Oil & Fuel Ford 1720 Hydraulic Fluid & Filter(s) change

[BarnieTrk]

Hi Fellas,
Yep, it's been awhile since I've been here. But I know this is the place to come looking for some expert guidance for my FORD 1720, a 1989 4X4 with FEL.

I have owned this tractor approximately 5 years and have put about 120 hours on it since then. It ran fine then and still runs ok now. When I first got it, I changed the spin-on hydraulic filter located on right side of the transmission, (Figure 50 in Operator's Manual) but not the fluid. Now I would like to change out the hydraulic fluid (finally) and the same filter again. But I have some questions:

My I&T Ford Shop Manual talks about many different tractor models and indicates "If equipped with double disc clutch....or If equipped with single disc clutch...." How can I tell what this tractor has? What difference does it make anyway?

-- The Operator's Manual only indicates the above hydraulic filter. Besides the one filter, does this tractor have any other hydraulic filters, screens or recommended 'stuff' that isn't mentioned but you fellas would recommend I should change when I change out the hydraulic fluid?

Thanks in advance for your advise, opinions and help, Guys!! :thumbsup:

BarnieTrk :drink:

 

[chander]

Regarding the clutch types, if it has a double clutch you can depress the clutch pedal about 3/4 the way down and the tractor stops moving, but the PTO keeps spinning. If you have a single clutch, PTO and tractor both stop moving.

The double clutch is useful with brush hog or finish mower to keep the PTO speed constant and using the clutch to slow or stop the tractor. If I remember right, the 20 series have a lever that flips out to limit how far you can depress the clutch. If you have that lever it has a double clutch.

As for fluids, I would change the oil in the front axle and the drop boxes. The front axle has a drain at the bottom of the center diff, and the drop boxes, remove the tires and the drain is more accessible.

Power steering fluid depending how many hours are on the tractor.

How about air filter, alternator belt , antifreeze and grease all chassis points( there are quite a few under the tractor also)?

If you have the factory manual, they give you good maintenance intervals for the above items ,plus some I didn't mention.

 

[BarnieTrk]

Regarding the clutch types, if it has a double clutch you can depress the clutch pedal about 3/4 the way down and the tractor stops moving, but the PTO keeps spinning. If you have a single clutch, PTO and tractor both stop moving.

The double clutch is useful with brush hog or finish mower to keep the PTO speed constant and using the clutch to slow or stop the tractor. If I remember right, the 20 series have a lever that flips out to limit how far you can depress the clutch. If you have that lever it has a double clutch.

Thanks for the explanation and anser to my first question, Chander. I'll have to look for the clutch lever and check the operation of the PTO as you indicated.

As for fluids, I would change the oil in the front axle and the drop boxes. The front axle has a drain at the bottom of the center diff, and the drop boxes, remove the tires and the drain is more accessible.

I have changed the front differential fluid and each front drop box. Yep, removing the front tires made that job easier. I soon realized the seal between the front pinion gear housing and the bevel gear housing leaks considerably on both sides. I have added LUCAS HUB OIL in an effort to slow the leakage, but the seals still leak considerably. I have to add front differential lube regularly. I hope to remove the FEL and break each side down to change those seals sooner than later.

Power steering fluid depending how many hours are on the tractor.

I was recently moving some dirt with the FEL and blew the seal out of the Power Steering (PS) slave cylinder; causing the PS fluid to shoot out everywhere! I removed the PS slave cylinder and tore it down and installed an O-ring/Seal kit. It's fine now - and has fresh fluid as a result.

How about air filter, alternator belt , antifreeze and grease all chassis points( there are quite a few under the tractor also)?

I changed the air filter and coolant when I first got the tractor. I've greased all the chassis and FEL points occasionally. The alternator belt appears to be fine. I have noticed a slight drip of coolant coming from the lower radiator hose at the engine, so I will likely remove the alternator to allow better access to the lower hose to change it out. I will plan to change the alternator belt at that time, per your suggestion.

If you have the factory manual, they give you good maintenance intervals for the above items ,plus some I didn't mention.

Agreed. As I recall, the manual also recommends checking the lifter lash too, but I haven't done that yet. I realize this tractor is WAY PAST DUE to have the hydraulic fluid changed, since it has ~3240 hours on the clock, and likely has never changed before now.

Thanks for the additional tips too, Chander! :thumbsup:

What can you tell me about my second question - Are there any other hydraulic screens/filters/adjustments I should make while doing this task?

