How Would You Fix This Bridge?

[jyoutz]

OK, you asked for suggestions. Here goes:
That's a nice project. BTW, & congratulations on getting 100+ years on the original.
Concrete box culverts are very nice, but spendy. But do that if you can afford it. Steel culvert is way less expensive, & 100 years is reasonable. Steel culvert quality varies a lot. Some of the better is heavier gauge and coated.

Just guessing based on our area, these 4 items listed below on a rural job, on a private road to private land could cost as little as $5K each or as much as twice that. Allow the same $5K for overruns and so you are at $25K. min. here. Not bad compared to $50K, and frankly the $50K you were originally estimated too far isn't out of line if this road sees tonnage or has to be rated in any special way - for fire trucks for example.

1. I would call around and see if I could get an older professional civil engineer on my side. His stamp will be needed, and he can design alternatives for some regulations. He has probably dozens of this type repair & has stream data and local knowledge.

2. Ask around to see if anyone sleeves old culverts. A 5 foot sleeving for existing 6 foot pipe can be considered a temporary internal diversion since it prevents the construction muck from being carried downstreanm - which from your photos is what is happening with the undermining going on right now. The civil engineer will need to draw up plans for the DEP so that the sleeving is an acceptable temporary bypass.

3. Expect to put in a pair of new six foot culverts - one on each side of the central sleeved pipe...or whatever fits. It's good practice to ALWAYS put in two or more same size culverts side by side - each one sized for full flow. Climate change means local flooding, so an even better idea is to have one or more offset above the others in case of flood debris plugging the lowers. This is the time to do this job because most local codes haven't changed as much as the climate will....yet.

4. Plan for a large excavator. Looks like a one day job but allow for two. The excavator should already have knowledge/permits for working around power lines.
Tell him he may need to do some compaction around and between culverts. He will know that anyway..
You could make back some of your cost if the culverts displace enough decent dirt to avoid having to bring in fill. But you won't know that until you dig.

5. Put the guard rails back to code.

Good luck,
rScotty

I will add that if you go the twin culvert route, then plan a dip in the road at the low point of the crossing. This is to allow for flood overflow when the culverts are at full capacity. It will help to keep the road from washing out.

 

[Snobdds]

You have to be careful working in the water. A local RV park, put a bridge over a 20-year event, high water slough on their property. The owner got fined $50K. The contractor who installed it got $50K and a five year ban from bidding public works projects. The engineer who designed and sealed the project got $50k against a $10k fee, and a five year probation status on his license. Now this is the Salmon River, which has five species which are critically endangered, endangered, or critical. So, the environmental folks were pretty upset.

All that fear mongering and failed to tell how all these people got it wrong.

Context would be more helpful that fear mongering.

 

[GrandpaSmurf825]

Railroad cars have age limits, so I suspect most of those available are aged out, not damaged.

For example:

AI Overview

Railroad tank cars in general interchange service must generally be replaced or retired at 50 years of age. Cars built before July 1, 1974, were limited to 40 years, while newer cars or those with approved rebuilds (AAR Rule 88) can operate up to 50 years, with some specialized designs allowed to reach 65 year

I've not looked into buying a used tank car so I don't know what is being offered. However I have been around/worked numerous derailments and observed plenty of incidents in rail yards. Derailments are almost a guarantee they won't ever be used in rail service again. I'm not talking about a derailment where they just went on the ground during a switching move at low speed. I'm referring to a mainline derailment that leaves many times cars on their sides or even piled up. These cars won't ever be used again. If the contracted scrapper wants to salvage the tanks they can. All the wheels, axles, truck frames, etc. are made unusable. Axles cut in half, wheels with the center cut out, and frames cut in half etc. They won't risk the liability.
Yard incidents are more often damage from sideswipes. A cut parked to close to a switch and the adjacent track movement strikes them. In those situations if there is only damage to grab irons, steps, ladders, and nothing to the actual body then it will normally be repaired unless they are almost to the end of their life. If the damage is more severe like a caved in area on a tank car there is little chance it will be repaired. Structural integrity has to be maintained along with being able to be certified for all sorts of liquids. If there is any doubt whether these standards can be met they are scrapped. The tank is after all also the frame.

I suspect AI has never been in a rail yard or let alone out on the main line of any Class 1 railroad. This is my overview after spending 27 years out on the tracks. No AI needed.

You can date any type railcar in use. There is a placard of sorts that gives the date manufactured, and if it's ever been rebuilt that date also listed.