How to transition to MIG?

[BigBlue1]

Did you ever mention what auto dark helmet you bought?

An inexpensive import from Amazon. It has a large screen and the features I was looking for. It has pretty good reviews though and a large number of them. I'd have to spend over $250 for a name brand one that is comparable.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RS5Q55K

Rob

 

[Big Barn]

Looks good. At least one of my helmets has a large view and truthfully I should pay more attention to it’s benefits.

Common sense would dictate that a bigger view is better but I always figured one should be focusing on the puddle and not anything peripheral.

 

[rangerfredbob]

I should get one with a bigger viewing area, sometimes I can't get my head into that perfect spot so kinda weld by braille which works as expected most of the time

 

[MF243RedTop]

Only ever stick welded... But the one time I did pick up a mig... My exhaust hanger broke on my old 90 Silverado... Being it was those thin sheet metal types, l pulled up to my brother's house and went to getting his new mig setup.. had only watched him a few times .
After a few practice passes on a piece of scrap...
I welded that exhaust hanger back together.

From that experience alone...

"If you can stick weld, you'll have no problems with MIG"

 

[coxhaus]

BigBlue1 you are looking good. Now that you know what it looks like with no gas keep an eye out in case the wind blows too hard or you develop a gas leak. If you see holes develop it is probably something related to your gas. You are going to like MIG. MiG makes pretty welds with C25 gas.

When I bought my Hobart 210 they had a 1/2 price sale on helmets so I bought my first auto darkening helmet. It was a Lincoln 3350 with C4 technology. I think it was $115 or 120 I don't remember. But it sure made me a better welder.

 

[ArlyA]

I'd say .035 wire and an auto darkening helmets, are your friends :thumbsup:

 

[Big Barn]

I'd say .035 wire and an auto darkening helmets, are your friends :thumbsup:

BEAUTY!

 

[searcyfarms]

FWIW, - if you check my big brother post here, you can see some pix of my first impressions/welds with mig personally just today - here is what i will say as i transition, I absolutely AM NOT liking the big tip of the mig, its difficult to see around and you cant just move like you would with a stick as it blocks the ability to see your puddle and keep things moving/lit etc......

My other observation is I got a new helmet, well used but new to me, its a miller digital elite stars/stripes - my biggest complaint so far is it allows light up under teh helmet and reflects and makes it hard to see also. I put my old flip down on and it doesnt do it like the miller. Thoughts on that?

 

[dragoneggs]

Maybe a stupid question, but did you adjust the head gear in the helmet best you can? I think the wire shield you will get used to pretty quickly.

 

[yomax4]

Many variables on window size. You really don't need a huge viewing window to weld if you can get into position. Glasses or sunglasses don't have a very big viewing area. A couple pluses for large viewing area are just that the farther apart the sensors are the more chance of them doing their job. Sometimes if I can't get my big head in a repair area I'll have to look out the ear hole so to speak. Most pipe welders still use 2x4 lenses only. Clarity and optics are more important than viewing size in my opinion but I use the largest lens just the same.

 

[BigBlue1]

FWIW, - if you check my big brother post here, you can see some pix of my first impressions/welds with mig personally just today - here is what i will say as i transition, I absolutely AM NOT liking the big tip of the mig, its difficult to see around and you cant just move like you would with a stick as it blocks the ability to see your puddle and keep things moving/lit etc......

My other observation is I got a new helmet, well used but new to me, its a miller digital elite stars/stripes - my biggest complaint so far is it allows light up under teh helmet and reflects and makes it hard to see also. I put my old flip down on and it doesnt do it like the miller. Thoughts on that?

I did see your thread too. Looks like we're both making progress on this front.

As for the nozzle size, you can buy different nozzles for flux welding that are narrower at the end. The metal tip actually sticks out past the nozzle on these. At least this is true for Hobart welders, so I assume Lincoln has them. That may aid your visibility issue at least if you use flux wire.

Have fun with the new setup.

Rob

 

[Big Barn]

Many variables on window size. You really don't need a huge viewing window to weld if you can get into position. Glasses or sunglasses don't have a very big viewing area. A couple pluses for large viewing area are just that the farther apart the sensors are the more chance of them doing their job. Sometimes if I can't get my big head in a repair area I'll have to look out the ear hole so to speak. Most pipe welders still use 2x4 lenses only. Clarity and optics are more important than viewing size in my opinion but I use the largest lens just the same.

Interesting. I had not thought about the sensors.

 

[BukitCase]

Guys, a couple of things - I've never used flux core, bought a MIG so I could get AWAY from a bunch of cleanup - I have seen others just take the nozzle OFF the gun for flux core, but the factory adapter keeps the threads, etc, from getting messed up.

Helmets - most of 'em let light in, but the auto darks are so much less of a PITA for changing shade it's usually worth the irritation. I keep meaning to take some thin leather and build both a "beard" and a hat to rivet onto at least one of mine, just haven't got to it yet.

MIG is definitely a different animal than stick for visibility; the only angle I've found that works is to be alongside the weld path, not behind it - from there you can tell if your stickout is right, if your slight rearward tilt of the wire is right, etc - it DOES make it a bit harder to keep the bead STRAIGHT, but not impossible. If you want even MORE "fun", try a full size spool gun 10 feet in the air with a 6-7 mph wind - the plywood in the background was clamped to the .120 wall 2" tubing to block some wind; I also upped the gas to around 25 scfh instead of the usual 18-20. Can't really blame the vertical on wind, I just suck at vertical up... These others (all untouched after weld) were inside with normal mig gun, MM252/.035 Lincoln L56 wire/C25 gas -
This is the roof frame where they eventually ended up -


I'm now on my second and third MIG, bought the first one (now belongs to a friend) at least 10 years ago and since then I've used stick maybe TWICE - everything else gets done with the same combo mentioned above, from welding 14 ga. fence wire to emt conduit, up to 3/4" flat bar for 20 ton bending jigs. Best advice I ever got was from Jody at weldingtipsandtricks.com - specifically, to stay at the front of the puddle (in direction of travel), and NOT assume you're getting penetration unless you SEE the arc touch the parent metal.

HTH... Steve

 

[searcyfarms]

yea i had it down against my chest but when i look to try to get around teh edge of the piece im working on to see the tip/puddle i find i move more than i did with stick and those angles are letting in more light, i do notice it on the stick but not as much with my older helmet with the smaller flip down screen, im thinking im going to have to pop rivet some leather on or something to block it if not go to a smallr window and different helmet

 

[searcyfarms]

i probably wont venture down the road of flux core, if i want to make splatter i will do that with my stick, i got it mainly for doing thin and portable stuff. i will probably get some flux core for a pinch to be more portable for thin stuff but i still am amazed at how different it is to weld at poor angles vs getting a stick into a place you need it to be, very different for sure, time will help me get the knack but i dont see this replacing my stick welding anytime soon

 

[searcyfarms]

when transitioning to mig like me..............dont do this!!!:mur:

 

[yomax4]

That happens whether you are transitioning or not. Happened today. Bigger spools have less cast and helix so they are a little more manageable.

 

[searcyfarms]

im glad im not the only one, i almost said a bad word

 

[coxhaus]

You are not the only one, just cut it off and move on.

If it is an older spool then sometimes it is a good thing as the top layers build up corrosion which can cause bad things.

 

[Big Barn]

Been there done that. Little rolls can be finicky to handle especially when you’re in one of your “all thumbs”modes
LOL.

As coxhaus said snip and move on.