farmer2009
Elite Member
Once you have it dug up next to the house enough to determine direction then probe for it. Allow a little fall for flow but every 5 feet you should be able to find the line. As you will know about how deep to probe.
Household Septic System
- Thread starter jlgurr
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Once you have it dug up next to the house enough to determine direction then probe for it. Allow a little fall for flow but every 5 feet you should be able to find the line. As you will know about how deep to probe.
OP
jlgurr
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If anyone is still watching and curious about progress....
Located the 3" drain from the basement. Dug a hole about six inches out from the wall and 20" deep to top of the drain line. 15 feet out from there is that flat rock in my original picture. So technically that would mark the drain pipe entry to the tank. Started digging there to locate the same drain line. Expecting it to have a few inches of drop from the house so the hole will be a few inches deeper before I strike the drain. How far below the top of the tank would the drain enter? in other words, if the drain is 24" below grade, how far below would be the top of the tank? seems like it wouldn't be more than 18" deep at that point. Almost there...
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jlgurr
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After what I learned today, I'm suspecting that 15 feet from the house is already long past the outside edge of the 4' wide tank. That would be why I didn't find it in those 42" deep holes I dug earlier this week. A-Ha!
vtsnowedin
Elite Member
Inlet pipe will come in just under the top of the tank so just under the four inch thickness +/- of the tank top. The outlet pipe is a couple of inches lower to allow the flush to fall freely into the tank.
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jlgurr
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Got it! Hit the tank top at 13" deep about 8' from the house. So that's why we couldn't find outside of the 15' on the sketch. The tank top is approximately 5" higher than the drain line at the house.
Now to find the flippin' lid...
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dave1949
Super Star Member
Ta Da! Congrats. Finding the drain line was a good first step.
A concrete riser on the lid is a good thing. You could grade around it so it ends up flush with the ground, mow over it except for the handles maybe, won't stick out like a sore thumb. You should be able to buy a riser where they make and sell the tanks.
My tank has one central pumping lid and smaller access lids at the entrance and exit. I put a riser on the center lid and cut 3/4" pvc conduit pieces to stand vertical and flush with the ground on top of the other two for markers that don't rust or rot. Back-filled with stone dust makes easy digging for the entrance and exit hole lids.
A concrete riser on the lid is a good thing. You could grade around it so it ends up flush with the ground, mow over it except for the handles maybe, won't stick out like a sore thumb. You should be able to buy a riser where they make and sell the tanks.
My tank has one central pumping lid and smaller access lids at the entrance and exit. I put a riser on the center lid and cut 3/4" pvc conduit pieces to stand vertical and flush with the ground on top of the other two for markers that don't rust or rot. Back-filled with stone dust makes easy digging for the entrance and exit hole lids.
GPintheMitten
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If you raise the lid close to the surface, then the soil covering it may be to shallow and dry to support lawn.
It's a trade off.
It's a trade off.
dave1949
Super Star Member
I wouldn't cover the lid, just make it even with the ground. I would gladly look at the lid in exchange for easy access anytime with no hunting or digging. It can be painted green.
vtsnowedin
Elite Member
My daughters new tank was installed with plastic covers that are flush with the lawn. have to remember to not mow over them and really remember to not drive the 5045E over them. Of course they are in the perfect place to drive a load of wood around to the walk out door. :thumbdown:
Glad you found yours.:cool2:
Glad you found yours.:cool2:
vtsnowedin
Elite Member
5" higher then the top of the drain line or 5" higher then the bottom of the drain line?
