Hey I'm looking at buying a ford 1700 86-87 has a bucket on front the guy says after it runs for a bit it will quit lifting but does lift for first 10-15 minutes am I getting into more trouble than it's worth or do you think it could be the filter kinda weird that I lifts for lil bit that would seem like the pump was good idk don't know anything about them please help
rScotty
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The Ford 1700 was made up until 1982. You can look up basic info on any tractor ever made on TractorData.com. Yes, they were and still are real nice tractors.
As to the loader lift, it could be anything at this point. I think you should definitely confirm for yourself that it does work and then quits as the seller says.
That way you can also check that the three point lift arms work and then don't.....i.e. if it is something simple like a filter or air leak, then the three point arms should also work and then fail the same way at about the same time. You should also feel some lesser changes at that same time in the way that the optional power steering works..... if that was fitted. Most of those Fords that had loaders also got the optional power steering, but not all.
Those Fords used a simple series hydraulic circuit similar to most compact tractors then and now.
They do have a cleanable filter inside the sump accessible under a cover which is often overlooked.
If the tractor works well otherwise, and only the hydraulics don't work right, fixing hydraulics should be something within the ability of the average home mechanic. It is much easier than engine or drivetrain work. Still, I would allow $500 to $1000 just in case. The filters, any hoses, and changing out the special trans/hydraulic oil will cost a couple of hundred of that at least.
There are several old time members here on TBN with good expertise on that type hydraulic system.
So you will have plenty of good advice....
I am always suspicious when something doesn't work. If it really is so simple, it makes me wonder why the seller hasn't fixed it himself. I'm not shy about asking that question, either.
The most basic test I use when looking at a used diesel of any kind, is I want to see for myself that it starts right up when the engine is cold. If not, I just cross it off the list and walk away.
Luck,
rScotty
As to the loader lift, it could be anything at this point. I think you should definitely confirm for yourself that it does work and then quits as the seller says.
That way you can also check that the three point lift arms work and then don't.....i.e. if it is something simple like a filter or air leak, then the three point arms should also work and then fail the same way at about the same time. You should also feel some lesser changes at that same time in the way that the optional power steering works..... if that was fitted. Most of those Fords that had loaders also got the optional power steering, but not all.
Those Fords used a simple series hydraulic circuit similar to most compact tractors then and now.
They do have a cleanable filter inside the sump accessible under a cover which is often overlooked.
If the tractor works well otherwise, and only the hydraulics don't work right, fixing hydraulics should be something within the ability of the average home mechanic. It is much easier than engine or drivetrain work. Still, I would allow $500 to $1000 just in case. The filters, any hoses, and changing out the special trans/hydraulic oil will cost a couple of hundred of that at least.
There are several old time members here on TBN with good expertise on that type hydraulic system.
So you will have plenty of good advice....
I am always suspicious when something doesn't work. If it really is so simple, it makes me wonder why the seller hasn't fixed it himself. I'm not shy about asking that question, either.
The most basic test I use when looking at a used diesel of any kind, is I want to see for myself that it starts right up when the engine is cold. If not, I just cross it off the list and walk away.
Luck,
rScotty
Thank you I will check this afternoon he did tell me that he could raise both an then 10-15 later back would drop an neither would lift an stopped working but yea I'm going back this afternoon an will run an see what if does is there anything else I need to look or listen for thank you so much for your time
scootr
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I'm just thinking out loud, the only change I can think of from the cold start to 10-15 minutes later is the temperature of the hydraulic oil. If it works with thicker oil and not with thinner oil then I would suspect Pump, cylinders, and such... But IDK this for fact.
rScotty
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Good idea. Just for a quick check, there should be a dipstick for the common transmission & hydraulic fluid sump. It is usually on the hump between your feet. Check that dipstick - or if missing, use a clean stick to get a sample of that oily fluid. Normally the fluid will be clear like new motor oil. If it looks like milk instead of oil, that is water intrusion - which is suprisingly common in old tractors. If it has the color of new oil but has lots of tiny bubbles - so many that you can't see through the fluid - then that is a suction air leak. All of these are easy to fix.
When the loader & 3pt quit working, the hydraulic pump might start making a noise. Listen carefully to that pump and see if it is rattling or squealing .... or nothing.
Also check the oil in the motor. One way that a hydraulic system will fail is that the hydraulic pump seal will get so old it will allow hydraulic fluid into the motor oil. If you see that the oil in the motor is way over the full mark by an inch or more that might be what is happening. The hydraulic would then be starving for oil. Eventually that extra oil in the engine will be blown out the breather and/or the exhaust and make a mess.
Consider posting some photos here. That will draw more opinions.
rScotty
Hey wanted to give you an up date we went today to crank it started right up three point raised right up an bucket too they never dropped or shuttered let it run ten min an they held then drove around in the yard another ten min they never dropped the guy told me since the other day I showed him it was low on motor oil that he checked all fluids an had to add to hydraulics also when we turned it off I did what you said an checked the hydraulic fluid an it was milky I listened several times an the pump never made any noise so I'm hoping I can change fluid an clean filter an be ok Can I pour some deisel thru when I drain the fluid to make sure I get most of water or should I just drain
dodge man
Super Star Member
I’d just drain it. I’d then run it a few hours and change it again. Figure out how the water is getting in also.
rScotty
Super Member
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Maybe you found a deal. Sounds good so far.
A lot of guys use diesel or a light weight motor oil ....or a mixture of the two.... as a flushing oil. I would rather use a light viscosity high detergent modern motor oil - like a 10w-20. It can soak up some water - which diesel cannot do - and it won't hurt anything. Plus, it's cheap.
Don't forget to clean out the wire mesh filter in the bottom of the transmission sump. Plus a new spin-on if yours has that.
Usually the water gets in past the shift lever boots when it is left out in the rain. Very common. If you have it in the tranny, you also probably better look at your clear plastic fuel filter. You may see water there. It will be under the diesel. If so...and you ought to to do this anyway.....just scrap ALL the old diesel fuel, swab out the tank with a rag on a stick. And refill with known good diesel. It doesn't hurt to filter it going in. I buy diesel at the diesel pump where folks fill their new PUs & fancy diesel cars.
Oh, and if it has been in the rain, the other place that water gets to be a problem is the water runs down past the center nut of the steering wheel, down the steering tube, and ends up sitting on top of the seal for the steering box. That box should have oil in it, not water. There is supposed to be a weep hole just above the steering box for that very reason, but it is often clogged with dirt.
Luck,
rScotty
Thank you my friend I'll do that