And a third question: Is there a drain on the rear differential and a drain on the transmission - two drains - that I should uncork to change the complete hydraulic fluid system?
Thanks again in Advance for your assistance! -- BarnieTrk :drink:

 

[RickB]

Three drains, rear axle center section, transmission, drop box where the front axle driveshaft exits the rear axle center section.
There are no other screens or hydraulic filters. There is a year break on the hyd filter and they do not interchange. There is no need to dismount the loader to service the front axle hub or swivel seals.

 

[BarnieTrk]

Thanks, RickB! :thumbsup:

You made me go back to the manual to try to determine where to locate the "...drop box where the front axle driveshaft exits the rar axle center section.." Sure enough,,, there it was: Figure 48 in the Operator's Manual! :cool2:

So, once I've removed the three drain plugs, removed the single spin-on filter, I will refill the system with 28.5 quarts of hydraulic fluid. Will I need to bleed air out from any where or will all these areas/systems fill from that central fill location?

Thanks again! :thumbsup: -- BarnieTrk :drink:

(By the way - during my investigation for hydraulic system drain plugs while under the 1720, I see both Tie-Rod ends are in need of replacement! LOL)

 

[RickB]

Start checking the dipstick after about 5 gallons.

 

[BarnieTrk]

Start checking the dipstick after about 5 gallons.

Ahhh,,, is this due to the fact that some fluid will not drain out because it is trapped in the cylinders and hoses?

BarnieTrk :dance1:

 

[RickB]

That and other factors. The dipstick is there to monitor the fluid level. I never, ever add the published quantity of oil to anything without monitoring the fill level for the last x percent of capacity.

 

[BarnieTrk]

Yep, makes good sense. Thanks for the reminder, RickB! :drink:

BarnieTrk

 

[fried1765]

Regarding the clutch types, if it has a double clutch you can depress the clutch pedal about 3/4 the way down and the tractor stops moving, but the PTO keeps spinning. If you have a single clutch, PTO and tractor both stop moving.

The double clutch is useful with brush hog or finish mower to keep the PTO speed constant and using the clutch to slow or stop the tractor. If I remember right, the 20 series have a lever that flips out to limit how far you can depress the clutch. If you have that lever it has a double clutch.

Thanks for the explanation and anser to my first question, Chander. I'll have to look for the clutch lever and check the operation of the PTO as you indicated.

As for fluids, I would change the oil in the front axle and the drop boxes. The front axle has a drain at the bottom of the center diff, and the drop boxes, remove the tires and the drain is more accessible.

I have changed the front differential fluid and each front drop box. Yep, removing the front tires made that job easier. I soon realized the seal between the front pinion gear housing and the bevel gear housing leaks considerably on both sides. I have added LUCAS HUB OIL in an effort to slow the leakage, but the seals still leak considerably. I have to add front differential lube regularly. I hope to remove the FEL and break each side down to change those seals sooner than later.

Power steering fluid depending how many hours are on the tractor.

I was recently moving some dirt with the FEL and blew the seal out of the Power Steering (PS) slave cylinder; causing the PS fluid to shoot out everywhere! I removed the PS slave cylinder and tore it down and installed an O-ring/Seal kit. It's fine now - and has fresh fluid as a result.

How about air filter, alternator belt , antifreeze and grease all chassis points( there are quite a few under the tractor also)?

I changed the air filter and coolant when I first got the tractor. I've greased all the chassis and FEL points occasionally. The alternator belt appears to be fine. I have noticed a slight drip of coolant coming from the lower radiator hose at the engine, so I will likely remove the alternator to allow better access to the lower hose to change it out. I will plan to change the alternator belt at that time, per your suggestion.

If you have the factory manual, they give you good maintenance intervals for the above items ,plus some I didn't mention.

Agreed. As I recall, the manual also recommends checking the lifter lash too, but I haven't done that yet. I realize this tractor is WAY PAST DUE to have the hydraulic fluid changed, since it has ~3240 hours on the clock, and likely has never changed before now.

Thanks for the additional tips too, Chander! :thumbsup:

What can you tell me about my second question - Are there any other hydraulic screens/filters/adjustments I should make while doing this task?

And a third question: Is there a drain on the rear differential and a drain on the transmission - two drains - that I should uncork to change the complete hydraulic fluid system?
Thanks again in Advance for your assistance! -- BarnieTrk :drink:

You should really have a FORD manual for your 1720.
It has a 2 stage dry clutch.
There is a FORD OEM (copy) manual available from ...themotorbookstore.com.... $41.95