to rain/sleet tonight. I think I'll need to move this problem/discussion to a new thread!

BarnieTrk :muttering:

 

[ztrjim]

Welcome to the Tractor forums, you should enjoy your stay! :cool2:

 

[Sprinklerman]

Ok , I had a similar problem on my diesel air compressor . I was getting what looked like fibers in the diesel , It clogged the fuel filter and got in the electric ( non stock ) fuel pump . The engine would run at idle , but when it started under load it would spit and sputter , the rpms would go up and down. I added a second paper element fuel filter right out of the tank , it was cheap and it solved the problem . After about 25 hours of use that filter was all clogged up , I replaced it and the machine ran fine .

I just bought a NH 1925 similar to yours

 

[trmechapt]

I have seen almost new filters on those tractors need to be replaced because they wouldn't flow enough fuel to run above idle. They are cheap enough, just replace it.
Gary

 

[BarnieTrk]

Hi Fellas,
Not to worry any further..... my tractor is running fine again!

What happened? Well, I'm embarrassed to admit it, but I discovered that I topped of the fuel tank with about 3.5 gallons of GASOLINE instead of diesel fuel!
So, my fix was to remove the fuel line leading from the tank to the fuel filter, draining the tank and draining the filter housing cup. I then refilled the tank with fresh diesel fuel and purged the line via loosening the bleed bolt. The tractor started and now runs GREAT!!
A BIG THANKS to everyone for your suggestions and support! :drink:
BarnieTrk :cool2:

 

[sruman]

Thanks for the warm welcome, deerseeker001 and Thomas! :biggrin:



Lastly, I have replaced the leaky valve stem on one rear wheel and all four corners seem to be holding air fine now.

BarnieTrk :steeringwheel:

What size valve stem did you use? I have a Ford 1910 that I also need to replace the valve stem. Is there a size that I need to look for? Tractor Supply?

 

[BarnieTrk]

What size valve stem did you use? I have a Ford 1910 that I also need to replace the valve stem. Is there a size that I need to look for? Tractor Supply?

Sruman,
I don't know what size it was - I simply went to my local FORD / NEW HOLLAND dealership and they looked it up and sold it to me. I do recall that it is a two-piece unit... there is a section that is fastened to the wheel and another outer section that screws into it. The valve stem is inside the outer section. I simply unscrewed the outer section and screwed on the new one and,,, whalla!...all was well again! I doubt Tractor Supply would have it.......

BarnieTrk