help broke zerk fitting

[stratton]

Hey guys i just notices that i am missing a grease fitting on my auger. I called the sales rep and they told me that its a screw in fitting. I tried to replace it but it must be a press on fitting. The other zerk fitting seems to be a press on. It will spin but not unscrew. Any idea on how to take off the auger so i can bring it to the dealer. its on a bx2750d snowblower attachment. I took the outer bolts off but i think i need to undo the gearbox, which i am hesitant too.

 

[leonz]

About your snow blower,

you dont need to remove the auger to change a grease fitting on the end bearings.
Please, please, please!? tell me you are referring to the end bearing(s) of the cross auger????????,
is the grease fitting for the bearing inside the auger housing itself or outside?????????

The open end bearing should have a threaded fitting for the grease fitting;
If they have graduated to a push in fitting that tells me something about the quality of their build.


Your auger should have two or three set screws on the shaft end portion that fits in the open bearing
on the side of the auger housing to lock each half in place.

You will have the same thing on the opposite side and those will also have to be loosened to allow
you to remove the auger halves.




BUUUUUTTTTTT you should never have to remove the auger to change a fitting if it is broken.
All you need is a very small easy out fitting to remove it.


Buuuuuutttttt if they are using bearings with press in grease fittings................. woe is me:ashamed:

I just hope your engine timing is not advanced by 8 degrees at T.D.C.,
and they tell you there is nothing they can do about the rough idle and
vibration problem at low idle when it belches smoke.

 

[stratton]

The fitting is midshaft of the auger. It must be pressed in because there is no room for it to be below the auger tube, or it would hit the axle. I hope the picture helps. This picture is obviously the one that isnt broken.

[/IMG]

 

[KennyV]

Drill it out ... tap threads install a new one done... KennyV

 

[BigD23]

Drill it out ... tap threads install a new one done... KennyV

I agree :thumbsup:

 

[Toyboy]

Well guys, the OP says the broken part spins. That being the case it'll be tough to drill it out. He may have to remove the auger after all.

My mistake, after re-reading the post it's not broken off. Drill & tap is the best option. But it would be easier to do it w/auger off.

 

[leonz]

The fitting is midshaft of the auger. It must be pressed in because there is no room for it to be below the auger tube, or it would hit the axle. I hope the picture helps. This picture is obviously the one that isnt broken.

[/IMG]

UGHHHHH!!!!!!!


Yowieee!!! holy snowman Batman!!!!

It is time to remove both the augers and do some major surgery!!!!


Drill and tap them out and have a pipe nipple collar welded around the fitting large enough to allow the use of a deep well socket to remove it.

Or IF you have the time and the patience:

You can purchase 2 pieces of hollow bar stock(one for each fitting) the same size inside diameter and 2 inches long of the auger tube - which is the outside diameter of the auger tube and have a hole drilled in the bar stock for both fittings in one pass of the drill bit to protect the new grease fitting by making it a counter sunk grease fitting and as it will be below the thickness of the bar stock it will be protected at all times.

When the drilling is done you can cut the bar stock down the middle and weld the halves over the new grease fitting after it is installed.

The reason they used a pressed grease fitting is because the auger tube steel thickness is to thin to pass threads as a rule in machining assembly UUUGGGHH!!!

UUUUGGGGHHHHHH!!:thumbsup::drool:

 

[stratton]

I just talked to the dealer again. tapping a hole inst really an option unless i take off the auger by disassembling the gearbox. A tapping die is tapered, there inst enough room between the axle and auger shaft for this. And he advised me not to take apart the gearbox. He said to just try to snug down a 1/4-28 fitting. But there is no way its that big. Maybe 1/8" hole. either way it will leave the fitting up way to high. And only have maybe 1 or 2 threads holding. If i try and snug it down i can see it binding on the axle and either snap off again or it will be to tight to let grease flow. 25,000 bucks and no real answer to a problem. And to think i was teetering on john-deer before i bought this kubota!!!!!

 

[tommu56]

Just drill it out carefully and get another drive in fitting and tap it in (with the tool preferably) with a hammer

tom

 

[stratton]

Just drill it out carefully and get another drive in fitting and tap it in (with the tool preferably) with a hammer

tom

Drive in fitting??? I like the idea of that. didnt know they had such a thing. and i also like the idea of welding on an extra metal seat for the fitting. I couldn't come up with that idea. This seems to best way to go to avoid any future problems. Thanks guys.

 

[leonz]

You would have the same issue with a JD blower as they are both made by RAD

WHY would they tell you ou have to remove the gearbox when the auger halves are
slid into place one at a time when its assembled?????


If the auger tube is hollow you should be able to drill a hole in another location
for a new fitting and simply pump the hollow cavity full of grease and be done with it.

I would check to see if the tube is hollow which it most likely is and simply drill and tap for a
new fitting and just fill it with grease as the grease will travel every where for you and there
will be no issues of a dry stub shaft entering the gearbox bevel gear case splined or hex bore.


My 500 pound canary is saying cheap, cheap, cheap!!!!

 

[dfkrug]

Drive in fitting??? I like the idea of that. didnt know they had such a thing. and i also like the idea of welding on an extra metal seat for the fitting.

Tough problem.

I tried the press-in zerks years ago when I built my CADDigger. Big
mistake. Just the pressure from the grease gun can push them out. There
is a reason why they are rare.

I break threaded zerks all the time, so I keep an easy-out tool handy to
remove the broken fragment.

If you are willing to weld on a bushing for the the new zerk, use a threaded
zerk and bushing. I would still be concerned about cooking the shaft
inside.....

 

[tommu56]

here is one link

Alemite Grease Fittings

 

[tcreeley]

I've broken off grease fittings on my mini backhoe. When I can't seat another fitting - I use a needle tip on my hand grease gun. The needle tip is tapered something like an ice cream cone with the tip broken off (like when the cone leaks). It fills the hole all around and I can pump in the grease - works fine. If the fitting is lose- you can probably lever it off with pliers or cut it off part way with a cold chisel and hammer -then lever it out.

 

[stratton]

That's a good idea where did you get the needle fitting.

 

[like2wheel]

Just go to your local NAPA store

 

[KennyV]

That's a good idea where did you get the needle fitting.

Here are a few types...
Adapters, Extensions and Injector Needles - Alemite

 

[Jeff Lary]

Set over 1 or 2 inchs and drill and tap a new hole screw in a fitting and done.

 

[KennyV]

Set over 1 or 2 inchs and drill and tap a new hole screw in a fitting and done.

An obvious & easy solution ... KennyV

 

[stratton]

No room for the threads, The auger tube is thin metal, plus there is a solid axle inside of that. The only way to replace a zerk would be to weld some thicker metal onto the auger tube and then drill and tap that. Which i may do over the summer. for now i am going to try the rubber grease fitting and hope i can apply enough pressure to force the grease through out the axle.