How to level front end loader arms

[TxFig]

The arms on my John Deere (model 3032) front end loader (model D) are not level; the left side is slightly higher than the right side. This makes it hard to use the front end load to level, as well as using the fork lift attachment effectively.

Is there a youtube video out there that shows how to adjust the left/right level of the arms?


And yes, the tires are properly inflated...

 

[old and tired]

this might help...

 

[TxFig]

Just talks about how he made mistakes - not how to fix the problem.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I had the same problem on my 430 loader. You just need to do some heavy digging on the side that's higher and tweak the loader frame back to where it's level again. That is all it took to get mine back to where I was happy with the level.

 

[jmc]

There's a long thread, probably in the Rural King forum, about a rash of buckets that didn't sit flat. IIRC, the solution was loosening the bolts holding the loader to the frame, seating the loader bucket flat on the ground, and retightening the bolts.

Edit: Loader - Unlevel bucket

 

[oosik]

That begs the question. Are the FEL arms tweaked or has the FEL been attached to the tractor incorrectly.

 

[Jstpssng]

That begs the question. Are the FEL arms tweaked or has the FEL been attached to the tractor incorrectly.

I perused the RK thread linked above, but didn't actually read the entire 3 pages. Yet that is what the discussion was about.

 

[ovrszd]

I had the same problem on my 430 loader. You just need to do some heavy digging on the side that's higher and tweak the loader frame back to where it's level again. That is all it took to get mine back to where I was happy with the level.

Good stuff.

I've "straightened" my FEL several times using this method.

Last time mine got tweaked it was when doing some hard digging with the tooth bucket. So hard that one side of the SSQA let go. I've not been able to get it flat since. Left side is always a bit low.....

 

[ovrszd]

That begs the question. Are the FEL arms tweaked or has the FEL been attached to the tractor incorrectly.

Good point.

In rereading the OP's post I cannot say for sure.

 

[repete]

Do nothing until you put your tractor on a level slab and study WHY it is crooked. I found out the two 11.2 x 24 tires on the rear of my tractor were different manufacturers and different diameters. One sat 3" higher than the other and that translated to an unlevel bucket.

 

[gstrom99]

One sat 3" higher than the other.

3" taller? WOW!

 

[beowulf]

Do nothing until you put your tractor on a level slab and study WHY it is crooked. I found out the two 11.2 x 24 tires on the rear of my tractor were different manufacturers and different diameters. One sat 3" higher than the other and that translated to an unlevel bucket.

Good advice. Always check the simple things first.

 

[repete]

3" taller? WOW!

It wasn't until I looked at it from behind on the shop floor. I was like WOW as well. I tried to find a site that told me what the "specs" for tire sizes was but could find nothing as a universal specification for each size. It was like they just changed the size on the mold for another size tire but I cannot tell which one is actually correct...

 

[rScotty]

It wasn't until I looked at it from behind on the shop floor. I was like WOW as well. I tried to find a site that told me what the "specs" for tire sizes was but could find nothing as a universal specification for each size. It was like they just changed the size on the mold for another size tire but I cannot tell which one is actually correct...

Most of the tire manufacturers have that spec in their tire catalogues but not in their sales materials.
There are several specs you can use. Overall Diameter and Static Loaded Radius are both useful for height comparisons when the tractor is sitting still. If it is moving, you want to match the "rolling circumference".
Here's a tire I picked at random from a tire catalogue.
rScotty

 

[repete]

I was looking more for an industry wide standard for a particular size tire. With my 11.2 24 rears, one or the other is right but which one is
'right"?

 

[LD1]

There is no simple answer to relevel, because there are many things that can cause it.

So you must first identify the cause, and the degree of unevenness. Only then can a plan be made to remedy the problem.

Giving advise to loosen bolts and tweak mounts is foolish if it's tire size/pressure issue, or if something is bent.

And giving advise to bend something to straighten it is foolish if it's a slight mounting misalignment or tire issue.

 

[rScotty]

I was looking more for an industry wide standard for a particular size tire. With my 11.2 24 rears, one or the other is right but which one is
'right"?

Both of your tires are "right". The specs that I attached to message #14 are TIRE specs.
The specs you are quoting as 11.2x24 are for the WHEEL that tire goes ojn. .

All 11.2 x 24 tires will have those same exact measurements. They are industry wide standard measurements for the size of wheel that tire was made to be mounted on.

In inches, the 11.2 measurement is the distance between the beads - i.e. the inner mounting surface of the wheel. The 24" is the wheel diameter measured either at the nominal or the outer edge of the bead mounting surface....I'm not sure which is used... probably the outer edge.

rScotty

 

[pmsmechanic]

Interesting points made here. I had 2 new front tires from the same manufacturer that were two different heights. Both were marked 26 x 12 x 12 but one was about 28 x 10 x 12.

 

[rScotty]

Interesting points made here. I had 2 new front tires from the same manufacturer that were two different heights. Both were marked 26 x 12 x 12 but one was about 28 x 10 x 12.

That's right. Two tires can be marked exactly the same size, but if they have a different number of plies, or a different orientation to the plies, or are made from a different rubber compound ..... Any of those things can make them have a different loaded radius and rolling circumference. So when they are mounted and carrying weight each will be a different shape and height.

rScotty

 

[repete]

Both of your tires are "right". The specs that I attached to message #14 are TIRE specs.
The specs you are quoting as 11.2x24 are for the WHEEL that tire goes ojn. .

All 11.2 x 24 tires will have those same exact measurements. They are industry wide standard measurements for the size of wheel that tire was made to be mounted on.

In inches, the 11.2 measurement is the distance between the beads - i.e. the inner mounting surface of the wheel. The 24" is the wheel diameter measured either at the nominal or the outer edge of the bead mounting surface....I'm not sure which is used... probably the outer edge.

rScotty

Then why would they only print on the tire sidewall the size of 11.2 x 24 and not the actual tire size? What is the size I run on my L2550DT when the Kubota manual says tire size is 11.2x 24? Seems strange that they can make whatever size they feel like and call it 11.2 x 24 because it fits the rim.
So a better sizing by Kubota would be an 11.2 x 24 with a tire circumference of XXX inches so you match front to rear axle ratio of a 4WD.