How to lube Husq sprocket tip

[NibbanaFarm]

Greetings. I bought a new 20" Husq bar and chain for my 445 at Tractor Supply. Every other sprocket tip bar I've had for any chainsaw has had a small hole to lube the tip with grease. This new Husq bar doesn't have any hole. How do I lube this thing? Any ideas?
Thanks.
Nibbana

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Dip in oil.

 

[5030]

You cannot. It's sealed for 'life' whatever life is. Could be years, could be hours. Why I buy Carleton bars with replaceable, greaseable roller noses from Baileys.

Just my preference. Never had a roller nose fail, ever. I've worn out bars in the past however. When the bar looses all rock, I spin or grind out the rivets on the nose and put it on a new one.

 

[5030]

I see Stihl is going to the sealed roller nose as well.

 

[RandyT]

I see Stihl is going to the sealed roller nose as well.

Stihl has been using the sealed nose bars for years. First I have heard on Husqvarna but the general rule has always been either grease it every use or don't grease at all Intermittent greasing is the biggest issue they claim that leads to failure.

 

[grsthegreat]

My stihl doesnt have one, and bar is over 20 years old. I would think oil from chain oiler can handle the lube.

 

[5030]

All depends on how you use the bar and how much swarf gets lodged in the sprocket bearing actually. Plunge cutting can and will cause roller nose failure and I grease mine before every use anyway.

 

[Cycledude]

My Husqvarna dealer told me over 40 years ago not to bother with greasing the roller because they usually last longer when not greased, greasing seems to force dirt into the bearings

 

[John_Mc]

I have not greased a bar tip in 15 years and have not had problems using mostly Oregon or Husqvarna and Jonsered bars, even with lots of bore cutting. I did lose the tip on a Tsumura bar after what I thought was rather short usage, but those bars are known for having weak tips.

Some chains claim to do a better job of distributing oil along the bar as well. I've never really tried to track that.

 

[NibbanaFarm]

My Husqvarna dealer told me over 40 years ago not to bother with greasing the roller because they usually last longer when not greased, greasing seems to force dirt into the bearings

I've owned a Pioneer, McCullock and Homelite in the past. Always greased the sprockets and never had a problem. I bought the Husq 445 new five or ten years ago. It came with a 16" bar with greaseable sprocket tip. I usually grease it every day. I was cutting up a tree in January and forgot to grease the tip and it seized up. I was able to free it up and get grease in there and it's fine now. Surprisingly, the owner's manual says to grease it each time you refuel. I bought the 20" bar for a bigger job. It's the first I've ever seen that wasn't greaseable.

 

[Jstpssng]

I haven't greased the tip in years. There are two schools of thought; grease it often, or not at all.
If you don't grease, the B&C oil keeps it lubed. If you do grease, do it often. The grease forms a ring around the bearing, which prevents the oil from getting to it.

 

[5030]

Some are, some aren't. All mine are and if any dealer told me not to grease a sprocket nose, I'd not be going there anymore. He's FOS.

 

[5030]

I haven't greased the tip in years. There are two schools of thought; grease it often, or not at all.
If you don't grease, the B&C oil keeps it lubed. If you do grease, do it often. The grease forms a ring around the bearing, which prevents the oil from getting to it.

If you say so. I don't see that myself.

 

[5030]

Obvious to me the OP cannot differentiate between the Word Husqvarna and the more common term 'Husky'.

 

[turnkey4099]

My stihl doesnt have one, and bar is over 20 years old. I would think oil from chain oiler can handle the lube.

Yes, that is new method, bar and chain oil takes care of any needed on the nose also. I have worn out one nose sprocked since the greaseless thing came in but that bar had eaten years and hundreds, possiblly into the thousands of cords of wood. It didn't owe me anything.

 

[5030]

I'd like someone to explain to me how the needle bearings in a sprocket nose can be lubricated by bar oil when the bar oil is flung by centrifugal force away from the sprocket tip...

Why I only buy greaseable sprocket nose bars. Candidly, I don't care what anyone does. What I do and what you do are different things. As an aside, all professional sprocket nose bars like Carleton's for instance, have greaseable noses. What I run, always have. I grease them before every use.

 

[4570Man]

I'd like someone to explain to me how the needle bearings in a sprocket nose can be lubricated by bar oil when the bar oil is flung by centrifugal force away from the sprocket tip...

Why I only buy greaseable sprocket nose bars. Candidly, I don't care what anyone does. What I do and what you do are different things. As an aside, all professional sprocket nose bars like Carleton's for instance, have greaseable noses. What I run, always have. I grease them before every use.

I haven’t greased mine ever and after years of use the bar is worn enough that it needs replaced and the tip is fine.

 

[LD1]

I haven't greased the tip in years. There are two schools of thought; grease it often, or not at all.
If you don't grease, the B&C oil keeps it lubed. If you do grease, do it often. The grease forms a ring around the bearing, which prevents the oil from getting to it.

This is the answer right here.

 

[ArlyA]

We use saws in a more "professional" manner and go through bars. We wear them out or even bend them and never grease them. Glad to not have to. None are Husky.

 

[jb1390]

Greetings. I bought a new 20" Husq bar and chain for my 445 at Tractor Supply. Every other sprocket tip bar I've had for any chainsaw has had a small hole to lube the tip with grease. This new Husq bar doesn't have any hole. How do I lube this thing? Any ideas?
Thanks.
Nibbana

Most of the time I find that a bar nose fails because it's been pinched. The bent metal around the sprocket causes it to fail.

If you use high quality bar oil, some of it will make its way into that bearing. Not much, but it doesn't take much.

There's a school of thought that continually greasing the bar forces dirt and contaminates in along with grease, and after the initial greasing, you're better off not greasing.

I think you'll find plenty in both camps that "have never had a bar nose fail". I run bars between 12" and 42", and the bars I see with issues tend to be because of lack of oil (generally plugged oil passage in the bar, generally from a friend's saw), or damage of some kind from being bent or pinched. I have never applied grease after the initial, brand new greasing.

It is far more important to pay attention to whether the saw is oiling - hold the bar tip just away from something (tree bark, etc), and run the saw at full throttle. You'll see a stripe of bar oil be sprayed on to it. I always do this after messing with a bar, to ensure it is lubricating properly and not clogged.