How would you do this roof?

[jake98]

I must be missing something, how is that 'center truss horizontal rafter' method any better than a standard cathedral with a load bearing ridge?

 

[magicheater]

I must be missing something, how is that 'center truss horizontal rafter' method any better than a standard cathedral with a load bearing ridge?

Structurally probably not much difference. Cost wise maybe some difference. Aesthetics, maybe so. Adaptability for insulation, no walls so why plan for it. Availability of material, perhaps some merit. ease of construction...maybe.

 

[jake98]

I'm still scratching my head over it.. I can't come up with one reason why anybody'd frame it like that. Even if the point was to put the weight over the center posts, why run the rafters sideways? (assuming they could design a way to hang a structural ridge to a center truss, a center beam with a post to the ridge would do the same, but I'd think they'd just go the whole length with a bigger micro-lam ridge..)
I dunno..

 

[piller]

I like traditional timber frame structures, and they could work, but they are expensive and time consuming.
Do you plan for the spa to be centered in your 18x18 structure?
Do you want a truss over the center of the spa, or did you want it open?

 

[handirifle]

I'm still scratching my head over it.. I can't come up with one reason why anybody'd frame it like that. Even if the point was to put the weight over the center posts, why run the rafters sideways? (assuming they could design a way to hang a structural ridge to a center truss, a center beam with a post to the ridge would do the same, but I'd think they'd just go the whole length with a bigger micro-lam ridge..)
I dunno..

Jake
The only reason for the horizontal bracing is for support for the roof sheathing. I have measured the true distance between the posts and it will be 8'2" CTC. The spa pad is 18'x18', bot not the posts. With over 8ft between posts, and trusses, there is zero support for the sheathing.

The horizontal 2x4's will provide this, as well as a nailing surface.

As for a cathederal beam, there is no center post in the front, to place the load of the beam on. In the front, it is nearly an 18ft span.

dcyrilc

The long rear post is a great idea, but I see no way to make it work for me, am I missing something?The post bracket for the rear center post, is like the two rear corner post brackets, set in concrete. And they are all three on the same line. The center rear post, would bisect the rear truss.

I see the rear post in the attached link, but did they build the truss around it, or behind it? If my rear truss goes from post to post, then the rear beam can go no higher than the bottom of the truss. I am supposing, now, that I should have done all this BEFORE I had the pad poured, but too late now, so I have to work with what I have.

 

[dcyrilc]

dcyrilc

The long rear post is a great idea, but I see no way to make it work for me, am I missing something?The post bracket for the rear center post, is like the two rear corner post brackets, set in concrete. And they are all three on the same line. The center rear post, would bisect the rear truss.

I see the rear post in the attached link, but did they build the truss around it, or behind it? If my rear truss goes from post to post, then the rear beam can go no higher than the bottom of the truss. I am supposing, now, that I should have done all this BEFORE I had the pad poured, but too late now, so I have to work with what I have.

My posts are also inline. The outer truss nails to the outside of the posts (all three) and 2x6s are nailed vertically to the posts below them for additional support. The bottom of those 2x6s could be beveled to create a more finished look.

I think what I'm talking about shows in this pic.

 

[Cat_Driver]

Others have explained the traditional way to do the look.

Now a days you can do that look with foam beams and the smaller rib looking wood could be nothing more that 1/4" slices of 2"x4"'s. That if you just want the "look".

I was in a resort once and it was loaded with beautiful looking beams throughout the lobby, then one day it rained and the roof leaked and one of the "beams came down and it was nothing more that Styrofoam.

See them here:

Faux Wood Beams | The Look of Natural Wood for Less

 

[magicheater]

I'm still scratching my head over it.. I can't come up with one reason why anybody'd frame it like that. Even if the point was to put the weight over the center posts, why run the rafters sideways? (assuming they could design a way to hang a structural ridge to a center truss, a center beam with a post to the ridge would do the same, but I'd think they'd just go the whole length with a bigger micro-lam ridge..)I dunno..

Framing it like that provides nailers for metal roofing.

 

[handirifle]

OK I see how the rear post/trusses work. But doesn't that sort of negate the support of the beam, from below on the ends?

Let me ask this, from a different angle, would it be a bad idea, to set the rear truss directly over the two rear corner posts, and trim the top half of the rear center post to allow the truss to sit inline over the rear posts? In otherwords, instead of being a 6x6 (actually 5 1/2 x 5 1/2) to being 4 x 5 1/2, and the truss member would fill in the other 1 1/2". Nope, on second thought that won't work cause they're double trusses.

No, I can't see it working on my setup, unfortunately.

I will look into the "X" bracing a little more, that might be my best option.

The horizontal "rafters" are not for nailing a metal roof on, at least not for my application. here simply isn't anything to nail the sheathing to. Nailing the sheathing on 8' CTC would make a really bouncy roof. I could always do the standard rafter setup, but not sure I want a 2x6 underneath.

I will also look into the cost of tongue and groove boards, either 1" or 2" as opposed to sheathing.

 

[handirifle]

Cat driver
I have seen those, and didn't really like them.