how to build your own custom backhoe subframe

[dfkrug]

My thought was to add a bracket to both sides of were the rops attaches to the axle then weld a plate to the bottom of the brackets or weld the square tube directly to the brackets under the axle.

There are a lot of ways to do this and the ROPS bracket is an excellent way to go. Doing a mockup with the hoe parked on level ground as close to the tractor as possible and at the desired height will help you with the best bracket fab you can do. Using the drawbar bracket, or the threaded holes it mounts to is also a good place to attach your subframe.

I do not use my drawbar or my 3-pt, so detaching them made sense for my Kioti. If you want to go back-and-forth to your 3-pt or drawbar, that will affect your strategy with respect to removing them, or making a subframe that allows them to stay on the tractor.

As to the Woods subframe posted by JAYYK42 above, I bought and installed one many years ago on a Kubota L2550DT, and it stuck out so far that it adversely affected its usability on non-flat ground (poor departure angle). I am glad I did it so I have exposure to that one-size-fits-all approach.

 

[jayyk42]

Great info guys! I have yet to start the subframe yet as many other projects took precedence over this but I have used the hoe a few times connected with the 3pt. Works damn good but I can see why a subframe should really be the ONLY way these should be connected. When I start the project I am most likely going to use the Deere subframe I bought as the base. In my searching I also picked up a whole New Holland Workhorse subframe kit that I thought (at the time) might work. It actually is pretty close with minor changes making it fit when I mocked it up. I just don't like how low the frame makes the hoe sit. Also this New Holland Workhorse tractor kit utilizes the drawbar in the back braket. Seems the Workhorse uses a narrower drawbar than my 1720.

You guys should see the drastic difference between the New Holland Workhorse subframe kit and the John Deere subframe. The Workhorse kit is made like a brick shithouse! Heavy, thick, and strong opposed to the Deere which is much much lighter duty.

 

[Deleted member 216442]

Most are probably that way, but on most JDs, the subframes don't touch
at all. Of course, putting a hoe on a tractor with no loader at all (or
no front weights) is a mistake, esp with small tractors. All that weight
in the rear with no counter balance up front makes the steering control
very dicey. I have tried it.

Anyway, here is another JD example...this time a very common 770 with
a brand new JD7 mounted to an undermount ladder-style subframe. An
enhanced toplink with a brace is used. The QA mechanism and cross-
brace (rung) in under the tractor ahead of the axles.

Interesting. My JD1070 with the 8B backhoe does not use a top link connection but otherwise looks quite similar to that JD7. Rear connections are pins on the hoe going into horizontal U openings in plates bolted to the tractor back end, and front has pins that are held captive by rotating plates with spring loaded pins that are quick disconnect. I generally take it off for the summer and put it back on in fall. I've used it hard over the years including installing about 1000' of sewer lines, 36" x 20' and smaller culverts, many hundreds of stumps removed, built a bridge and placed 40 tons of large rocks, trees taken out, etc. I put larger feet on the outriggers because the originals are too small and disappeared in mud and soft soil. No problems with lifting the back end of the tractor and walking it around rather than getting off the hoe seat and driving the tractor for each move. You can see its general frame if you ignore the other crap piled around it in these pics.

 

[jayyk42]

Interesting. My JD1070 with the 8B backhoe does not use a top link connection but otherwise looks quite similar to that JD7.

Thats the subframe i have which I will adapt to my Ford 1720. Great to see the pics of yours on how it is mounted to the hoe.

 

[moeh1]

OK I’m next…My son has a Kubota L2550 and found a great deal on a John Deere 7 backhoe with subframe and the tractor brackets. Hoping to put that little green hoe on the tractor. Anyone have pics, ideas, advice, line on a subframe from his series, etc. Oh yeah, he has a cab on the tractor so the hoe will be little farther back vs tight. Looking forward to a father son project.

 

[dfkrug]

OK I’m next…My son has a Kubota L2550 and found a great deal on a John Deere 7 backhoe with subframe and the tractor brackets.

The L2550DT was my first tractor.

The cab will add some issues, as you know. Lots of newer tractors put the fuel tank behind the seat, which makes for a similar problem re placement of the backhoe seat.

First thing is a test fit. Back the tractor over the hoe's existing subframe (with hoe attached) and jack it up under the rear end. Use the tractor's hydraulics with the hoe, if you have them plumbed up.

You are going to want the base of the hoe to be about a foot off the ground. It may have to be a bit higher if it sticks far out back.

 

[LouNY]

I am impressed with how the Kioti's sub frame works, easy on n off the tractor just a couple of saddles and pins.

 

[moeh1]

The L2550DT was my first tractor.

The cab will add some issues, as you know. Lots of newer tractors put the fuel tank behind the seat, which makes for a similar problem re placement of the backhoe seat.

First thing is a test fit. Back the tractor over the hoe's existing subframe (with hoe attached) and jack it up under the rear end. Use the tractor's hydraulics with the hoe, if you have them plumbed up.

You are going to want the base of the hoe to be about a foot off the ground. It may have to be a bit higher if it sticks far out back.

Thanks for the tips. It came with a diy hefty subframe for a front mount snowblower. We are thinking about turning that around and marrying it with the JD frame to get where we need to be. I am looking hard at where the 3 pt arms mount as a back attachment point. It either those or some bracket off of the Cab (rops) mounts. Yeah I know about the rear tank issues, I have a B2150….thought about a hoe for years but didn’t want to break it.

 

[manytoyman]

OK - I'm up next How about a sub frame for a B2400? The front connection is easy as the FEL is already there with several attachment options. The rear is where I am stuck noodling. I "think" the woods sub frame 1020800 utilizes four tapped holes on the end of the axel housing on each side. See attached pic. I'm assuming this is an acceptable method as I doubt they would have used them otherwise. Also, the ROPS connection looks to be beefy enough to handle a small hoe but it's not very wide so I would need to design something to bolt on to it to widen it up. See attached pic.

I could try to locate the OEM sub frame B4681 but its' really more like a frame enhancer as it does not attach to a hoe itself but rather ends at the axel housing. It is my understanding that the OEM setup back in the day these were made was to use the B4672 backhoe (3 point), B4681 sub frame, and heavy duty top link bracket. One thought I had was to make my own subframe that would mount up to the more current BT603 hoe as I see them a lot for sale used pretty reasonably priced (stop laughing at the size of it). I have only seen 1 B4672 and it was months ago.

Thoughts on this one??? Thanks! Jim

 

[manytoyman]

And here is a the diagram for the previously mentioned woods sub frame for the B2400. Not sure what 37 and 38 are as they might be some sort of extra support that bolts to the axel housing as well? I can understand 37s placement as next to the housing that would stick through the hole, and I would assume 38 does the same thing on the other side but it's not clear. None the less it does show that they use those holes on the end of the axel housing.