Help IDing Troy Tiller

   / Help IDing Troy Tiller #11  


Good Idea
Does it come off in one piece once the handles are off? There are no springs or gears or anything else that can fall out while Im lifting this off?
Ill be using Spirex gear oil from Shell. Its what we use in all our machinery and seems to work good so far. Its yellow metal safe btw.
After this I will be pulling the head and cleaning up valves and chamber. Id rather rebuild than repower. I love that cast iron block.
thanks again

You have to remove the t bolt for the handle bars to put oil in it anyway so remove the 4 bolts on the cover nothing should come out you may have to remove the tine shield for the plate to clear, it’s been 20 years since I had mine off to check the brass bull gear and you should check all the gears while it’s open. I’ve had mine for 36 years and used it every year though my garden is getting smaller as I get older, belts and tines is about the biggest thing I’ve had to do to it.
 
   / Help IDing Troy Tiller #12  
That picture shows that your 'ol Horse is younger than mine. Mine is an '82 - 8 HP Horse. It still runs fine if you don't mind a rough ride - at times.
 
   / Help IDing Troy Tiller
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Took the cover off,not bad probably 30 minutes in total. This thing is built like a little tractor. Farm machinery philosophy when this thing was designed,simeple and easy to work on with simple tools and things fit back as they should. Inside the transmission was just old original gear oil. thick and black. quick work to clean out with a plastic spatula.
The tine gearbox is another story. I stuck a piece of 1/4 inch fuel line connected to the air compressor. It shot a whole lot of the same thick gear oil out the fill hole,probably not all but a few more oil changes should get it.

What do y'all thing of outboard gear case lube for the tine box?
similar worm gear and I have a gallon just sitting there.
 
   / Help IDing Troy Tiller #14  
The same gear oil you would put in a truck differential will work in the gear box. I would look online and download the manual for the tiller, I have done so and it is a wealth of info. Mine is from the late 70痴 with a 7 hp Koehler and worked like new. I put new tires and tines on mine when I rebuilt it.
 
   / Help IDing Troy Tiller #15  
Took the cover off,not bad probably 30 minutes in total. This thing is built like a little tractor. Farm machinery philosophy when this thing was designed,simeple and easy to work on with simple tools and things fit back as they should. Inside the transmission was just old original gear oil. thick and black. quick work to clean out with a plastic spatula.
The tine gearbox is another story. I stuck a piece of 1/4 inch fuel line connected to the air compressor. It shot a whole lot of the same thick gear oil out the fill hole,probably not all but a few more oil changes should get it.

What do y'all thing of outboard gear case lube for the tine box?
similar worm gear and I have a gallon just sitting there.

I don’t know about the separate tine gearbox, yours is newer than mine, the oil in mine flows from the main gearbox back to the tine gears. The outboard lube might be too thin when hot, outboard gearbox is in the water dissipating heat to the water. I would put the same oil in both that is safe for brass.
 
   / Help IDing Troy Tiller #16  
I use either 85-140 , or 140 weight in mine. The heaver weight stays in better.--thin stuff gets past the seals. thanks; sonny580
 
   / Help IDing Troy Tiller #17  
If you are not using it in cold weather use the heavier oil as it is less mess
 
   / Help IDing Troy Tiller
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Ok 140 it is but what I took out was sooooo thick Im sure it used 2 HP just to move and spin those tines. It was like bunker C. I might go 90 as I am in the northern lattitudes. 85 degrees is hot here.
 
   / Help IDing Troy Tiller #19  
85w-140 oil is put in at the factory, this covers north to south climates.
 
   / Help IDing Troy Tiller
  • Thread Starter
#20  
Well after an exhaustive search I couldn't find ANY GL4 140 wt gear oil.
I did find a buffered sulfur GL5 that is safe for yellow metal. Look for Shell 85-140 gear oil. I contacted Shell and they assured me it was safe. So here goes.

This cast iron block K181 runs amazing! After its warm it will just chug and idle very low. Its running a little lean but Id rather not mess it right now.
Now Im waiting for warmer weather to dry things up.
Thanks for all the help.
 
 
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