Help IDing Troy Tiller

/ Help IDing Troy Tiller #21  
Glad you got the oil situation rectified, one note to check the tines, I replaced mine last year and it made a big difference, if the tines are pointed on the end they need replacing. I paid the extra and got the two hole, not the three hole tines FYI.
 
/ Help IDing Troy Tiller
  • Thread Starter
#22  
The tines are great! Ill post up some pics when I get back home. I dont think it was used very much.
 
/ Help IDing Troy Tiller #23  
Just in case you need something, Veseys in York, PE stock a lot of parts for the Horse. Was looking at a brand new Horse this week and while overall similar to the old ones, the vintage machines look more robust. Mine is an early 80’s machine that will outlast me. Had it running this week, turning over the garden.
 
/ Help IDing Troy Tiller #24  
Horse I manual says clearly: "Do not use GL5 oil"

It should be filled with SAE 140 or 90 GL4 oil.

The newer models are filled with 85W - 140 GL4 oil.
 
/ Help IDing Troy Tiller #25  
Well after an exhaustive search I couldn't find ANY GL4 140 wt gear oil.
I did find a buffered sulfur GL5 that is safe for yellow metal. Look for Shell 85-140 gear oil. I contacted Shell and they assured me it was safe. So here goes.

This cast iron block K181 runs amazing! After its warm it will just chug and idle very low. Its running a little lean but Id rather not mess it right now.
Now Im waiting for warmer weather to dry things up.
Thanks for all the help.



Just bought some for my 1976 Horse I last week - you can find 140 GL4 here for $19.99 per gallon!

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/...l---140w-20063/587d6374459f?q=Gear+Oil+-+140W
 

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