tjkubota93
Veteran Member
If both hoses are tight with the engine running at operating temp, the thermostat is stuck.
Help diagnose overheating MF SCUT
- Thread starter hillfarm
- Start date
- Views: 10929
mercdv
Silver Member
Check your thermostat, sounds like it is bad. If the thermostat is functioning okay, then try to do a flush on the coolant system. When doing the flush look to see if the coolant is draining too slow or if it doesn't drain completely. Those two things could be a sign of a clog in the system but I'm betting the thermostat is bad.
radios1
Elite Member
both hoses are going to be tight even on a properly working engine, because of the pressure with the radiator cap on.. one hose tight, and another soft is a big problem!..
For the first one, you would leave the radiator cap off and run the engine until it gets hot (normal operating temp ~ 190ish), which would take about an hour. When the thermostat opens, the water will circulate if the pump is doing its job.
If you were at operating temp and could easily squeeze the upper and lower hose, something is wrong. Most likely culprit is the thermostat. Has the radiator fluid ever been changed?
The thermostat is located where the top hose goes into the motor, probably held on with just two bolts. If you want, add a picture or two and we can point it out.
ch1ch2
Veteran Member
In the OP, you say it over heats when running a belly mower or a brush hog. You do not say where you are located. What the outside air temp is, or what the load is on the equipment.
Here in Texas it can be to hot to mow if I am cutting high grass with my belly mower of even shredding a field if the I am going too fast.
Here in Texas it can be to hot to mow if I am cutting high grass with my belly mower of even shredding a field if the I am going too fast.
Closing the loop here. I'm pleased and a little embarrassed to report that cleaning the radiator has apparently solved my problem. I thoroughly cleaned the fins of the radiator that were behind the filter (which I had cleaned). Glad to have saved substantial dollars. Thanks to ch1ch2 and to everyone who offered advice. You all are great.
radios1
Elite Member
That's Great, if you see any black paint coming off, touch it up with spray paint. the black paint helps it to radiate the heat by a good bit..
Texasmark
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 24, 2012
- Messages
- 3,766
- Location
- N. Texas
- Tractor
- Ford: '88 3910 Series II, '80 3600, '65 3000; '07 6530C Branson with FEL, 2020 LS MT225S. Case-IH 395 and 895 with cab. All Diesels
Good answers and things to check. Non contact Infrared thermometer (guns) are becoming common place...like HF has on occasion lowered the price for theirs to $20 where I paid 30 and years ago 40 for theirs.
Go around the engine and check temps. Go to the radiator and measure the top tank and the bottom tank.
I just recently put a 188F stat in my 3910. On the side of the engine, just behind a shield (blocked fan air), just behind the stat location (top front of head) I got readings in mid 180's like I'd expect.
Oil pan was in the 160's, as was the lower block area and the valve area was in the 170's, exhaust manifold was about 550.
------------------
Water in the top radiator tank was in the 170's and at the bottom tank temp was 105ish telling me the radiator was functioning properly.
On the radiator temps: The two readings of the tanks (differential) said:
The fins were allowing cooling air to circulate properly, not clogged with debris.
The fins weren't corroded inside allowing the coolant to flow properly.
The fan belt was tight enough causing the water pump to pump adequate water, the fan was sucking adequate air through the radiator fins, and......
The theremostat was opening at the correct temperature........neat. Took all of 15 seconds to learn all that from two shots of the radiator with the gun. Wink!
I had been running the tractor hard so everything had time to heat up to a stable temperature
Go around the engine and check temps. Go to the radiator and measure the top tank and the bottom tank.
I just recently put a 188F stat in my 3910. On the side of the engine, just behind a shield (blocked fan air), just behind the stat location (top front of head) I got readings in mid 180's like I'd expect.
Oil pan was in the 160's, as was the lower block area and the valve area was in the 170's, exhaust manifold was about 550.
------------------
Water in the top radiator tank was in the 170's and at the bottom tank temp was 105ish telling me the radiator was functioning properly.
On the radiator temps: The two readings of the tanks (differential) said:
The fins were allowing cooling air to circulate properly, not clogged with debris.
The fins weren't corroded inside allowing the coolant to flow properly.
The fan belt was tight enough causing the water pump to pump adequate water, the fan was sucking adequate air through the radiator fins, and......
The theremostat was opening at the correct temperature........neat. Took all of 15 seconds to learn all that from two shots of the radiator with the gun. Wink!
I had been running the tractor hard so everything had time to heat up to a stable temperature
mercdv
Silver Member
No need to be embarrassed at all. Sometimes it is the little things that get overlooked and most of us are glad that it turns out to be those things instead of you having to open up the wallet. The answers start to get more complicated as the thread goes on once we think you have checked the basics so I'm glad you went back and double checked the fins. No harm, no foul.
